It's an old time thing that still has its use, it involves filing passages near the valves to improve mixture flow, also ports where manifolds meet the head with be matched to avoid obscuring them, when done they're polished to further improve flow.

Sounds ghastly, if I had to I'd choose the C plate, at least I can remove it and return the car to normal when I get home.
Tweaking it in a press is a one way trip.
If rear suspension is important then a better choice is buying a car with a truly independent suspension.

I have lifestyle issues with tyres, along with almost all other things I buy I reject the idea of paying a premium for a brand label. This makes me almost a pariah here.
Tyre reviews around the world are also a minefield with mixed reviews on nearly everything, about all I would want is a quiet economical tyre but even gaining info about that is difficult, though the recent euro trye ratings seem a blessing, the Kumho KH27 has my interest right now but I'd prefer a more budget offering, though I suppose I'm at least a year away from going through the torture of purchasing.

Without looking it up I'm thinking sulphur level.

May I be off topic enough to ask how much cigarettes cost in Malaysia?
I'm not a smoker (else I'd likely be dead) so my limited ability to find what they cost here due to them being a product that has to be hidden in shops and not advertised anywhere has me thinking our price is about AU$200 for a carton of 200.

Curiousity, it seems they're also priced to discourage use there, or at least taxed hard to put money into government coffers.

It appears to be a clutch throwout bearing, and judging by the look of it a rather noisy annoying one.
I haven't come across a directly hydraulically operated one like this before, it seems quite a good idea but like everything you're at the mercy of the quality of suppliers, in this case the bearing maker.

A common issue with many cars is a suspect crankshaft position sensor, they fail when hot and are fine after cooling off.

To check it it's the issue carry some water and if the problem occurs pour water on the sensor to cool it, if the car then starts it'd be a fair bet that it should be replaced. They shouldn't be expensive but I'm not familiar enough yet to even know its location on a Campro engine. Many cars of all different makes suffer from this issue.

Well put David, what you say is quite a reality.
Years ago in my car industry days I was told of a chap whose engine was smoking excessively, so the workshop decided to fit a replacement engine, after that was fitted they found the auto transmission was no longer operating properly so they replaced that too. Then after much head scratching it was determined the real fault was a failed diaphragm in the vacuum modulator for the transmission, so the customer ended up copping a $3000+ bill over a $30 part, and the real tale was kept from him.
I have personally found a bad wire on a friend's fuel cut-off solenoid on his carburettor that a year earlier had cost him a fortune when a mechanic failed to diagnose it and did the simple thing by sending it off for a unneeded rebuild, jiggling the wire was all it took to decide the problem but remember tradesmen do tend to be better at lifting heavy things and smoking than most other pursuits.
I like to do all my own work.

I should add that a good tradesman is is like gold and should be treated with admirable respect, they're out there but finding them may take a little effort.

Thanks for the info, it appears common enough for a mortal like me to source without drama when needed. Heaps of Peugeot use them, while not common here there's way more of them than Proton.

I'm no alignment expert, I just have a general mistrust of shops that do it. Anyway I'm suspect about the caster on that sheet, I believe the outside wheel due to the general camber of the road should have a touch more caster than the inside wheel, that would be the LH wheel in countries that drive on the LHS of the road. This (I believe since I'm not an expert) counters the road camber effect leaving us with a lovely straight driving car. Most shops here, and I'd have to believe anywhere only bother with toe settings these days and I suspect fancy printouts must only be used to ease money from customer's pockets. I'd reckon without touching anything they could drive the car in again and get a whole new set of numbers.

People like him are gold. Chances are just replacing the bush should correct any problem.
The way it would work here is align the car, take the money and advise a bush is worn and should be replaced, then book in the replacement job and charge for another alignment to set the car back to where it was.

Quite a magical looking improvement, it claims to adjust timing to an optimum value, I would think any car maker would already have that programmed fairly correctly in conjunction with the knock sensor.
I can't help but feel a test of this type could be fairly easily fudged by running an ultra low octane blend for the stock run, and then using a dose steroid boosted super octane stuff for the after result.
Winding back the calibration knob on the machine would help too.

Price, it offered many features I liked yet was cheaper than anything else, it was seriously well priced, a GXR 1.6 CVT for AU$12,990 registered on the road, drive away.
Other factors were a very low pressure salesman, a nice high stance which makes entry and exit easier than the low riding buggies the more youthful desire, and once I opened the bonnet I could see an aging DIY chap like myself could handle and even enjoy keeping "Daisy" in shape, it's sort of like having a motorbike but with comfort. Having CVT was also a major factor, it will become the most common type in the near future, it's ALWAYS in the right gear and other types are constantly developing to emulate what a CVT does naturally.
Cheapest Camry $32k, cheapest Accord $33k, both larger than I was seeking.

I'm happy to say that jacking the front of mine is extra easy, I just push my trolley jack under the centre of the number plate until the pump handle touches, then just pull the jack back a couple of cm and pump. There's a support bar there that looks like it was made for my jack, and saves my aging body some effort.

Thanks for setting my mind into nightmare mode, I don't recall jacking it there but rather have just jacked on either side, now I'll be sure never to try it on a torsion beam, though it's something I'd do otherwise.
Oh dear looking at old pictures I think I have been guilty, Jimmy will have a look tomorrow
No wait, it may have been on my ramps.

This post has been edited by wankel: Apr 14 2015, 05:50 PM

Much of it indeed goes right over my head but it's not important.
I do get what the lass in the video was saying about things, my wife who's Philippine (married nearly two years now after my becoming widowed, she's my age so it's decent) talks of opening light switches, so the quirks are somewhat familiar to me.

Looks straight.


I may or may not have jacked Daisy up by the middle of the torsion bar, I can't remember, but it does look straight, perhaps Proton use good strong Malaysian steel in theirs? hopefully from iron exported from Australia.