Isn't a 10mm better?

She haven't decided yet. Still considering between a 2 zone and a 3 zone or 4 zone induction hob at the moment.

But I assume that, cooking hob, hood will need dedicated wiring and if not a built in oven, there is a possibility of a table top microwave or microwave with convectional function in future???

That i know on the no sharing part.

Only thing is.. A 2 zone hob is 4800W while a 3 and 4 zone can be anywhere between 6000-800W for nominal rating.

That's why I ask if 10mm is best although 6mm might be good enough?

Bro, you should read back the last few pages.

Career26's shortlisted choices have nominal power connection of 6400-8000W although not confirm on her final choice

Most induction and vitroceramic hobs have high W depending on the no of zones.

Assuming we do not utilize all, maybe 3 out of 4 zones for example... Still will be up to 4000-5000W as an estimate so 4mm can carry all max? Lol that's why asking whether 6mm is enough or 10mm still better?

Gas would be cheaper but there's space constraints in the kitchen and her hob size must be 60cm. Hardly see 60cm gas hobs which is limited. That's why induction hob next alternative.

For my old hob, it was vertically installed. Looks nicer?. It seems that the wire behind my old hob is either at the side or the top so it depends on which side is it for the switch location.

I show you a pic of my current hob wire at the back.

You see the wire at the back of my hob? It's on the right side at the back, the front right side is where the knobs are. So the location of the switch and dedicated wiring needs to be on the right for me initially. However because the wire is behind the hob, so when install the hob, the wire will have to be fitted with a 15A plug and then plugged into the socket switch underneath the countertop.

It can be quite troublesome if you have to bend down and turn on the switch everyday.. In my case, it was a cocked up problem by the tiling contractor who did my counter top as his workers covered one of the empty socket outlet with one of the leg support. Had to ask my electrician to work out the socket position and wiring issue due to this.

Which is why I said you need to know the location of your hob's wire before deciding on the switch location.

I think you can get them to reserve if new stock confirm to arrive & you put deposit?
[attachmentid=4216737][attachmentid=4216738]

Bro, my kitchen countertop is tiled concrete support. Normally there are 2 end leg supports. But mine ended up with 2 extra leg support in the middle and it's 11ft. For some odd reason, the tiling contractor mention that the extra leg supports are better and more stable when we came back from our trip only to find they anyhow do the concrete top! Sian 1/2 

But I suspect la the contractor's workers don't have enough experience with doing concrete counter top and some more one of the leg support cover the only available empty embedded outlet below meant for the switch face plate and new wiring. End up having a headache on the wiring as there is one empty outlet just outside the already tiled concrete support, that's why I throw the problem to electrician to help solve. 

My wiring is like this :

15A Switch socket external box inside the countertop  ---> Blank faceplate outside the counter top ---> 32A gang switch above. It's an L shape diagram with a router at the corner.
That's why Career26 got to know where is her hob wiring position so she can decide on the switch position and get thE KC maker to work on it

Paiseh, not good at explaining.

Hope my rough drawing helps.

As you can see the bank faceplate is outside the already tiled counter top as the electrician had already put the outlets in the wall for electrical points.

Only the 15A switch socket has external switch box on the wall because original outlet meant for hob's plug was covered by one of the leg support. The electrician had to think of how to put in the wiring for the 15A's switchbox as the obstacle was the tiled concrete support.

So it's better to plan around the switch location for hob and get the KC maker to make provision or else *facepalm*

Ya, I have already joined to the 15A switch socket via the blank switch socket to the 32A switch. The blank switch socket is technically what you call a routing point I suppose?

My vitro ceramic hob has nominal rating of 6000W so the nearest amp is 25 or 26A. The shop where I got my piano switches recommended 32A Gang switch instead of 45A DP switch because 32A can pair with individual 15A switch socket.

But my main point for Career26 is that the only issue is the hob's wiring is behind the hob so need to extend the wire upward to plug into a socket above than underneath the counter top. Mine cannot extend upward because the concrete counter top was done and no way to hack it. This was the only solution the electrician guy did for me.

This is because sometimes communications can be a little skewed between kitchen contractor and owner which is what happened between my tiling contractor and me.

No. There is a 15A inside the countertop. The outside is the blank switch. The way I see it, it looks like the blank switch  connects both 15A and 32A. For eg, I need to turn on the 15A, then switch on the 32A gang before I can use the hob.

That uncle from the shop asked me about the 32A and 45A, I explained it was for my electrical hob and he gave me the 32A switch. The electrician even said 32A is enough. The way I see it like this, if 45A DP has added socket switch based on what I saw in catalog, wouldn't the same principle apply to this?

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S'aimer ozak

i cant find this switch locally. did you guys bought one before?

http://www.lelong.com.my/e82t15d45n-pieno-...7-01-Sale-I.htm

I'm afraid it's not no stock but this item is not available here in Malaysia
Maybe for UK market

takes too long to order now
schneider malaysia dont have so cannot order

i am just gonna get the single 45A switch without any 13A socket

Hmm it would be strange if it is maybe for UK market. I mean, you know the wiring and voltage differences?

So why not check other areas before getting that single 45A switch as the shop I am talking about, is a schnieder dealer I believe.

I don't really need a 13a socket cause this switch will be inside my cabinet. I dunno yet. If it's outside the better but I don't plan on hacking my wall

Ya induction. Most of the time I will leave it on. Turn on/off at the hob end only. Just for emergency turn off the double pole switch.

Hmmm...on and off I scared faster rosak.
Will see how.....now to find the switch