2nd gear hit 100kph

GaGa 1s are all fai poin fai JJ. Btw, jiu from Pinang rite? I tot jiu drib Inspaliah? Lately upgrade drib GaGa liao ar Feels like recently saw u lurk around here more often liao geh

This post has been edited by davidke20: Feb 3 2015, 07:16 PM

disberak sudah bengkoked. Save marnee & change another set, dun bother to skin it or huateber. Usually magician/tayarchop like to ask kastomer go skin 1 layer off, then charge RM35/side with labor all in will be around RM150. After skin, then tell u the old berakpad no smooth, your newly skin disberak will get grind by the old pad. So hor, they advice jiu to change berakpad, again cost you another RM100 or so. All in RM250+-. Plobrem is, the disc is only 19mm in stock form if not mistaken, after skin liao u hilang an mm or 2, would you imagine what happen to the disc if you driving halfway rain comes? Now on stock form already warp at 36k km, would you think after skinned, the disc become thinner, can it still last another 36k km? So u go back komplen to magician say berak time the car jerky, again magician sarjes yiu to skin again, and going through the whole anal process, yiu pei another RM250+- =_=' After 3 or 4 times skin the disc, possibly you ady can afford a set of BREMBO liao

FYI

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2499409

Brembo rotor, around RM400 nia 1 pair

Dude, passenger car's tyre came with steel belt reinforcement, hence hitting a nail will not punch it a whole or burst the balloon immediately. If a nail has punched it, you'll slowly lose some few PSi a week. By the time it goes flat overnight, good chance is you've clocked enough mileage on the nail that injured the steel belt reinforcement and make the hole a lot bigger until the leaking surface can't cope. Other than physical inspection, 1 will not be able to determine whether it is true if there's a nail attached on your tyre.



Other than that, performance tyres tend to stick larger particle such as stone or debris between the thread. When that happened, yes you'll hear pulsating ticking noise from your tyres as the car move.

On other case, the ticking noise are loud, something like [TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK] when braking, and it came from the back, chances are the drum brake hub issue. If this is the case, yes it is covered under warranty contract. It is rare for newer FLXs as the latest FLXs has been rectified from factory. 2012 and 2013 FLXs will have this issue.

So, do get it checked at trust worthy tyre shop before hand. You're asking, we're trying to help. In the end we don't earn nothing from you anyways. Do it from the cheapest first. I know you probably wouldn't wanna pay tyre shop for inspection, but that's the way it is. If you gangho die die wanna send Plotong Service Centre, good chance is the tyre got nail, and you get charge a premium on patching/changing tyre at Plotong instead of paying RM5 at bawah pokok tyre shop. Cainis old saying goes, small money no out, big wealth no in. In the event of no nails, you'll probably ended up paid RM20 for checking all 4 tyres, u get a peace of mind sending the car for warranty, and you know for a fact that SC unable to slaughter you by saying your tayar got plobrem

p/s: tayar itself not covered under warranty yo

This post has been edited by davidke20: Feb 4 2015, 08:47 AM

Keep lar annual leave. Later offer letter come liao can faster start work, take higher salary mar If jiu know who I referring to

Do whatever u wanna do now, soon u probably will be as busy as v12kompressor liao

Are you serious about getting your CONTROL down?

Get an old Saga Sedan 1.5[S] for below 3k. Make sure you get the 1 without power steering. Good thing about that car is, it's cheap to maintain. Make sure you get the old Orion 8Valves. The engine has tremendous amount of low end torque, running on MIKUNI dual barrel carburetor. The engine has no rev limiter, hence the best I've seen is my biological brother take it all the way beyond 8krpm, whilst the speedo over clocked 180kph and pinching the bottom of the dash cluster.

The front suspension setup is basic coil over type. Good thing is, castor will never run off unless chassis/lower arm bent. In the event of camber out, all you care to do is change the bushes and you'll be good. Rear setup is complicated type of travelling arm suspension(our local folks call it torsion beam, which is not) with in built anti roll bar. Rear drum brake will not jam as often as any other car that has a rear drum brake setup. However, the master brake pump is single layer, the brake feedback is super vague to an extend you felt like Flinstone using your own foot to create friction on the ground. This helps you to practice your ultra accurate of heel & toe action.

On stock form, the car is super understeer, makes it super safe to drive. After change rim, immediately offset will be automatically set negative(just about any aftermarket rim will make you negative due to the design of the car). Your turning angle will be increase drastically, and tend to have a lot more lift off over steer. In short, you get to drift with a stock front wheel drive car. This will help you develop a lot of reflects speed, response time, and experience of near loss event. Your steering action will be very sensitive to how the car negotiate and even without looking, by the feel of the steering you'll know the rough traveling speed.

This year, SNF around the corner. You may take it to Sepang and trash it to the max to find out YOUR limit. With an old Saga, it's never about the car anymore, it's about the driver! Tame that beast, and your driving skill will never be break! It's so cheap that you can break the engine and buy another car. Dude, for below 3k, how bad do you expect it to be? Even if it is, throw it away and buy another 1 already!

Take off your passenger side coil mat. Use your palm to feel the floor carpet see whether its wet. If it is, chances are

1) leaking windscreen
2) leaking aircon condensor return fluid hose(aircond water just like those household unit drip water from the outside) This 1 ultra common, Mahihi used to flood his cabin without knowing the hose detached, until I found out
3) intake shutter bitten by rat, outside moist kambing in from wiper housing

Solution:

1) Send it to mudguard shop/bodyshop
2) Just about any accessories shop that repairs aircon can do it. You can DIY if you willing to do so.
3) Also can DIY by following below video

http://youtu.be/gyVQsCzRJd0

My passion

Keep it cool bro

Next time crash edi, keep it low bro Ask insurans stuff, I willing to help, but don't remind others u crash ur kar will do

Kenot subparer den moi liao. Moi can do 2 hours from KL ~ Semban on a regular basis

Cannot subpar then me, I can do 2 hours from KL to Seremban

There's a very good chance after you read all my "WUEKEKEKEKEKE" comment then totally omit the last paragraph. You did put your right foot down the gas pedal when you feels the car unable to start, is that right?

If there's no fuel supply, sorry lah you wait 5 minutes, 50 minutes, 500 years also your car will not start back. Only mechanical failure will lead to fuel supply cut. So, there's a good chance that your combustion chamber is flooded

Got experience in reading other's experiences is also his own experience. Must understand, experience doesn't mean that he's got experience in technical, it simply means he experienced reading such thing. Understood?

There will be chance that the noozle not close tight. Hence it flood the combustion chamber. I don't really mean repeatedly trigger the fuel pump by switching the key on/off manytime can replicate the flooding situation. I'm not saying I'm 100% right, but have seen how the nozzle works as I'd went for sonic cleaning by using the high frequency shaker to clean my injectors. Before cleaning the injector, we use the high pressure pump to go through the process of FLUSH. As I press the button to shut, there are still cleaning agent slowly drip off the nozzle head(flooding combustion chamber). According to magician, this is usually the FUEL itself not pure that causes such issue. It's not dirty, it's just that the fuel itself will create sludge and jammed the nozzle from contracting. After sonic cleaning, hook up the flush machine. As soon as I press the button to shut off, immediately nothing came out from the nozzle

Technically, regardless how many times you switch the key on/off, the fuel regulator is there to hold the pressure at the right position. The most it will only strain your fuel pump and fuel delivery line. My point is, if your car already can't start during the WUEKEKEKE situation(which probably caused by nozzle not close tight, already flooding), somemore you switch the key on/off to trigger the fuel pump, the already leaking nozzle will further leak fuel and causing more kick start problem with the flooded combustion chamber.

Hope this explains it well.

Oh btw, thanks for the "complement". To me, your comment sound a lot more like saying I'm very CAINIS, to an extend a translator can direct translate my Engrish back to Cainis without an issue

My car kena crashed into butt 3 times in 4 years ownership. Recently after change bamper, kena crashed by MyBi again. Hit & run sumoar So... you all lose liao. Ayam the subparrest

dafuq r u talking about

dude jiu missing alot when I write in bahasa, I guess only local Malay can understand

ultra sesat unless, he know some extra curriculum of eqmal that we don't

drfeelgood, 14th price already attained Standby money liao Standby only ar! Don't buy 1st

Young kenot be married with grown up children meh? How old did jiu guess r3apers is