EPDM update: P-type is suitable for bonnet, door trim, and boot cover.
For door trim, we can continue downwards from the window pillar.

Alternative to door trim is using small D. This one can close the door gaps at the A, B and C-pillar. Expect both small D and P type to make the doors harder to close.

I was using 2 layers of big D for my bonnet. Less cost efficient than single P-type.
Need to cut open at the front intake, to allow cold air intake. Otherwise, penalty is ~2L\100km FC degradation.

Anyone interested let me know, so to motivate me take pictures...

For me to burn money. LOL.

It's an old trick, really.
Example here.

For me, I can hear motorcycle pass by through the door gaps.
Also, notice the stock rubber seal only close the gap halfway down the B-pillar. I want to close it. Have a look at Audi Q8 door seal if you see one. It's all closed up.

This is small step to improving noise insulation of EB. Others in plan: firewall, floor and roof; door; wheel well...

That one need different treatment.
Soundproofing is to prevent exterior noise coming in.
Then, interior acoustic treatment. This one is mostly affected by the material facing inside the cabin. A bit like studio room.

l3iTi2uk3y The measurement can take from own car. I need to find time, cut the sample strips to short section so can take pic. I target do 4 doors, rear boot and redo bonnet... sorry to keep u guys waiting. last weekend was helping friend move house.

I can only tell the tailgate brake light, and side door trim.

andromediaany DRL in the headlights? how about interior?

This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 27 2015, 01:33 PM

UNFORTUNATELY, the rattling sound from the left side, when driving at low speed is still there. It is not caused by the boot cover.

My worries are, it is caused by either the VVT or CVT.

I need help from some of you going to service their EB soon.
First, drive with the left hand side windows down. Go slowly, at around 40 kmh. As the car glides without acceleration, do you also hear random rattling sound?

Please check with your SC for opinion. I checked with Penang SC, and one white shirt guy told me it is brake disc cover and tightened the front wheel mounting. I find this a little disappointing, as I know the noise is not from there...

If this is true, I'll belanja you teh tarik kao.

Radiator fan not working? Is it when engine switch off, it doesn't turn?

Alas, it is not the battery holder.

It depends on radiator temp when switch off. If above 90C, then it will spin.

Maybe share what I know. After engine shutoff, the water pump for turbo module continues to function. You can hear 'zzzz' sound near the turbo module, and it can be traced along the turbo coolant hose just a few inches away. Together with this, I could hear 'bloop... bloop...' sound, like coolant boiling or moving along the hoses, into the radiator.

Do you observe something similar?

Another theory... I don't like spinning theories since it waste people's time, but here goes.

I googled for "ABS rattle", and guess what I found. It is a common problem around the world. Searching further, there's this component called 'ABS ring' or 'tone ring'. Now, I just need to verify if indeed our EB has this component, and that mine is in fact, defective.

What this means is that, we've seen many of us having ABS related issues, and most the time we think it is the sensor problem. Hopefully, if we can pinpoint the actual problem, could save us a lot of headache and nuisance.

Wish me luck.

The first one would be more suitable.

Some older threads suggest the battery lasting up to 80k+ mileage, and still running fine.
Average battery life for a new car is ~3 years.

A few users suggests to top up the liquid, although it it maintenance free.

Battery life depends on how it is used. Most important is to give it a good charge every 6 months, this can prevent sulphate build up that can slowly degrade and kill the battery. One way, is to take the car for long distance drive. Another way is to charge it manually.

Sulphate build up can happen in all wet cell acid battery.

Also, monitor the voltage drop during engine cranking, using a multimeter, or OBD dongle.
Make sure it doesn't drop below 10V during load.

This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 5 2015, 10:14 AM

Pricing and specs

Go to above URL, and select the models to compare.
The FC is different here and there. Take the comparison above, Premium and Exec is same FC, but SP is higher.
I'd ignore it.

This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 5 2015, 04:53 PM

I think you confused between Premium and Super Premium.
Only the SP has ESC and 4 airbags. The SP is ~15k more than Executive.

Nothing wrong with your choice either. Welcome to the club.


Remember old wira, where the low end spec has black colored bumpers?
I'm from the old times, so yeah, agree with you.

I started noticing this trend since SUVs like CRV and some others start to have this 'black, raw plastic' trim on their cars. Something just don't look right IMO.


This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 6 2015, 09:11 AM

calmshot nice looking ride. Lowered is it?

You drive very fast?

Electronic Stability Control?

Quoted by my plumred below.

This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 9 2015, 01:30 PM

wai1460Have you sent your EB for tire balancing and alignment? Have you recently rotated the tires? Please share some hints.

Adjust what? The FC meter? I don't think it can be adjusted.
Perhaps detail out your drive condition? Which EO, tire pressure etc that you are using?

Today driving uphill, and tried to accelerate from 40kmh at full throttle. Find that the EB is very hesitant to accelerate.
I believe it is due to CVT limiting the engine torque... anyone chime in your experience?

This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 9 2015, 01:32 PM

I bought this 17cm DRL.


worth sending to SC to check.

This post has been edited by alexei: Feb 9 2015, 04:04 PM