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LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
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igster
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Mar 12 2015, 12:15 AM
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New Member
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Mar 10 2015, 09:40 AM) Common grease will do. The purpose is to spoil the fun for the water droplets trying to squeeze through the contact surfaces. Last night it rained for some time, I just checked my boot, and it is totally dry, so my tail-light seal and the boot seal are ok after my repairs. detail of capillary action at the seal interface Cheers Albert! I got my grease and massaged it into the grooves of the rubber seal like a girl from Dongguan giving an acquaintance the girlfriend experience. All the while my grease dispenser stared at me leeringly like a voyeur with constant premature ejaculation. Lube on. Rubbers down. We'll see how she goes. Awesome that your boot was completely dry, man. Most awesome in fact! I had an odd WTF moment whilst putting the weatherstrip back on when the ends didn't join up. The loop I bought was somehow slightly longer than needed - so I trimmed it perfectly during the install. This time round, there was a fair bit of pulling and tugging and slipping and sliding before it got back to where it was before. Hope it stays that way. This post has been edited by igster: Mar 12 2015, 12:20 AM
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igster
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Mar 12 2015, 08:56 PM
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 12 2015, 10:36 AM) true. if you really want it all, there's the max categories, such as Michelin PSS/Yokohama Advan V105 the pricing of a set can be even more expensive than an iswara. (500-1k/piece or more price ranges LOL) True. LOL. (not even what to think about that!)
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igster
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Mar 14 2015, 08:48 PM
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QUOTE(igster @ Mar 12 2015, 12:15 AM) Cheers Albert! I got my grease and massaged it into the grooves of the rubber seal like a girl from Dongguan giving an acquaintance the girlfriend experience. All the while my grease dispenser stared at me leeringly like a voyeur with constant premature ejaculation. Lube on. Rubbers down. We'll see how she goes. Awesome that your boot was completely dry, man. Most awesome in fact! I had an odd WTF moment whilst putting the weatherstrip back on when the ends didn't join up. The loop I bought was somehow slightly longer than needed - so I trimmed it perfectly during the install. This time round, there was a fair bit of pulling and tugging and slipping and sliding before it got back to where it was before. Hope it stays that way. But alas, my lovely massage didn't really work as I had the car power washed today and after the spray the attendant threw a bucket of water on the roof and I realised that I had a frigging waterfall to complement my swimming pool! I think, water is pushing over the seal and into the back - boot and seat. I was able to stick my finger through the seal from the inside of the car and see it protrude from the outside - I'm a retired contortionist. Soon, it's possible, though I'm not certain, that that's the issue. I'm thinking about trying the idea of glueing weatherstrip on the opposing side to see if that works. No other idea how to rectify this.
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igster
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Apr 5 2015, 05:23 PM
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New Member
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Hi there,
Was wondering if any of the gents here can advise on an aircon compressor issue.
Mine's leaking pretty badly, and the AC guy says that it can either be fixed or replaced. There's no assurance for how long a fix, costing around RM200 including oils, servicing, etc., would last and a reconditioned one (no brand was stated) would cost around RM500.
I'm wondering:
1. What your thoughts are on reconditioned compressors.
2. Is it worthwhile trying to find (and buy) a new compressor - fully appreciate that the item might be scarce.
3. If a new original part cannot be found, what are your thoughts and advice on a Sanden SD507 or SD5S11 as an alternative - I can see if I can get a locally built one from Singapore rather than one from China.
The current (and leaking) compressor is a Danso (yes, not a Denso) 10PA15VL, which the label states is made in Japan. I've not heard of this brand - wondering if it's a Denso knockoff.
or, any other recommendations?
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1.3 Iswara Aeroback 12V, Manual
This post has been edited by igster: Apr 5 2015, 10:45 PM
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igster
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Apr 5 2015, 10:49 PM
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 5 2015, 09:30 PM) 1) hit or miss, if you lucky, no issue. if unlucky, the damn compressor is out of spec anyways (pressure, capacity etc) and it'll bog down your entire air cond system or even sap too much power from the car. 2) as per below, find uni car, they got original brand new denso parts. give them a call to confirm on details/pricing/availability 3) cant comment on this as no experience with sanden or danso/knockoff. 500? you might as well pay for a brand new original denso that provides better guarantee/assurance to your air cond system. i personally would advise you to go for uni car at ulu klang there. http://www.denso.com.my/content/service-de...st.php?state=14Thanks Quaza! Just a question ...I read somewhere that the Denso compressors (over Patco, for example) tend to sap too much power from the car, would you know this to be true or just a myth?
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igster
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Apr 6 2015, 02:45 PM
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 6 2015, 02:08 AM) if you have out of spec compressors (larger ones for example), doesnt matter any brand, it will sap power from your engine. Totally. I was referring to on spec compressors tho - something to do with rotary vs piston types. This post has been edited by igster: Apr 6 2015, 02:49 PM
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igster
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Jan 16 2016, 02:04 PM
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Hullo there,
Would anyone be able to recommend good and honest mechanics as well as spare parts shops in JB?
Amongst other things (at different times), I need to get my brakes (could be a servo issue) and horn looked at.
This post has been edited by igster: Jan 16 2016, 02:15 PM
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igster
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Jan 16 2016, 02:20 PM
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Does anyone have any thoughts on this:
My aircon sometimes blows hot air. I've taken it to a shop (authorised Denso outfit) but they couldn't find the issue as the darn thing decided to work when we turned it on.
I've since realised that mostly if i give dash a good thump, the aircon starts blowing cold again. Any thoughts what could be the issue?
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igster
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Jan 16 2016, 10:21 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 16 2016, 04:00 PM) The only thing I can think of concerning the thump on the dashboard is that it is related to the temperature dial, possibly bad contact. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Albert. This has totally got me flummoxed! You're right tho, it's possibly just that. Annoying as hell.
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igster
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Jan 12 2017, 12:41 PM
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New Member
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Hi Guys, I'm hoping you can help. My mechanics says that this part (circled in the picture) on my carb is broken, and that it can't be fixed, so the entire carb needs to be replaced. Can someone help point out what exactly might be wrong with the carb so I can understand the problem a bit better, please? Also, must the entire carb be replaced or are there rebuild kits that would sort this out - any pointers and recommendations would help big time. Lastly, if I do need to replace the carb, what are your views between the China/Taiwan carbs and the original one? ....there's a massive price difference! Much thanks in advance. Attached thumbnail(s)
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igster
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Jan 12 2017, 04:39 PM
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QUOTE(igster @ Jan 12 2017, 12:41 PM) Hi Guys, I'm hoping you can help. My mechanics says that this part (circled in the picture) on my carb is broken, and that it can't be fixed, so the entire carb needs to be replaced. Can someone help point out what exactly might be wrong with the carb so I can understand the problem a bit better, please? Also, must the entire carb be replaced or are there rebuild kits that would sort this out - any pointers and recommendations would help big time. Lastly, if I do need to replace the carb, what are your views between the China/Taiwan carbs and the original one? ....there's a massive price difference! Much thanks in advance. I understand that it's the auto choke, and can be fixed with a rebuild it, rather than replacing the whole carb (phew!). Is this a DIY-able thing? Does anyone know the procedure? Would still be curious about the China/Taiwan vs Oei carb thing tho.
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igster
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Jan 13 2017, 01:40 AM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 12 2017, 07:16 PM) Thanks ever so much Albert. I really do appreciate the pointers to the relevant posts as well as to the rebuild kit. I actually bought the kit earlier today, and it cost RM40 or so. The black bolt was mentioned in the posts, and from my conversation with the spare parts guy this afternoon was that it's used to rethread the auto choke tube(?) as once it's thoroughly cleaned, very likely the threads would be fully worn.
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igster
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Jan 13 2017, 08:09 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 13 2017, 09:39 AM) Thanks for the info, now it makes sense, i.e. the mysterious black bolt is a thread tapping tool, as its threaded portion is not fully round, just like those tapping tools in the market. By the way, you will replace the parts yourself? ( I was surprised the mechanics are not familiar with this thing). Yea, it's a thread tapping tool. Who would have thunk?! I was surprised as well when the mechanic told me, that's why I did a little research on my own. I've decided not to go DIY, and instead opted to get another mechanic to do it and send the part to be machined properly as I'm away. I'm keeping all your advice, pointers and illustrations tho, for future reference of a just-in-case sort. Thank you, Albert. This post has been edited by igster: Jan 13 2017, 08:16 PM
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igster
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Jan 31 2017, 08:11 PM
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New Member
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Hey guys,
Any thoughts on upgrading, hacking or swapping door panels of the Iswara 12V.
I'd love to have something more aesthetically pleasing and yet functional.
This post has been edited by igster: Jan 31 2017, 08:37 PM
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igster
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Feb 19 2024, 01:09 PM
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New Member
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Hi Everyone,
I'm hoping to get some advice and pointers.
I'll be replacing my worn Metal King brake pads soon - with the same pads, on my 2000 Iswara Aeroback, and might do the same for the rear shoes.
To increase the braking power and efficiency, should I consider installing a Double Layer Servo as well? If yes, I appreciate that there are a few options, but which ones are the most ideal ones that can be fitted with no or minimal modifications?
Also, should I be considering anything else as well, without going so far as upgrading the disks to VR4 or NVR?
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igster
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Mar 25 2024, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE(igster @ Feb 19 2024, 01:09 PM) Hi Everyone, I'm hoping to get some advice and pointers. I'll be replacing my worn Metal King brake pads soon - with the same pads, on my 2000 Iswara Aeroback, and might do the same for the rear shoes. To increase the braking power and efficiency, should I consider installing a Double Layer Servo as well? If yes, I appreciate that there are a few options, but which ones are the most ideal ones that can be fitted with no or minimal modifications? Also, should I be considering anything else as well, without going so far as upgrading the disks to VR4 or NVR? Sorry to ask again. Anyone have any thoughts on this: using a double layer servo with stock front disks + calipers and rear drums? Also, what might be the preferred plug and play make option for the servo?
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