I need to know which amp suitable match with Dual voice coil woofer?
Like Rockford Fosgate P310D2 woofer, MB Quart DWG 254 ？

4 channel or mono amp?
What brand good for dual voice coil woofer?

perhaps 2 channel ? 1 channel powers each voice coil...`
4 channels also can... if it's bridgeable into 2 channels , then powers both the voice coils .. each..

depends on power requirement lo

some DVC can be power up by lil power...
so amp that can do 4ohm or 8ohm shud be okay

if the DVC if power hungry
probably a powerful amp with 1/2ohm stable will do

also enclosure does matter

Any suitable amp introduce?

HCCA/XTR900.2 G5 perhaps ?

memphis... HCCA... Prokick... MTX...

what sub are you using? power hungry ah? if not so power hungry then a 2 channel amp should do the job...

This post has been edited by craziechild: Sep 24 2006, 09:17 PM

yeah!! super duper highly recomended if u haf budget for them.. reliable, powerful and great AMP!!

im using this amp for my dual voice core... really good enough to max out the sub...

Magnat Bull Powe One...

14.4V only got 450W? How about 12-12.5V? Get lower or higher?

for sure it's lower.. on average the car can produce around 13.8-14.2v.. u'll get 11.2-12.4 when the car's engine is not running..

*this depends on the car 1

Normal car is 13.8V? Like that I have to check my car already. Mine only have 12.9V when the car is running.

It depends on the load on your car, if you've got a lot of other electronics and also you turn on the air-cond and headlights, it'll drop lower.

hmm.. if it is, then maybe it's the alternator that u need 2 change..

i ON my HID, ICE & AIR COND... it remains above 14v all of the time.. i know cz i got the digital meter reading on top of my dashboard..

Is it? Anyway my alternator has serve me for 3years and 5 months, my ICE got no problem at all and have no problem on starting mt car. Anyway my car just a Proton, maybe others got higher voltage, who knows?

wah ur myvi so geng? my fren change to 75A battery also can get above 14 when he on headlight aircon and ice.....u changed alternator? how many A? i think myvi icer would like to know....

no larhh.. didn't change anything for the engine part o anything.. i was suprised when i 1st installed the voltage reader which gave me that reading..

cz my fren's wira change his alternator onli can get the reading..

bear in mind the reading is not 100% accurate

Car battery is only 12V, altenator also will be supplying 12V+-, how to get 13.8V also I don't know. Anyway a sub if power is 300W, it can take power range from 50W-300W, normally the manual will state it. Only when using low power amp, it might overheat it and the bass punch is less compare to power it on higher power amp.
If a car's pwer supply is >13V, eletric parts like bulb sure will blow already.

This post has been edited by jojo902156: Sep 25 2006, 05:41 PM

but my alpine monoblock also giving that reading..
then muz b my car's problem larh.. huh

Any recommance except this amp? Budget RM1k to RM2k

Normaly DVC using 2 channel? monoblok? 4 channel amp?

This post has been edited by loon1031: Sep 25 2006, 09:35 PM

bro.. i assume u r using 2 ohm.. highly recomended for monoblock cz they r stable @ 2 ohm.. if u r looking for an amp, make sure it is stated wif

"stable @ 2 ohm" o "stable @ 1 ohm" very important dude..

get a HCCA 2nd hand

Agako amps is not bad for price of rm1k-2k, what for get some second hand amps that seller claims to be in tip top condition while actual is not and it still cost >rm1k? Unless is selling cheap, maybe rm300-500, then can consider about it. By logic thinking, will a person buy a high powered amp and never blast it?

a running alternator will give out about 13.8-14.4 v..car electronic are voltage tolerance ranged from 11-15.5/16v. some parts allow more lower power to work...example 9.5v....btw, the ampere will effect the voltage read by multimeter...u try use a 0.5A 12v power supply and read it...then use a 20A 12v power supply and read it...the 20A power supply will have a bigger value..

btw, a healthy battery will give u a reading of 12.4-12.6

Agako ar.... I don't think it meet my requirement.
Second hand amp doesn't mean not good...almost can use half price to get it...

For me, second hand if use <1week half price I can consider, >1week 25% from the actual price. Remember, eletronic parts main enemy is heat, as a car won't keep under 100% covered roof all the time. I bought a second hand amp which claimed to be at good condition, later when open up the cover, I found some burnt resisters.

probably u bought some not reliable seller

i've seen hundreds of second hands trading over and over again
and yet to see which amp is going to be faulty

burnt resistor is normally cause by amp abuse
usually is over gain control, bad air ventilation or mainly... cheapo amps

I don't know how you define the word abuse. The amp is 300w rms and the sub is <250w rms. By making the amp working at 75%, is this called abusing the amp? Anyway this is the good part of buying second hand amps, where short warranty will be given by the seller. Will the buyer or seller knows that the amp will spoilt after some time?

wat brand is the amp and sub?
amp gain level ?
DVC sub or SVC?
amp 2ohm stable ?

This post has been edited by driftmeister: Sep 26 2006, 05:43 PM

bro.. i dono which stage r u @ but then ur knowledge wif ICE is no offence.. mind if i ask how much haf u spend wif ur AGAKO ICE? the thread starter is loaded 1

i think those 2nd hand amps that u haf experienced muz b those brothers, agako, pegasus and all the chapalangs.. if a g00d quality amp, no matter how u abuse it no problemo.. (as in on it loud and not pouring water, throwing the amp on the floor and so on...)

bro.. do u mind telling us wat r u using?

Is Lightning Audio considered as chap ayam? What I trying to stress here is every eletronic parts has its lifespan. It might be shorter than norm if kept hot all the time. What components are an amp used? Special type of capacitors and resistors used?
Anyway if using some mid-lower end ICE is considered as ICE knowledge low standard is abit childish. For me, people that have low knowledge on ICE is the people that only know how to buy expensive amps and will listen to what the acc shop people says without think twice.

My setup : Pioneer 5750, LA amp B300.2 for sub, LA amp B300.4 for MB Quart and Pioneer speakers. The gains for amps are at 50%. As the B300.2 is 2nd hand, I only know it when it thermal cut after blast at 75%for 2hours. Why it cut? Just simple, some components is time to retired already. As the amp is >4years old.

some1 plz voice.. ha! ha!

thanks!

may i know how much u bought the LA amp? if i tell u LA in foreign country is just like mohawk or even brother in here will u believe? btw, malaysia got a lot refurbish LA stuff....make sure u not buying refurbish+sec hand stuff....

btw, thermal cut for blasting at 75% for 2 hour is normal as every amp got diff efficienc and heat dissipation ability...but i wonder how u know it's 75% ? using age to define a amp is good condition or not is also wrong.....i had met some guys using kicker >6 years amp until now still now prob......

few years before LA are wellknow as SPL stuft because the fast and furious movie la... & sold expensive..
Then LA become Pasar Malam stuft liao .. not more highclass... can see it everywhere... Now LA Strom also no more liao.. only Strike & Bolt nia..!

Maybe SPL user will abuse their amp guar... power up Subwoofer will high power... If the amp not enough power so..will abuse amp la!

seriously....3 years ago -2003
i was using LA bolt FnF series monoblock
i tot it's so keng and i pwn the whole world
but after i tried some other amps
e.g. HCCA 250 G2 , XTR 900.2 G5, Genesis DMX ( or even amp that is not design mainly for sub - PHD 2200, Helix B2) etc
only i realise that the LA bolt is crap

extremely overrated, crap control over the sub, SnR is , bass is not accurate

after 1/2 years of blasting , kong already
claim warranty and sell off
i ask them wat's wrong with the amp
DAC burnt (IIRC)

ha! ha!.. strong statements dudez..

drift, u cant compare LA and genesis la...diff category edy....

XTR can le gua
same price range

loon,

g00d stuffs alert...!! check this out HERE

The lucky thing is I got the amp for rm300, so now after change the resistor, the cost for the resistor is rm0.3, now the amp can punch for >2 hours without any problem at same volume.

warhh... i found that u also kind of thick face..

u r telling ppl A then now u r trying to switch it B...

I never bought Agako amps before, I only came across it when stopped by at an acc shop. As thread starter said rm1-2k, so I think it will be 1 of the choice, then don't know who trying to says that I have this amp.

bro,

wif rm1k to 2k.. u can get an alpine 600rms monoblock that can whack almost every woofer and everything down.. (2ohm load if i'm not wrong)

who the hell would want to buy m'sian made amps ifthere is an international brand wif international quality and also standard..

btw, plz be humble and stop making strong statements here.. u will block urself.. i've spent almost rm10k in the learning process and we're here to help ppl by shortening the path.. i'm willing to hear suggestion that is reasonable to me but then the way u r speaking is like trying to flame everybody who is using branded.. haf u ever wonder the amount u spent on ur current ICE can get branded stuffs wif g00d sound quality setup? o even SPL?

This post has been edited by mattchin: Sep 27 2006, 09:32 AM

Agako amp.. I find it's very expensive compare to their other brand called Prokick ..

With RM1k to RM2k.. Can get other monoblok amp which is underrated.. MTX, kicker, JBL, etc... Those cap ayam is overrated...

actually agako amp are more expensive due to it's actually export model....in US, u can only see agako and in korea i think, it's bass acoustic.....here are prokick....Agako are quite famous in USA due to it's power delivery and also durability in SPL......
i think most ppl think agako is overrated is because they public both max output and true rms together which seem to be very identical....

the model number is not the rms power of agako amp...eventhough many amp manufacturer name the model as their amp power, but agako rated it with the amp highest output...if wan get the real output power, u need to get the user manual...

i think a agako/prokick monoblock model number 2000D will only give about 800RMS @ 1ohm....many ppl will say it's actually 2000rms @ 1ohm but it;s actually the max output.....

btw, i know it cos i had met some foreign icer from US forum last time..they told me agako is not bad for SPL especially the monoblock....but i dun think anyone can differenciate a spl and sq monoblock (class D) while they are powering the same sub

Yeah.. Many people mistaken.. 2000D is actually the max output in watts.. not RMS..

Hmm... Beside DVC...
I have another mind to get JL 12" SVC subwoofer.. hear that JL subwoofer don't need to much power to push it. Is it right?

I also thinking of getting JL audio.. 300w RMS / 600watts..
Those replica enuff.. ORiginal RM 1k ++.. Cannot afford..
Those models selling now all discountinued already in USA..

bro, wat budget u r looking for? if can, get a w6.. super nice go0d for sQ.. did i mention anything about adire shiva? it's a g00d woofer wif a good price tag too.. and it's onli available in PG..

as for the amp, MTX 801D some1 is letting go @ zth..

hehe...give it a try for the fake jl sub...tested power it with 100rms bridged each coil...not until 10 minute the voice burn edy..lolz....

most JL needs high power to drive them nicely

My budget up to RM1k++ for subwoofer..! Can get which JL subwoofer?
last time saw two subwoofer liao... JL & Hertz loh...

My 4 channel amp 80x4 @4 ohms, 160x4 @2 ohms, & 320x2 @4 ohms bridged enough?

not enough lar

wah ur amp can double up the rms by dividing the ohm ar?
wat amp is it?

shud be not dividing the ohm but 2ohm stable kot?
i might be wrong =\

rm1k+? i think u can get JL W3v2 (ori) o W5 (if there is any).. wat amp r u using larhh? sounds so powerful..

there's seldom got real rms tat can be double up when the ohm drop....
example 100@ 4 , 200@ 2

usually amp will degrade the rms when into lower ohm..
like 100@ 4, 150 @ 2...

but i think there's some amp tat can do like the first example..just curious to know wat amp is tat

Aiya. I am SQL kaki.. Looking for 12" woofer that can do SPL to put in rear trunk.. tight budget also.. How's the kicker 12" C12?

last time kicker was very powerful.. but then nowadayz their standard aledi dropped.. u can gif a try though...

My Amp is ARC Audio 4150-XXK

Saw JL W3v2 (ori) before...hmm..last time saw around RM1K loh...
but don't know the performance...
My amp can handle it ka?



This post has been edited by loon1031: Sep 28 2006, 01:01 PM

RMS or Watts? If RMS then can but not very powerful..

This post has been edited by Amedion: Sep 28 2006, 04:06 PM

Must RMS la... not likw the capalang amp use watt only..

RMS then can.. JL audio stated it's 300w RMS.. Your amp gonna gets very HOT..

loon ur amp can use with the sub..no worry...it will blow ur sub also...

since ur amp can do 320x2, then u just connect ur sub each voice coil to each bridged channel....then it will be okay...

but is the ARC true rms? as i know it's also some overrated product wor....

but no worry la...as long bridged can output 150-200 rmsx2 then it will blow ur sub edy....i dun think JL can handle >450 RMS with low low freq >50...

I have confirm it is true RMS mah.... If not 80watt meh maybe blow tweeter also can't la...

My amp as below :-

don worry..

my JL in the myvi was powered by my a/d/s (50x4 @ 4 ohm) and mine was a DVC.. i briged it to 8ohm(cz u can either make it 2ohm o 4 ohm load onli)
(which means i haf a lower power) and it still sounds good but not powerful.. not 2 forget it is in a sealed box..

now feeding my JL wif 600rms @ 2ohm (amp rating)... he is so FULL now..

Which JL sub you use?

12JLW3v1..

but i heard magz said that the V2 is more easy to control than the V1.. dono true o not.. u can gif it a try and 1 thing for sure tat there is no regret..

last time i was using this alpine 8" sub (active sub) SWD2000.. i sold the active sub off and get this JL.. it sounds 10x better than the 8" sub..

yup.. I agree I have friend show me before JL woofer in sealed box... nice
Heard people said before too... V2 more easy to drive...

Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 300W

hmmm.. actually i like the adire shiva a lot cz it realli delivers a very g00d bass (SQ) in a sealed box.. this brand has a good reputation a while ago then dissapear liao larh..

if ur budget allow, do try the W6.. it's more likely towards SQ too.. there was once i auditted a car in KK Lau and i was totally amazed..

Never mind... I still need to audit more subwoofer... hehe!

how u goinna audit larhh actually? unless u got go out for TT session wif those poisonous cars 2gather gather.. ha! ha!

then i haf no medicine 2 cure ur poison liao

Some Shop got demo... Saw one shop before got a lot of demo, tat time I go just for survey amp only..hehe

do they put them into the car o is it juz a display set on a tall wooden box wif a lot of players, amp, speakers and woofer juz to try?

Some got display set ...
Some got display car...
SOme just display only..

How much you bought that JL woofer? RM 1k + kah?
What amp you using anyway?

You ask who?

Loon

Just some additional data, Real JL audio sub can handle alot more that what they post. This is because in the states their consumer rights are very strict hence they always underate their stuff. I have a few real life examples to prove.

1) Go check the rating for JL 12W7 would you believe me that to properly power it you will need an amp that can generate more than 1k RMS of power at least something close to 1.5k to 2 k watts. anything less that that it will not be enuf.

2) I have someone running JL 12 w6 v2 with 1.160watt RMS

3) JL 12w3v2 running from a 600watt monoblock.

4) JL 12w3V3 running from 800 watt

basically based on what i have seen sofar for JL subs best sounding thats its tight and accurate you will need to push at the wattage that is orange running near to red colour in the power bar.

Only then will the sub sound good

My RM0.02 cents worth of info

P/S just becarefull with the model JL12w3 v1 and 12w3v2 there are alot of fakies around. they look exactly like the real one. only the sound its different and the power handling lower coz the voice coil its actually smaller.

This post has been edited by slyder: Oct 2 2006, 10:00 PM

Just now got see the original JL 12W3V3 with RM900+ + Sealed box.... I think it may not be imatation leh( got ProICE sticker)...

This post has been edited by loon1031: Oct 4 2006, 10:02 PM

if it's an ORI 1... it is really a g00d price..

btw, don get a cheapo box.. make sure the box is a g00d quality 1 and if ur boot space allow, do make the box bigger a little from the requirement..

I confirm it original loh...because I install my amp there before & know the boss...
I think my Kelisa only can fit the normal box size... because no more space liao...

uuuh.. the normal size tat u said is it 1.25 cuft?

What is cuft? Actually I not so familiar with Subwoofer...

cuft = cubic feet... the enclosure measument unit...

This post has been edited by craziechild: Oct 5 2006, 07:06 PM

How about JL Audio W3v1 cost RM800 + sealed box?
JL Audio W3v1, W3v2 & W3v3 which one is better?

What if people take replica and sell expensive?

i bought my JL from states.. (my cousin send it back 2 me) it cost me around rm700+/- that time(3-4 yrs back).. i don think so it is still worth that amount.. i think the newer version performs better

not sure actually

but bear in mind that there r lots of imitation in m'sia.. so again.. becareful

Now i got offer from difference shop
JL Audio 12W3V1 with sealed box RM800,
JL Audio 12W3V2 with sealed box RM900,
JL Audio 12W3V3 with sealed box RM980,

Still don't know which one will be my choice...!
Because don't the difference mah...

gif up the v1 since it is so old and long time story liao..

ur choice will end up @ v2 and v3.. so u figure it out urself larhh.. btw, how low can this v2 and v4s' freq can go down 2?

Newer version only RM 80 different? Not bad...

12W3v2-D4
Free Air Resonance (Fs): 24.0 Hz
Electrical "Q" (Qes): 0.443
Mechanical "Q" (Qms): 8.483
Total Speaker "Q" (Qts): 0.421
Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 3.65 cu. ft. / 103.4 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax)*: 0.463 in. / 11.8 mm
Reference Efficiency (no): 0.310%
Efficiency (1W/1m)**: 86.9 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd): 81.5 sq. in. / 0.0526 sq. m.
DC Resistance (Re): 7.35 ohm***
Nominal Impedance (Znom): Dual 4 ohm
Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 300W
Driver Displacement: 0.07 cu. ft. / 1.98 liters
Net Weight: 11.2 lbs. / 5.0 kg


12W3v3-4
Free Air Resonance (Fs): 26.72 Hz
Electrical "Q" (Qes): 0.472
Mechanical "Q" (Qms): 7.572
Total Speaker "Q" (Qts): 0.444
Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 2.844 cu. ft. / 80.54 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax)*: 0.510 in. / 13.0 mm
Reference Efficiency (no): 0.313%
Efficiency (1W/1m)**: 87.15 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd): 80.600 sq. in. / 0.0520 sq. m.
DC Resistance (Re): 3.563 ohm
Nominal Impedance (Znom): 4 ohm
Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 300W
Driver Displacement: 0.071 cu. ft. / 2.01 liters
Net Weight: 14.50 lbs. / 6.58 kg

Which one better?

12W3v2-D4 more into SPL ?

I don't know how to see the spec...