Initial setup actually requires frequent cares and WC, because your plant takes time to adapt, if you dose fertz, they most likely going to feed algae instead of plant. And Amazonia soil is nutrient rich too, that's why you need WC almost alternate day for 1-2 weeks to clear excess nutrient from algae. When the plant is weak, algae will take over.

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Plant is called Monte Carlo. I got it from bro davido. Shop sells them but may contain pesticide. Growing slowly in my low tech aquarium

Not optimum without co2 but it's growing slowly. I think the filter is sufficient for now due to low bio load.

There are several reasons to use filtration for a planted aquarium. First, and probably most importantly, it provides water movement. Aquatic plants are able to take up nutrients much more efficiently in at least gently flowing water. Water movement also prevents suspended particles from landing on aquatic plant leaves where they can interfere with photosynthesis. Even if the flow is set low, it will keep particulates from settling on the substrate, so they can remain in circulation and be removed by the filter. Also, the water flow from your filtration system can power a carbon dioxide (CO2) supplementation system.

As we know, in addition to water movement, filters can provide mechanical, chemical and biological filtration. Which are of importance in a planted aquarium? Most people who keep fish in their aquariums want some mechanical filtration. Leftover fish food, fish wastes and dead plant materials all contribute to detritus in the planted aquarium. This can, of course, be handled with regular siphoning of the aquarium, but most people prefer a filter to help with the job.

Chemical filtration is rarely necessary in a well-managed planted aquarium, particularly after the initial set-up period. Still, it is nice if your filter has a chamber that can be used for chemical filtration should the need arise.

Biological filtration is the primary reason for filtration on a "tropical fish" aquarium. It is nitrifying bacterial filtration that makes a freshwater fish aquarium habitable in most cases. In a planted aquarium, things are different. Aquatic plants are "biological" filtration too! If the plants are growing well and the aquarium is properly stocked, plants are actually a better form of biological filtration than bacteria.

While bacteria are very good at converting ammonia (actually, ammonium) to nitrite and then to nitrate, there the process stops. They do nothing to reduce nitrate or phosphate levels in the planted aquarium, nor do they remove any other potentially harmful substances (like excess metals) from the water.

There is also an enormous amount of surface area for nitrifying bacteria to colonize in a planted aquarium, and the bacteria are competing for ammonium that the plants need for good growth. For these reasons, additional bacterial filtration is not a high priority.

While there are many different filters that can work adequately in a planted aquarium, my choice for aquariums between about 50 to 100 gallons is canister filters. For smaller aquariums I prefer appropriate outside power filters, preferably the types with adjustable flow rates that do not require specially made disposable filter media "cartridges." For very large aquariums, wet/dry filters are a viable option.

Fluidized bed filters are not a particularly good option for a planted aquarium. The purpose of these filters is almost entirely in the realm of bacterial filtration, an area that we want to minimize in a planted aquarium.

Wet/dry filters can drive off carbon dioxide unless they are tightly closed to hold carbon dioxide in. The pH increase is due to this loss of carbon dioxide. Most people running planted aquariums large enough to need wet/dry filtration will probably also find that their aquariums do better with a supplemental carbon dioxide system. This system should be in the return line from the filter to the aquarium to maintain the carbon dioxide levels and pH desired. While there are other reasons to avoid the use of fluidized bed filters in a planted aquarium, they are unlikely to drive off carbon dioxide.

It is certainly possible to run a successful planted aquarium without any filtration as long as the aquarium is stocked conservatively. For reasons already stated, however, water movement is beneficial. I would run at least a powerhead (more than one in a large aquarium). A powerhead fitted with a sponge filter is a good alternative in a planted aquarium. For maximum benefit, the sponge should be rinsed every few days so that it is working more in a mechanical capacity than as biological filtration.

You'd have to check your rock source to see if it will leach phosphate. But, with all the surface area available on the plants themselves, there is really no need for any extra area for the colonization of bacteria. Let the aquatic plants do their job!

Filters to be avoided in the planted aquarium include any that cause surface turbulence, which can drive off needed carbon dioxide. This includes air-driven filters, such as bubble-up corner filters, air-driven undergravel filters and filters that return water via a spray bar above the water surface.

If an undergravel filter is used, it is best run with slow-flow powerheads set low enough in the planted aquarium that they do not cause unnecessary surface turbulence. Undergravel filters have the added disadvantage that they limit substrate amendments to those that will not be kicked up into the water by the water flow through the substrate.

In spite of what I have said here about the "best" forms of filtration for a planted aquarium, please be aware that for every type of filter, there is probably someone, some place who is using it on a beautiful, healthy planted aquarium. If you own a filter that is not one of the "best" for a planted aquarium, there are almost always ways to either modify the filter or modify your maintenance routines to make the system work.

Any recommendations for algaecide that is effective at removing BBA algae? It doesn't need to be shrimp safe, as I will be removing the plants, rock, wood, etc and soak it overnight in a bucket. Then rinse and put back into the tank.

I have Excel too. I heard its effective against BBA for spot treatments. But I don't want to do spot treatments, but just soak it overnight. Anyone knows the dose if you use Excel in a 5 liter bucket?

Can Any one point out how to get rid of hair like algae?, its over taking my riccia, mini pelia, aquarium glass too..

prefer a natural method - getting something to eat them and shrimp safe.

thanks

Thanks all. Actually I'm looking for a quick and harmless fix for the plant. It grows only on my Buce (see pic) and my SAE is not doing its job. No Chlorox as it will weaken the plant, and no extended soaks (like 1 week) as that too will weaken the plant. Best thing I'm looking for is just to soak overnight and then next day just put back into the tank. The quantity is only a palmful.

So will probably use the Excel brush technique.

Also does anybody know what is that thing growing on the stone (the red arrows)? Is that mini pelia? I've been trying to get rid of it too as it will eventually cover the Buce leaves.

It does look like pelia/coral moss to me.

When was the last time you did your tank maintenance? 

Most effective and cheap method is - do a black out routine. First, clean all the hair algae as much as possible, do a WC, then cover it with black rubbish black, pitch black for 3 days, off CO2, filter continue to run, feed if needed, no need to dose fertz. After 3 days, do cleaning and WC,  turn the light on for 3 days (6-7 hours each day), turn on CO2, dose nutrient.

Depend on your tank, you can repeat this 2 - 3 times. The only side effect - some of your plants might not cope well and melt, but so far it works like magic to me. Black out is a process to starve algae, and usually plant's endurance without light is stronger than algae.

any supplier in jb?

Some updates for my rescaped 2ft tank.

I have got all the plants I wanted in the tank now, except I haven't decided which bucep to get yet. It will be planted on top right of the main wood.

I need to ensure I have not brought any pest snails from my previous tank, so I actually bleach my mosses according to davido's method. But I think I left it without light for too long, it was yellowish/browning when it first attached to the wood, but thankfully, I can see they're coming back to life with new growth. But, I still can see 1 or 2 snails almost everyday, to keep them under control, I find and destroy the snail whenever I can.

Water is a bit yellowish due to the wood and sand, pretty sure it will go away after 1-2 months. I can see diatoms everywhere, but it's normal for new tank, I believe it will go away once water is stable. Still doing manual clean up when I couldn't stand it.

All plants have started growing except crypts melted quite a few leaves, seems to be struggling. I have put some cherries shrimps, otto and a nerite snail. Need to get 2 or 3 more nerite snails as I found them very good at controlling green dust algae on glass and keep the glass clean. They did a great job in my nano tank, it was so clean that I don't need to brush the glass during WC (I hated that cleaning glass with toothbrush chore).

This tank is aiming to be low maintenance, medium light. So far, am quite happy with the overall result especially the anubias nana pettite. and can't wait for the mosses to recover 100%.



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Hi guys, i am planning to setup a new tank for small fishes. Due to space limitation i can only afford 45cm length tank size.

Is it recommended for such size? Coz i saw those at fish shop and eventho small they look nice.

I see. Wjat soil should i use?

i googled around and inded ada soil seems highly reviewed. How much they are selling?
Only fish.

What is the most effective way to kill off BBA? It has infected some of my hairgrasses.

Planning to get some amano shrimps this weekend to see if it works.

I've read some online too. The really foolproof way is to dose excel. However, the measurement must be correct or it'll affect your fishes and shrimps.

Do I need to drain the water before wiping it or can wipe it underwater?

Oh.. zero algae works for your BBA? Maybe I'm gonna try that as I have some other types of algae too...

Guess I have the liberty to play with the zero algae as my tank is without any fauna right now.