Dash 2016 is far far more sexy than 2015 !!!

I agree with you regarding the comparisons but folding bikes were meant for commuting and was never meant for long distance touring and also never meant for hill climbing.   Although it is possible and it's a challenge for many to do so, it really doesn't hurt in fact it should be encouraged. Off course, the FIT will be favoured if you test it but that's for the wrong assumption. Just like the Dahon Boardwalk, it uses 52 chainring in the former models and lately they switched it to only 48T. This means the ride will always be lighter and many newbies perceived it as an improvement because it is easy to pedal as it was lighter pedalling effort. What they don't realize it was the gear ratios that made it lighter and the bike moves slower than before. You know 48T , one revolution means 4.36 turns at the rear (let's say if you are using 11T at the rear) compared to 52T which turns 4.72 turns. The figure looks small and seems negligible but when you are doing it 80 times per minute ( this is cadence) that's 28.8 turns per minute and if you ride 30 minutes that's 864 turns that you lost to the 52T crank. That my friend is, ) assuming it is a 406 tire with 1.5 inch width, the circumference of the tire is 1.54 meters, this is per revolution )  864 turns which means 1.33 kilometers for the same revolution.

Too technical already  My opinion is, it is better to start riding hard and progress rather than start easy and never progress as it will get harder and harder. Eg. in my case, I started on 7 speed. Changed gear furiously when doing Putrajaya Lake 12 km loop. Later started to change less and after 3 months it gear was stuck to 15T at the rear and never changed, then do 2 loops or go over the bridge to the Aquatic Center side to complete 20 km.
Then I moved to triple chainring and it became too easy and started moving to other venues like Genting Perez, Genting Sempah and finally Fraser's Hill. If you start with an 18 speed, you will never increase your pedal effort as the lighter gears are all there. Once you hit a harder slope, the 18 speed won't be enough as you are so used to using it on a flat.

If you are riding with a permanent partner, make sure both bikes are the same specs. This will assure that both will advance equally. if not in later stages , the lesser one will slow down the other. 

Though many do not follow what I have said, I have always stress to new riders to start with a good frame. That's the paramount criteria IF you are serious in riding for long. I say that because there are many who are just 'tahi tahi ayam' kind of riders. They just conform to others without actually getting involved.  Once you have a strong and good frame, it doesn't matter if the upgraded components cost twice or thrice or even quadraple the cost of the initial bike. Good components cost a lot  and the very reason is durability and precision. You don't want to go riding and then halfway problems crops up. Of course this doesn't apply to 'taman riders'.

A branded entry bike rides better with good components than a 'so so' all have' bike. But bike companies do not really want to put good components as many use price as their main attraction factor. So, they just 'OEM'ed outdated or discontinued parts in bulk and incorporate into their lineup. This is to make price attractive but still the price is high if compared to the same specs. Sadly, here in Malaysia, there are still NO custom builders for foldies where frames and components are sold separately. What we do is just get the best and cheapest good frame and start with it.

Even if you change frame, the good components stays with you. As I did with mine long ago. When I wanted to change the Eco C7 to Speed P8, I took out all the new components from the Speed P8 and assembled on the Eco C7 and vice versa, The Eco C7 can still be sold for the price I bought new as Speed P8 components are better than the original. Another alternative is keep all the new components and assemble them back when you want to sell them.

It really makes a lot of difference when you ride and your bike works perfectly. Good components stay better tuned longer than the entry level components. Doesn't it make sense to use them if you don't know how to repair and depends on a local bike shop to tune and service the bike. It's a one time investment. If you use a Dahon and upgrade to the max, the price still won't be higher than a Birdy with stock components which are entry level. Or a Brompton which the price has now gone to almost 8K already. A Dahon Route with 2 x 10 Shimano 105 roadbike components and sealed bearing hubs will most definitely ride smoother than the boutique bikes ( a term I coined for those expensive bikes ). And this is just mid range and even if you take the best Dura Ace components, the price is just about the same. IMO, I rather have top components and mediocre frame and fork than a top range frame with lousy components. 

i blv when comfort is your main priority,durano is totally out.

I have been using these types for awhile, so far so gd.

Comfort tires are usually those using low pressure ( 50 psi to 80 psi ) and are usually treaded and wider. Duranos are made for speed, hence the 1.1 inch width, just like the Panaracer Minits which is even narrower at 1.0 inch. These tires are so thin and narrow, they need a higher pressure (usually 100 psi) to support the riders weight and these made them very bumpy and harsh. There are in between models like the Schwalbe Marathons which are made to last longer (harder compound) and slightly treaded. They are 1.6 inch width with puncture resistant layer. Puncture resistant doesn't mean it won't puncture, OK    Just that it can withstand smaller elements that can puncture a tire.

If you want a faster Schwalbe Marathons, there's a Marathon Racer which is 1.5 inch wide and treaded more. This one makes the Marathons complete together with the Supreme and Plus.

For real comfort go for the Schwalbe Big Apple. Real comfort but a hefty 2.0 inch wide. Makes resistance a bit more but can absorbs bumps better. Other option is the Maxxis DTH that comes in 1.75 inch and 1.95 inch. Heavily treaded and actually made for BMX bikes but usable in foldies. This sticks to the road like glue because of the heavy treads. Also be prepared to push harder lah on the road. There's no one for all kind of tire lah! Still the same, priority still reigns !

Schwalbes are getting really expensive nowadays. The Marathons are all over 100 bucks each nowadays. My guess is, they will get more expensive as we near October where news is, price of everything is GOING UP !

I have both Durano and Marathon on my bikes.  Marathon are much better suited to normal riding even on gravel tracks.  I doubt Duranos can outlast Marathons.

For me I would prefer more puncture protection than speed.  I may be slower, but if you get a puncture, I'll overtake you! 

Here's one of the few Speed P8 which has been upgraded to 27 speed.  There's is another one which I have sold off and this one that belongs to a very active biker which I have modded also. The same person who rode from KL to Penang and joined the CFAL ride. Look at the Alivio RD which is used on this bike and the triple chain ring. It is possible and if you are using road bike components, 3 x 10 speed is possible.

Finally some good news. Bila? Bila?

http://www.baikbike.com/cyclists-might-get...icycles-on-lrt/

Nope you cannot as the long cage of the rear derailleurs will hit the ground on the 40T or 42T setting. Maximum is only 34T at the rear.  If you insist on single crank you can go for 11T/34T , some say 36T is possible and then change the front chain ring to 48T or 44T. Same ratio.

Front 44T , rear 34T , 20 inch wheels is 25.88 gear inches or 2.065 meters development per one turn of the crank.
Front 53T, rear 40T , 20 inch wheels is 26.50 gear inches or 2.115 meters development per turn.

If you see from above, the difference is quite small, only drawback is, you won't be able to pedal downhill and your maximum speed will be limited and you have no option. The advantage is on the low gears.

Also, I don't know which cassette you meant when you say 11T/42T. If it is 10 speed, means it is specially made by a few companies and one of them Praxis works  and the cassetter is about 700 bucks each. It's not cheap. Other makers like Token and Aerozine are even more expensive. If you say the latest 11/40T cassette for MTBs will be the SRAMs and Shimanos 11 speed unit. This are even more expensive and specialized as you need to change the shifters, chain, cassette and RD. and these are only available in the top 2 levels, eg. Shimano XT and XTR. They don't come cheap either and so far I seen, they are sold in groupsets too.

I also anticipate the chain will be a problem as the chain stay of foldies are too short to accommodate. Usually those using the 1 X 11 or 1 X 10 speed in MTBs change their front chainring too. They change it smaller, sometimes only 28 tooth.

Paul
Riding a folding bike is a compromise. Just work out where you normally ride and determine the gearing you need. Forget the extremes as it is easier getting another bike for those conditions.

When you see a steep hill find alternate ways. When you go riding with roadbikes, grab the roadbike.
I'm now building a single speed, so it can only be ridden on flat roads, which is silly, but hey!

Dear Sifus,

I plan to buy a decent folding bike for exercise / leisure. My budget is ~ RM1.5K.
After doing some research, I scale down my choices to these 2 bikes
1. Dahon Vybe D7
2. Java Fit S16
I'm not sure I will upgrades the parts in the future or whether the parts can be upgrade or not ? I noticed everyone recommend Dahon Speed D8 here. It is worth to stretch my budget to get speed. Please help !! TQ

Sorry PaulKong. There are only 116 page inside this forum.
Are you referring to previous version?

spam picture 

this is my friend play my bike in office. ha ha they are still intrigued about riding to work

Not sure if there are any single speed fans out there, but I thought I'd share with you my latest build.  Built up from parts I have left over from previous purchase, swaps and taken off bikes along the way.

Recently found this new Soma Rush frame advertised for sale.  I already had the set of wheels from another bike, so I thought why not?  The problem is the rear dropout spacing.  This track bike is 120mm.  However my wheels needs 130mm.  This is a Tange Cromoly frame and the owner thought it would be too difficult to spread 10mm.  Anyway I bought it and researched the best way to do it.  The threaded rod method was too slow and too much work and I was only able to get about 2mm after a long time.  Decided to try Sheldon Brown's method as I had a long wooden post.  I carefully stretched both sides a bit at a time and after just a few minutes, I got 130mm !!

It is raining outside, so can't test it, but I'm sure it can be hard work as I'm used to having gears    But the crazy Americans even go off road using this setup, so can't be that bad.  In any case, I've got another bike instead of a pile of parts.

it s a little bit more comfy + little loose on speed.
durano 1 1/8 psi max 115..i m using it..less grip, hard.

btw, where did u bought yer java Java IRA-451-18S-C? wat price? tq