This is initial result. This is the most I can do with the machine. It is not completely finish sewing yet.

Before I continue with hand sewing, I test it first.


Looking fine to me. Height wise is as I want.

So I continue with hand sewing the rest of the part. It has to be hand sew because the opening of the pouch is so small, I cannot flip open it till the machine needle can reach it comfortably. This is the most time consuming job. But I always hand sew repair my clothes back in the uni time so this kind of feel nostalgia.



Finally, done! I cannot remember how long I spent. But definitely not 5 minutes job. Although I said I knew how to do it, I didn't say I can do it beautifully   
You can see that ugly, non-straight sew line by my hands.



Test wear! It works as it is anticipated.







Today morning I did my routine wash and I use this new toy. Instead of using the belt as shown in the picture above, I use back the ropes that I take out from the Standard Chartered bag. Because it feels softer, I think safer than the belt.

Some after-use experience:

1) The tool belt height level is good. My hand can reach to the bottom of the bag without the need to bend my waist.
2) The bag depth and the position where I sew it to the belt holder back piece is also just right for the trigger sprayer. The highest point of the trigger sprayer does not disturb my elbow. I can comfortably reach to the trigger spray head to grab it also.
3) When squat down, the trigger sprayer bottle sit firmly in the bag. Good, now it is singing "I Will Follow You".

Some improvement on next DIY attempt base on current observation:

1) It is better to use a slightly bigger mouth opening bag, or bag with a fold layer like the following:

Right now my bag is like envelope type, at the bottom there is no flat area. This actually is not a problem, it is the mouth opening. With a envelope style of design, once hang on waist, the mouth kind of tend to stay closer to the back piece, making me must use two hands, one to open the opening, another hand to insert the bottle. It will be ideal if the opening is open by itself, then I just need to put in and take out the bottle with one hand. Which is why I suggested fold layer bag, because the opening has larger area.

2) One belt level is enough, no need to make lower belt level on the back piece.
Overall, I realize that this recycle bag material is really a suitable kind of material to use, because unlike cloth, once you cut it, you will need to back fold it once and sew, in order to prevent the strings that made the cloth starts to come out by itself slowly. Whereas for recycle bag material, no such problem.

It is also soft. I think should be safe on paint as long as I do not brute force.

The only drawback is it is not waterproof. Although it get wet, but it still can be use continuously, just that a wet thing is next to your pants.

I will continue testing it for several times to see its durability. As for now, I am satisfy with this DIY attempt.

Cost: Maybe RM10? The bag is after all taken from my mother without informing her in advance. 
Appearance: Admittedly ugly.   
Practicability: Definitely working as I want it to so far.

Following the 2nd day polish and wax application (I also apply trim protectant), the 3rd day, I do front wind-shield glass polishing with cerium oxide. This is not going to be a very informative post with photos and videos, I just share what I did in the past week.

The cerium oxide I use is the OSREN glass polishing abrasive. According to OSREN it contains cerium oxide, so it can cut glass, but it did not state its concentration or cutting power. So this is my 1st time of using it and will serve as my guide for future use.

At first I masked up the area.


The product I use:



Nothing fancy, just common stuff.

The strategy is as follow:

1) Clay the wind-shield first with 3M claybar and wipe dry with waffle wave towel. Lubricant I use Optimum No-Rinse mix to a clay lubricant concentration. (left most in the picture)
2) Polish the glass using Flex 3401 Force Rotation Dual Action Polisher, with 4 3/8" backing plate, 5" glass polishing pad with interface attached. Product used OSREN glass polishing abrasive (with cerium oxide).
For corner area, I manually hand polish with glass polishing pad (the square looking thing in the picture).
(middle items in the picture)
3) Clean the glass to be free of polishing residue using Meguiar's Pure Clarity Glass Cleaner, wipe with lint free microfiber towel.
(2nd items from right)
4) Apply RAINX as hydrophobic coating by MF towel. Wait to dry to haze then use damp towel to wipe clean.
(1st item from right)
Because I keep my clay in a container filled with water, and coincidentally I was away from house for 3 months in a row, after I was back and re-use the 3M clay, I found out that the super stiff 3M clay has becomes super soft.
It is so soft to the extend of not usable. I have to sun dries it few days to reduce its moisture. Then now it becomes very soft and easy to use. I remember some members here complain that the 3M clay very stiff, this is one of the method you can use to make it soft.

The watermark on the wind-shield is gone after polishing. I cannot exactly sure it is due to the presence of cerium oxide or a non-cerium oxide polishing will also do the task. But I am satisfy with the product so far. I am not intend to remove any scratch (there is none) on the wind-shield so I cannot comment on the cutting power of the product.

As for the FLEX 3401, first time use it. It takes some effort to control as it constantly "walk" away or into you depending on your angle of holding. As long as it is flat on the surface, then the "walking" effect gone. Not hate it, just sharing a finding. Vibration is slightly lower than traditional DA. I think among all 3 machines I like this one the most.

I do not use traditional DA to polish the glass because I figure that I will need the force rotation power. A rotary should be the best for this task but I do not own one so this Flex comes in handy.

After applying RAINX so many times, I think I should assert that using a towel to apply it is not the best. Even after my glass polishing (glass very smooth), the wiper will still jiggle when wiping after RAINX. I will try to use a hard foam applicator cover with a lint free towel next time, like what you would use to coat your car paint.