Your DB box is not a problem. Can install additional or change the MCB.

What you need to do is decide your fridge, hood and hob or oven model first. Than go to kitchen design to design your kitchen. Once all this is done, you can clearly see where you want to place your switch and light. With the technical data that some forumner here suggest, than you can call the electrician come and quote.

---> Could you please explain that? I have no clue what you are saying and why you are asking if the MCB - all are C16. I am no expert in this electrical stuff and you will know that if you had read the thread from the beginning.

kimsim is referring to the circuit breaker. It's 16 amperes (16A) which means it will distribute electrical current to the end points up to 16A before breaking the circuit. Overcurrent greater than it's rated Amperage can burn the wires and cause an electrical fire.

Going by traditional 240V, 16A will admit up to 240x16=3840W. At 230V, then 3680W.

Lighting and fans usually 6A but I've seen it go up to 10A in certain properties.

Socket point for appliances normally rated at 13A. Some points that share sometimes allow for 15-16A relying on the fuse at the appliance socket to protect overcurrent.

Kitchen by right should use 15A if sharing between fridge and toaster microwave. Some owners prefer dedicated ones to prevent nuisance trip on the circuit.

1HP AC and oven usually 15A. Water heater and 1.5-2.5hp AC usually 20A. Washing machine with dryer sometimes 20A as well but dryer alone 15A although newer ones uses 10A-13A.

The main distribution circuit coming in to the residential dwelling is either 32A or 63A (1 phase) or 100A (3phase). There are uncommon ones as well esp for larger requirements like offices also.

The overloading is what causes tripping but this is a safety characteristic of the circuit breaker to prevent overcurrent that causes electrical fire.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Nov 18 2014, 01:42 PM

Hi halcyon27,

For 20A, that means it can go up to maximum 4800W (240x20) right?

So let's say my hood is 230W and the owen is 2.7kw, that means they are safe to used together with 20A because the total power only draw about 3000W?

My wiring man advised me use 20A for the owen alone. Is that a particular reason to do so?

Thanks.

Our supply are 230v, theoretically you can only achieve 4600watt. But what you see is only the MCB, not the wiring, what wiring size the wireman use? 2.5mm? or 4mm2?

For safety reason, is not advice to load the wires max support current for long period of time, because it will harden the outer later and may cause damage/fire if it run too hot for long period of time, also how sure is the supply wires have pure copper?

In engineering, it always safer to run load below the maximum design.

Usually, electrician sound practice is to engineer with safety margin. Ovens range from at least 2400W (older Rinnai 5 and 7 function oven as well as Kee Huat Radio Europa ovens are rated for 13A socket use) to over 4000W (Range cooker with Electrical ovens like Smeg, Elba, Delonghi, etc). There could be some that draws more. None will know before hand what actual product will be used. The ball park is prevalently within this range. I'd follow the electrician's advice and weikee's tip to use 230V as basis for calculation as well as to note what thickness of wiring that will be used which is crucial. The rated amp of the circuit breaker is half the equation governing how much currant the downstream appliance can draw. But the crucial hidden half is the wire through which the current conducts over. It must match or exceed the circuit breaker amp rating. Put it another way, the circuit breaker should not exceed what the max wattage of the wiring it protects.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Dec 27 2014, 11:07 AM

sorry slot in......normally what is the distant gap between hob & sink?

Feng Shui matter or not?

not feng shui......pratical

2ft in between is good.

hi bro, turn into red means what ya?

just change for higher fuse lah, C20 or C24 sure enough

Hi All,

Been really busy with the reno work and missed to update here.
Kitchen is shaping up and I have bought all the major kitchen appliances that I have sought advice from all of you here.

What I purchased finally:

1. Hood: Teka TL1 62.1 (60 cm) from Everbright Kitchen - RM 540

2. Hob: Rinnai - RB-3002H (2 cooking zones) from Everbright Kitchen - RM 1350

3. Fridge: Panasonic BR307Z from E.S.H. Electrical - RM 1500

4. Microwave: Sharp Steamwave AX1100VS from E.S.H Electrical - RM 1069

5. BACO Kitchen sink and Wall mounted tap from 9sBath @ Jalan Ipoh.


KC and wardrobe has been installed and am waiting for my 4G doors and granite counter top to be done in a week's time or so. Things are progressing well so far and I hope it remains so till completion.


Special thanks to @S'Aimer, @halcycon27, @weikee @idoblu and many others for guiding me through from day one of my post. I am not sure if I could have done all of this by myself without your detailed guidance.

Appreciate it so much.

This post has been edited by Career26: Jan 24 2015, 11:15 PM

Hi ALL,
I am a user of FAGOR product.

I purchase their Kitchen Hob end 2010. So far, I am quite ok with the product performance.

Last October, one of the burner of the hob has some problem and report had been lodged since October. Sadly, until today, the problem is still not resolved yet. I have problem in preparing daily dinner/lunch as this is the only option I have.

I would say, the after-sales service team performance is not on par with their product performance.

After Sales Service is one of the important consideration before purchasing this product.

Just sharing.

S'aimer ozak

i cant find this switch locally. did you guys bought one before?

http://www.lelong.com.my/e82t15d45n-pieno-...7-01-Sale-I.htm

Never see before. Can't order? Around tesco, almost all the light shop carried shinider switch. But they don't keep stock. You can get next day.

Hi Idoblu,

Try contacting one of our lowyat forum member here who sells Schneider switches - Mr. Lim - 012-3925585
I bought all of my Schneider switches from him. Prompt delivery.

Even See Wide says tak dah. The one I found in Lelong got the ad but when I called, they say no stock.

Even I get a simple 2pole Schneider switch also no stock. They need to order and can get it next day. From the light shop around Tesco.

I was thinking to get this switch at the same time when I bought my pieno switches over a year ago but didn't get it because my electrician paired a 15A socket with a 30A gang switch due to my layout. However, I am not sure if it is in stock now?

You can call the electrical hardware shop where I bought my pieno switches but it isn't open on sunday. Do you want the contact number? Only thing is, the shop is based in JB

This post has been edited by S'aimer: Apr 5 2015, 12:31 AM