if possible, do visit the first page of this thread

otherwise, read on.

i can vouch for ducky brand but unfortunately, i'm not too sure about their latest range.

if you don't mind having no led backlight, then go for filco.

if you are a bit tight on budget (RM250-RM300), i'd recommend ducky zero.

any lower than that you might have to resort to 2nd hand keyboards or china boards (some of them are not cherry mx switch, but compatible/clone mx switch which some are pretty good and can stand toe to toe with cherry, sometimes better.)

I do read read several pages from start, except that i need feedback from experience user.
My budget around 450 max..
From that price view, for a new mkb what possible i might get and for 2nd mkb what the best i might get.
I dont mind about backlighting..I do need several extra programmable key as it assist me in work.

Hey guys i got a problem with my Ducky Shine 3. Please do refer to my image here : http://imgur.com/a/L43m5
The problem i got is that when i press FN+F9 , the F5 LED will light up while F1-F4 & F6-F8 didnt light up. At 1st only 17 LED r dead, i do the soldering but even more LED die. I dont even know why, probably because i got shocked a few time during soldering process? will this cause more led to die?

led are sensitive to heat. maybe the heat from the soldering process cause it.

while i'm sure razer, corsair and logitech has keyboards that has macro functions, i'm still putting the ability to change keycaps with standard layout keys as one of the priority in my recommendations.
there's keymapping software out there, such as AutoHotKey.
use this with any keyboard, you get yourself a keyboard with the ability to keymap or macro it.

you can't go wrong with filco if what you are looking for is quality.
HOWEVER, one downside about filco is the stabs they use, which is COSTAR stabs, which i'll explain briefly later.
otherwise the other best option would be ducky.
i have ducky shine 2 and filco majestouch 2 tkl, hopefully that makes my explanation slightly more reliable HAHA!

Pros of COSTAR stabs - Keypress feeling is very natural for the big modifier keys.
Cons of COSTAR stabs - Changing keycaps will take more time compared to CHERRY stabs, and sometimes have the risk of breaking the inserts (or losing it). So if you like to change keycaps often, you will get pissed off with COSTAR stabs.

Pros of CHERRY stabs - Changing keycaps is a breeze, won't risk losing any part of the stabs or breaking it.
Cons of CHERRY stabs - Keypress feeling can be mushy and annoying for the big modifier keys. HOWEVER, this can be fixed by doing leg clipping mod on the stabs (but this requires you to open up the keyboard and desolder some keys, if not all, to remove the stabilizers and mod it.)

shocked?u should check your soldering iron,been soldering for almost 10 years,never got shocked before while soldering

that doesn't look like a clean solder
also, when soldering LED, you must not "solder" it for too long (over 4 seconds on 300 degree) as what alpha001 mentions, heat will kill off the led.
best practice is solder one of the leg first, then proceed with other led before soldering the second leg, this is to give it time to cool off first before the 2nd burn.

if you desolder the led and then resolder it back, chances are some of the led might have died in the process since to desolder the factory solder requires high temp.

you can get new leds to replace the old ones or those which is not working, or just go to this link WTS Mechanical Keyboard & Accessories & Repair


EDIT:
eh, i baru nampak your statement saying that you kena shock a few times when soldering
sounds like electro static discharge to me.

1) you need to invest in a good soldering station with variable temperature and with ESD safe feature.
2) practice some soldering first before going in for the board.
3) i hope that you didn't connect your keyboard to your pc usb when soldering?


This post has been edited by justnits: Aug 11 2015, 02:55 PM

beginner's tip: always apply some soldering paste lightly on board before solder sucking or soldering, it helps the process so much better.

anyways. ur soldering some are too much lead. it ate some of the other lines. u need to redo some of it. also, you better google how to check if your led transistor is ok or not.

i didnt connect my pc usb while soldering. I think the electricity from the solder transmitted to the pcb then to me

Sure i'll look into that. Thank for the great explanation.

From what i understand :
1. Filco for quality
2. Ducky for backlit
3. Others were costly bcause of branding

IINM, majestouch 2 doesnt have numpad. Or does it come with full size?
Which one of your kb that you use most?

Majestouch 2 do have full layout (with Numpad) or TKL (tenkeyless) version.

partially true, but also because:-
1) they are using non-standard layout, thus causing difficulties in getting full keycaps replacement for it. but who knows, over time, things might change in the keycaps industries
2) some are using cheap switches

quovadis123 has already answer your question regarding whether filco comes in full size or not. yes they do come in full size.

hmm, how to say ah, i use them all quite equally?
my ducky shine 2 (also my first mkb back in 2013!) had gone through some major overhaul (change switch to gateron red, led, nonslip mat and spray mod) and it's still working wonderfully.
i'm using this in my main office.
my filco majestouch 2 mx blue just gone through some minor mods (spray and non-slip mat mod) and i'm using it in my 2nd office.
at my home i'm using nerd tkl.

NerD TKL ...

well from my testing. red linear and soft springs felt very comfortable. my only concern was, it may be too light.

cause i have a habit of light resting fingers on the keys at times. so on a linear soft switch like red, i could be pressing accidentally

so safer bet is mx brown for myself. besides i'm a fan of tactile feedback. cause from feel alone i can know it actuated without having to think about it. My muscle memory just registers the actuation from the tactile :}

for pure hardcore competitive gamers, they rather prioritize speed so forgo tactile for linear just for faster input without caring about tactile. thats understandable

it depends what type of typist you area :]

anyone wanna sell off their extra keycap puller?

Just got these in my mail today~~

HKP TROOPERS potato pic


This post has been edited by hairy9802: Aug 11 2015, 06:00 PM

wao so nice... ayam rike

It's a custom anyway, so the design is a little bit different.

haha call yourself lucky. I'm just helping out a friend who wants to get his first mkb. Must be around 300-350 and no backlighting. Haven't mention the type of switches yet. Oh god

yea,i told the guy at the shop to reserve that for me while i went to search other shop for more choices found a few limited edition yellow TKL Filco,but too bad,red switches,in the end have to go back to that shop to buy