I think it is not a problem for her as she is single and doing light cooking?

Friends,

1. I am revising my shortlisted options for Induction hobs (might be opting for 30 cm modular hobs - Teka brand mostly are out of stock and will not be available till end of January). - 2 zones, low wattage, more space on the counter top, aesthetically nice and able to get one at below 2K. I will present my list here once I am done.

2. I am getting an Electrician to do a sanity check as advised by halycon27. I will also post a photo of the actual DB box here in the forum as suggested by him for further discussion if needed.

3. I am not considering gas due to space constraints and the hassle of changing gas cylinder, and allocating a whole available space for the cylinder. S'aimer has summarised enough of why I discounted the idea of having gas.

4. I need a help. Can someone help to come up with a checklist of questions that I should ask the electrician?
Do I need to check with the developer anything on the existing electrical wiring?

Appreciate all your inputs presented so far.

If u decide on a teka model, can ask them to reserve for you 1st and get the dimensions for it.

30cm is also fine but you won't be able to use both zones at the same time to cook because the zones are spaced closely and not ideal for for using big and small utensils together. The old hob Im using before is a 30cm.

Hm the current wiring is new if your place is a recent project, but it would be good if your electrician checks that the wiring is properly done for peace of mind because some developers can cut material quality to save cost. Ensure your electrician is a good one, not the type to BS and chop carrot fast)

Since you need to put in new wiring dedicated to cooking hob, you need to check which side is the hob's wire on? Left or right side because the hob's wire which is the wire for plug but without a plug..needs to be run underneath and out of the cabinets side if necessary to connect to the wall socket outside.

The location of the socket is as important since your KC maker will need to work around it for the hob.

What else am I missing out?

Anyone has a reliable contact for electrician around Kajang area?

For my old hob, it was vertically installed. Looks nicer?. It seems that the wire behind my old hob is either at the side or the top so it depends on which side is it for the switch location.

I show you a pic of my current hob wire at the back.

You see the wire at the back of my hob? It's on the right side at the back, the front right side is where the knobs are. So the location of the switch and dedicated wiring needs to be on the right for me initially. However because the wire is behind the hob, so when install the hob, the wire will have to be fitted with a 15A plug and then plugged into the socket switch underneath the countertop.

It can be quite troublesome if you have to bend down and turn on the switch everyday.. In my case, it was a cocked up problem by the tiling contractor who did my counter top as his workers covered one of the empty socket outlet with one of the leg support. Had to ask my electrician to work out the socket position and wiring issue due to this.

Which is why I said you need to know the location of your hob's wire before deciding on the switch location.

I think you can get them to reserve if new stock confirm to arrive & you put deposit?



This post has been edited by S'aimer: Nov 14 2014, 09:09 PM


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Ask idoblu how to do the switch direct wiring. Place the switch as you like.

Bro, my kitchen countertop is tiled concrete support. Normally there are 2 end leg supports. But mine ended up with 2 extra leg support in the middle and it's 11ft. For some odd reason, the tiling contractor mention that the extra leg supports are better and more stable when we came back from our trip only to find they anyhow do the concrete top! Sian 1/2

But I suspect la the contractor's workers don't have enough experience with doing concrete counter top and some more one of the leg support cover the only available empty embedded outlet below meant for the switch face plate and new wiring. End up having a headache on the wiring as there is one empty outlet just outside the already tiled concrete support, that's why I throw the problem to electrician to help solve.

My wiring is like this :

15A Switch socket external box inside the countertop ---> Blank faceplate outside the counter top ---> 32A gang switch above. It's an L shape diagram with a router at the corner.


That's why Career26 got to know where is her hob wiring position so she can decide on the switch position and get thE KC maker to work on it

I m a bit blur blur from your explanation. Can you draw out or take a picture? Seems like not a problem or difficult thing.

Paiseh, not good at explaining.

Hope my rough drawing helps.

As you can see the bank faceplate is outside the already tiled counter top as the electrician had already put the outlets in the wall for electrical points.

Only the 15A switch socket has external switch box on the wall because original outlet meant for hob's plug was covered by one of the leg support. The electrician had to think of how to put in the wiring for the 15A's switchbox as the obstacle was the tiled concrete support.

So it's better to plan around the switch location for hob and get the KC maker to make provision or else *facepalm*

This post has been edited by S'aimer: Nov 15 2014, 12:21 AM


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So my understanding is you already have the 32a wall switch for the cooker? And already have wiring down to the blank wall socket? Only haven't joint to the 15a switch socket?

Your induction cooker will be using max 3600W since you will plug into the 15a socket.

Ya, I have already joined to the 15A switch socket via the blank switch socket to the 32A switch. The blank switch socket is technically what you call a routing point I suppose?

My vitro ceramic hob has nominal rating of 6000W so the nearest amp is 25 or 26A. The shop where I got my piano switches recommended 32A Gang switch instead of 45A DP switch because 32A can pair with individual 15A switch socket.

But my main point for Career26 is that the only issue is the hob's wiring is behind the hob so need to extend the wire upward to plug into a socket above than underneath the counter top. Mine cannot extend upward because the concrete counter top was done and no way to hack it. This was the only solution the electrician guy did for me.

This is because sometimes communications can be a little skewed between kitchen contractor and owner which is what happened between my tiling contractor and me.



This post has been edited by S'aimer: Nov 15 2014, 06:27 PM

The hob 6000w suck 25A. But the wall socket switch is 15A? Is that under rate? It going to melt down the socket.

The peino switch doesn't any related to the 15A switch. You just have 2 switch with 15A switch have an exceptional of a socket. Both peino 32A and 45A don't have any different in anything beside the rate. Choosing 45A have a better safety advantage.

From your explain, the blank socket inside suppose is a wire joining terminal? If in this case you may joint in this way.
Provided the hob wire is long enough reach to the blank socket.

No. There is a 15A inside the countertop. The outside is the blank switch. The way I see it, it looks like the blank switch connects both 15A and 32A. For eg, I need to turn on the 15A, then switch on the 32A gang before I can use the hob.

That uncle from the shop asked me about the 32A and 45A, I explained it was for my electrical hob and he gave me the 32A switch. The electrician even said 32A is enough. The way I see it like this, if 45A DP has added socket switch based on what I saw in catalog, wouldn't the same principle apply to this?

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This post has been edited by S'aimer: Nov 15 2014, 09:29 PM

I understand what you have there. But I saw some problem from your drawing and explain.

Have you realize that you going to plug your powerfull 25A cooker to a 15A socket switch? Did you see that the 15A figure is below the cooker rate of 25A.

Another is the blank switch case. Why can't the wire direct joint to the 15A switch from the 32A switch and must connect inside the blank switch case? So I figure it out that the blank switch case inside must be have a terminal that screw both wire joint together. Or probably a mistake in placing.

Given this 2 case, I draw out the solution. Instead the cooker plug into the 15A switch socket which is under rate, why not joint direct to the blank switch case. That is much safer and no additional cost need. Beside your electrician cost la. But that provided the cooker wire is long enough.

The 32A peino switch is find. Just the 45A switch given you 80% more safe. This 45A model have any different with your 32A switch now? --> http://www.schneider-electric.com/products...ed/60003-pieno/. But don't worry about it. It is find.

To sum it up.

The problem actually lies with my counter top construction. Blame it on communication issue with the tiling contractor.

1. There was an existing outlet in the wall for new wiring and switch but it got covered wrongly.
2. Because of no. 1 point above, there is no other existing outlet in the wall underneath for the switch so electrician has to install external switch box for the hob's plug and the hob wire is not long enough to direct to the blank switch.
3. The blank switch outside the counter top is located on the low end of the wall and the space beside the counter top was allocated for a tall cabinet to house my built in oven. The only switches I can reach are the ones above on the wall, besides the 15A in my diagram.
4. I saw this model back then. E82T15D45N 45A double pole switch with 13A switch socket?

If your house is a single phase, using the electric hob at max already using 55% of your house incoming. If you have any water heater or few AC switch on together you risk tripping the main fused (if it don't trip will burn the wires). Must be careful about especially having party or gathering.

Anyone using electrolux EGT9637CK and EFC926BAR ?

any comment abt these?

I did not manage to get an electrician during my visit to my unit on Saturday. He did not turn up.
However I manage to take photos of the DB as some of you requested earlier.

So for discussion sake, let's say I will be getting the following hood and hob:

1. Hob - Electrolux -http://www.electrolux.com.my/Products/Kitchen/Hobs/Induction_Hobs/EEH353C

2. Hood - Teka - http://www.teka.com/id/products/view/12917-hoods-tl1_62


I will be installing the modular hob horizontally as I mentioned in my previous post.
Now that the DB pics are up (hope they are clear enough for you guys to look at the technical information in order to advice me accordingly.

What do I need to ask the electrician if I want these both to be installed bearing in mind there should not be any nuisance trips?

Thanks.


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Cool ur MCB all C16?
I guess you after install all the water heater & Aircon would be some turn into red one, even fridge.