I noticed recently a lot of speed cars are actually braking with screw heads.

They set front and rear stabilizing poles really low and they screw the tiang from the bottom, leaving a minimum of 1mm or so for clearance of the screw head at the bottom. The problem is, the screw head will definitely 100% scrape the track at rainbow/banks.

Nobody feeling guilty about it eh? Because if it was semi-speed, cars often get the brakes checked properly to make sure that screws or flat screw heads remain inside the FRP holes.

AR paling best for speed race with rules of no potong and no sotong. Can play easily with MS.
So if you got the chance to enter no-potong no-sotong super speed, try AR.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Jan 7 2015, 07:07 PM

what's so difficult about setting for LC?
sama je pun basic braking and damper

bro, get the Option 1 mesin bubut from HLJ.
my friend got 1. easy to use and quite precise. no need manual sanding.

you will need the power station to power up the motor
can also use different brand like Yokomo Power Station
alternatively can use RC battery also, but i'm not so sure how to configure it, no experience.

MYR to YEN looks fine to me, and from what I heard YEN is also hanging low compared to other currency.
but every other currency looks bad.

Managed to score a few sets of SXX evo for less than RM200 each. Imma happy camper

Nak buat sparepart dan potong-potong

once you nyet nyet the sound straight go to its highest pitch with almost no dip
there should be no rough vibration. high torque motor like power dash usually have more vibration than low torque high rpm like sprint dash, but the vibration feels smooth but powerful.

you need to 'feel' the vibration
if the vibration is kasar means the motor is going to kong soon
if the vibration feels smooth it should be good

but from my experience, mach dash pro shouldn't vibrate much. it's one of the easiest motor to tune for maximum rpm, but the carbon contact worns out pretty quick too.

buying motor also depending on luck
sometimes out of packet, nyet nyet a bit, then can fly already
sometimes no matter how many times you nyet, the motor just don't want to perform

Try to cut some holes in the MA chassis to allow a little bit of flexing. That will help a bit in terms of landing from jumps.

There are Indonesian and Chinese racers who play by their own rules and produce chassis from the scratch material.
But as for us, we generally follow Tamiya rules for fairplay and competitiveness. so even if our Tamiya cars are reinforced with FRPs or CFRPS, we still follow a certain kind of limitations. Absolutely no homebrew chassis allowed.


1. I chatted a bit with a Japanese racer (who is a bit fluent in English), and according to him, most racers will use sliding dampers if they race on 5-lane circuits (Tamiya sponsored tourneys,
Japan cup, Autumn cup) due to the size of the circuit, and the vibrations/shock it produces when cars are racing. Sliding dampers not just help in assisting corners for max speed, but also absorb the shock when 2 or more cars running side by side. In 3-lanes curcuit, there's actually more shock and vibrations on the wall especially when racing in tandem mode, that most of the time running sliding dampers doesn't even do much besides slowing down the car down, so they go for simpler setup, a.k.a fixed position bumpers. My words might not be very accurate about this because I can't find the chat log, but that's kind of the general idea about it. This is just the person's opinion though, not 100% fact.

2. Use normal wheel as opposed to one-way wheel unless you're racing technical with slower motor limit. Large or small doesn't really matter (well it does but...), overall diameter is more important if you're looking for top speed (largest diameter possible) or max stability (smallest diameter possible a.k.a low ground clearance). It's your choice depending on your car overall setup as well as the track condition.

3. Never played italian, cannot answer this.

4. Tire trimmings as well as shaving off some chassis part is quite common these days.

5. The 3 mentioned chassis are best for technical, out of the box. But AR chassis is also not a bad choice for super speed with modding limitation imposed (no sotong tyres, no chassis cutting).

6. Lap timer.

This post has been edited by soulfly: Jan 31 2015, 01:18 PM

make a hole under each battery slot
just a rough idea



your landing is weird due to the center damper placement.
in my opinion, that is the worse damper placement to use.
always set your dampers nearer to the front wheels, or far back (same line with your brakes).

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 1 2015, 09:09 AM

Potong untuk kasi chassis lembut sikit. Absorb impact masa landing. Lekat macam cicak.

MA/AR actually best for 5-lanes.
Smaller chassis usually performs easier on 3-lanes.

bukan untuk setup belanja.

longjam sedap kalau bukak besar, cantik je tengok dia ternganga.
track kurang belanja or semi-tech better bukak kecik je. hoho.

one-way wheels have the same concept as a car's LSD. it reduces wheel dragging when running through corners to give better exit speed (traction). it really depends on the layout of the track to get the full effect, usually track with lotsa curves and with low to moderate speed races. When you're doing much faster races. the effect is not that prominent. all you get is just more weight from the wheels.

aku nye mmg pakai spring setiap masa