Fuel left one bar of petronas fuel. pumped RM70 worth of BP oil. let's see got difference or not for the next 1-2 months

Good to hear from you.
Well, still 70k so I expect it to worth every cent.

I'm mainly using Petronas. Once a while I'll use BHP if I happen to pass one.
Caltex if desperate. So far avoid Shell and Petron. Haven't try Petron before.

My experience lead me to choose a specific Petronas station along my way to work, and not particular other. Perhaps it doesn't matter. However compare that to Shell, Caltex and BHP, only BHP is on par if not better.

My method:
- When fuel level left one bar, reset distance tracking meter.
- Can drive some more, but the distance will be counted into part of next fill.
- Fill 38 liter (No particular reason).
- Repeat.

Before switching to Petronas, I've been a believer of Shell. Sharing a car (not EB) previously with another driver who uses Caltex. At the time, I never thought different petrol brand will cause FC difference. One tank will go 350km on Caltex, but 320km on Shell... and we'd argue about my driving style causing high FC. It was not until 2013 when we decided to experiment on different fuel brands. The comparison was among Shell, Petronas, BHP and Caltex. I've been a Petronas user since then.

Not to that extent. Reason I checked was to prepare for upcoming 30k service.
I reported oil leak after 20k but SC thinks it's oil left over during the service.

First thing I noticed was the gearbox body that is facing the front is very dirty. In the picture, it is at the right side. It appears dry, black in color. Wiped it with my finger and the stain can be removed, notice the finger wipe mark in the photo. Feels a little oily, but no smell. Perhaps it is oil mist covering the surface of gearbox, mixed with dust and dirt.

Then, I proceed to take photos of the underbody to discover that sensor component covered in oil.

i also do the throttle body service for the 45K servicing. dont know, maybe just my feeling, but i its give better respond, at present i'm getting below 9.5. the best was 9.2. maybe can drop more if less idling.

just got the car back from this morning repair on the gearbox mount, and at the same time dashboard rattling

the drive now is more smoother and more enjoyable got it done at Sekyen 13, PJ. and they have stock for the parts as I walk in.

go to shops that can do skimming first. they should be able to advice. but if you skim the disk, replace the pad as well.

it is ok if you don't feel any wrong with the brake disc
what model of dunlop you mean?

Try asking/finding for tyre Goodyear EfficentGrip Performance but not available. Change to Yokohama CDrive2, feel comfort & good performance like Michelin PilotSport3.

55D23L. 18months warranty

thanks, zaidi
ir5 they are same size, 75D23L is 'ultra performance' category. Higher CCA value, the shop I go offers this one.

Here's a blog about it:
55D23L vs 75D23L in Mandarin

Some spec:

thanks man...so the latter is more capacity and also tally with its price compared to the stock one

No. It is just more expensive and higher performance. It does not translate to longer life.

In other words, imagine u put 5 fishes in one tank, and 7 fishes in another tank... if any of the fish dies, means the tank fails... Not the best, but I hope you get the analogy. Although, I hope it will reduce the 'dimming' effect whenever aircon compressor switch on. We'll see.

You mean this?
<a href='http://<link removed>/2014/12/08/proton-exora-bold-cfe-recall-radiator-connector-leak/' target='_blank'>Proton CFE radiator leak</a>


Credit: YouDontKnowMyName

100% highway, 0% jam, 0% idling, speed at 90KM/hr all the way with a very very very sentimental right foot. i believed nobody can do that. so the figure they give only like 'mimpi disiang hari'. its all depends on individual skill and driving style, coz EXORA BOLD are made for performance. only you yourself know what it like to be.
the best i'm getting 9.0-9.5L/100KM for 70-80% highway. 100% city can shoot up >10L/100KM.

Big battery also still get headlamp dimming when compressor actuate.

My previous original Proton battery give me that problem but now after replace it with Bosch Battery, looklike settle this problem. Before this I also thought coz of wiring problem.

of late I notice many in the forum have engine mounting replaced, upon complain regardg steering, vibration , gbox noise . i suspect the engine mounting has design or manufacture issue and SC are replacing them . I got mine replaced because of gearbox humming noise, it did solve the problem. A colleague also have his replaced even when he made no complaints.

2 symptoms on mine:  morning steering vibrate and a humming sound from g/box when goin above 80km/h (humming sound like tyre roar but very obvious when goin downhill when the engine braking kicks in)

I think like hantu this engine mounting issue... i just felt weird yesterday as the vibration during idle was stronger than usual... now this... I think I know what to do next.