https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3278428

My city drive fuel consumption according to fuelly is around 11L+- on average, but it is not a good benchmark in any way cause I go beyond 4K RPM quite often. In one highway drive I recorded a fuel consumption reading of just 4.9L/100KM (odometer) at an average speed of 70KM/H ~ 80KM/H from Bandar Utama to Old Klang Road in the wee hours to tapao bah kut teh .

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 19 2015, 09:38 PM

Not as nice as the ones at Klang. Soup is still ok. Klang punya always finish really fast + the content is not as much.

How much did you pay for them? Have you already replaced your steering rack bushings?

I see. How much was the workmanship? Did they have to remove the supporting column below?

Ahh. Thanks. Planning to change mine next month or later. Where did you do the DIY job at?

The petrol meter cannot really be trusted. For the first two bars it drops quite slowly, and as it reaches the halfway mark it drops really quick. Use fuelly.com or a car statistics tracking app instead to track your fuel consumption.

I've used this rubber quite a lot. Now I took it out totally for my rear doors, and only placed some at certain parts that the front doors come into contact with. If you insist on doing this, use small D only for the front and rear doors. Big D will cause the doors to be really hard to close.

As far as I can tell, it does bring quite a difference if the door seals are already worn out. If your door seals are still in a good condition, I would not bother adding the rubber cause wind noise is generally not a big issue from the doors unless you are travelling above 120KM/H. Most of my wind noise now comes from the front windscreen after I replaced all four door seals recently.

Nope. But it might be related to a wire inside the steering column cover. I noticed that taking it out causes the beeping sound without any key, but I don't remember which wire it is. You're going to have to remove the cover to check, which should not be hard. Otherwise just send it to a workshop or Proton to have it checked.

You mean 195/60R15?

I used to pump around 34 PSI (235KPA) for the front, and 32 PSI (220KPA) for the rear. Eventually I reduced it to 32/30 F/R cause the my tyres no longer gripped that well plus they were still a little too soft to corner as hard as I would like to.

This will involve quite a bit of money, I suspect. First of all you need to divert the wind away from the wiper blades, that involves shaping the hood or moulding a new piece of plastic that does just that. The next thing that might help would probably be an acoustic windscreen, i.e. windscreen that has a special material sandwiched between the glass layers to absorb sound.

Has anyone had their compressor magnetic clutch replaced before? Mine engages quite loudly with two "pops" when the engine is just started for the day. During drives when the compressor engages it can be quite intrusive; the whole car slows down momentarily, and I can feel a kick through the throttle pedal.

Find something that you're comfortable with. Otherwise if you insist, 32/30 PSI for front and rear respectively.

The R3 rims look really nice to me. But they are 16" in size, so you will need to get new tyres as well.

How much ATF fluid is drained each time for the Persona? I drained mine the other day, and it was definitely more than 4Ls, but I'm not sure how much more is it. I've added up to 4.9L of ATF already, and I cannot really fathom the dip stick reading after numerous shiftings and wiping.

Edit: I went around the net trying to find an answer before this, and it was either 5L or 4L or 4.5L. With the car started and after shifting through the gears, wiping and leaving the stick in for a few good seconds, the level is just slightly around a quarter below the max cold line, which is perfect. But I am in doubt because when I added the ATF the level didn't seem to be changing at all.

Without the engine started, the ATF reading covers both the max of cold and hot, so this is not really ideal, but then again the measurement of the ATF should be taken with the car started and after shifting through all of the gears according to the manual.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 27 2015, 10:17 PM

I'm not entirely sure either... Proton didn't include the drain amount in the manual . I only realised that it was more than 4Ls after the 4L engine oil bottle I was using overflowed, but I didn't bother to find out how much extra was there . I went out just now though, and I checked the level at working temperature and it's touching the max hot line, so for now I believe that the ATF level is most likely around 5L if it's just normal drain with some extra time allocated for the ATF to continue dripping .

Edit: I think it might be leaking cause he poured too much ATF in one go. The air that fills the space in the gearbox when it's draining comes out the same way the ATF goes in.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 28 2015, 03:16 AM

I see. So I'm just about short of 100ml now.

How fast does the engine crank? If the cranking speed sounds slow I would say it's probably your battery. If takes more than 5 cranks to start I think it's quite normal for some Personas. Mine occasionally takes that long to start, but after cleaning the throttle body, replacing the spark plugs and et cetera it normally starts under 3 cranks, sometimes just 1 crank. It usually takes more than 5 if I release the key too fast and cause it to fail to start and have to do it a second time.

I remember Zordaq told me that they offer the original engine mountings for less than that, but I don't remember the exact price. It was definitely more than RM300, but I would say that it's quite worth it if it's genuine Proton original mountings and not some 3rd party mounting like Schmaco or whatever. They say that the original mountings have much more rubber content.

Not sure also... I would check the spark plugs first, and if they're still good, I'd have the throttle body cleaned. If the cranking speed is normal for all the situations you have mentioned, I don't think the battery is at fault .

M-Line does not have a passenger air-bag if I remember correctly, so you just need to take a look at the dashboard to verify.

B-Line apa pun tak ada. No airbags, no ABS + EBD, and etc

Your budget is around RM25K?

I see.

Anyway, for those who are interested in getting a much higher quality ATF for their Persona, I recommend the Petro-Canada DuraDrive MV which is a synthetic ATF that is compatible with many types of AT gearboxes. Gear shifts are really smooth and idling in gear is mostly a silent and low vibration affair now .



The price starts from RM5x per litre. It's a good RM20+ higher than the Proton SP3, but Petro-Canada claims that it can be used for the lifetime of a vehicle, or at least 100,000KM as far as I remember, so you're actually saving quite a bit here compared to purchasing SP3 and replacing it every 20,000KM/40,000KM.

Product link: http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/en/products/612.aspx

An alternative that I read of recently is the Motul 1A that is also a synthetic ATF around the same price per litre, but I didn't read much about it.


P/S: I actually did change to this some time ago, but I did a mix of Petro-Canada's Dexron III fluid + the DuraDrive MV for both flushing and topping up, so now I am replacing a total of 5 litres of ATF with the DuraDrive only.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 30 2015, 08:46 PM