Can anyone enlighten me on the change interval of Shell Helix High Mileage 15W-50 engine oil - 5,000, 8,000 or 10,000 km?

Do u mean shell helix ultra with pureplus technology? I thought the oil isn't too bad?

Stop using Shell Helix if you can opt for other brands like Liqui Moly, Wruth, Torco. Even if you want to get those big brand names you should be going for something like Castrol. Saying Shell is good... ahem very obvious it's not.

The additive is different. and that's what made them better. LM ceratec, MoS2 those are the additive which will smothen your ride by miles. Pouring the engine oil out from the bottle itself differs.  They are greyish dark color engine oil and some are green in color.

   

very obvious you never used them before. 

wkc5657 's post

And again, all I'm asking is to stay relevant and technical instead of paying placebos/feel/butt Dyno, whatever you want to call it.

And to humor you a bit with some googling
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...938#Post4185938

I would recommend you to change your ATF every 30k instead of 60k.

Outside sc standard is about 20k km for atf change

So according 7th gen Accord manual my eo change 10k n filter 20k it's safe to follow?

And atf is 100k km or if severe 40k km.

When u mean factory not using synthetic is for eo only right? Atf should be using the standard atf. I'm asking because now used amsoil atf which said to double the atf interval which should be 200k km on normal driving. I travel highway mostly so it's not severe but 200 k km does seem very long.

It confuses us consumer because 4s used different interval and outside workshop use their own interval, it seems many people will change much more often than manual.

Hi guys which type and brandof engine oil are suitable for honda Jazz 1.4l Y2003 and Honda CR-V 2.4 Y2014? Are fully synth 5W-20 are sufficient enough? Or should I go further lighter? Kindly seek your enlightenment. Thank you.

Any advice on EO for w205?  Sc using petronas oil, not bad in my opinion! Just Wanna try out others! I used to use chemlube but it's getting too expensive!

Shell Helix Ultra
Castrol Edge
Mobil 1

This 3 names should have the relevant approval from MB. Not sure 229.3 or 229.5.

Petronas Syntium 3000E is also good. Are you using this?

The only REAL proper way of changing ATF is using a "dialysis" machine, to suck up and refill at the same time with the correct pressure and temperature. Not many workshops have this kind of machine.

A normal drain releases about half of the ATF, up to 40% can be left inside the torque converter module. If the old ATF already very badly degraded, any new fluid's additives will be "eaten up" within a month, so need a lot of drain and refill to really change the ATF. Better just go look for the dialysis process type to save your money and effort.
In current times, this statement of yours can start to get skeptical.

Car makes now designs cars to last just around a product lifecycle, which is around 7 to 8 years reliably. Beyond that, pretty much on your luck and some planned preventative maintenance. 

Because any longer than that, is quite a waste of resources as over engineering = additional costs. Car makes now have the inherent "ploy" for users to change cars more frequently. Gone are the days of really reliable, hard wearing workhorses, and easily maintained mechanical layout planning. Do you realise that ATF fluid dip stick are getting rarer in recently released cars? Do you realise the term of "lifetime/maintenance free" start popping out? Do you realise that the engine bay is getting more messed up and more inaccessible compared to cars of past 1 or 2 decades ago? Car makes are indirectly causing consumers to spend more on cars and hence can make more money. 

To be frank, the really long extended maintenance intervals is some what part of the "ploy" i mentioned earlier. Let the car run at the barest minimum maintenance standards so it will "break down" around the time of car change. This trend is more obvious on non asian brands, but even beloved asian car makes are going into this direction. Well, i guess drivers themselves are partly to blame as they want hassle free motoring without the hassle of thinking about maintenance. Small part break down, change the whole module/set; break down bad enough, just change whole car. This also explains why subscription based motoring is gaining traction.

I have a differing perspective, engineering and ingenuity can come hand in hand. Just whether how much willingness for repair-ability was engineered during product design and R&D.

But i guess due to the common "industrial practices" and the need for cheap, simplified and quick assembly/manufacturing process, (and even more so to cut cost), things are now built for complete replacement instead of repairs in mind.

In the end of the day, manufacturers no longer equate quality to long lasting. The quantum for quality for consumers now shifts to user touch points/tactality, ease of use, and some form of geeky-ness. In short, more of the surface points to have the first wow effect to attract the consumer. Product/brand loyalty is getting shorter as choices more abound now. Good side is that consumer have more choices, manufacturers compete on the edge for even better offerings, product have more/better features. Downside is, more wastages or rubbish created as things obsoletes faster than ever. Even car lifecycles have shorten a little and approaching towards 6+ years.

For example, my family still uses a really old National microwave/convection oven that is currently over 30 years old. All the function still works despite the surface has yellowed quite noticeably. It even survived a horrible "bugs fest" after some food was absent minded-ly left there for almost a month and left to fester. It still survived the ordeal after a thorough wipe down inside.

I'm looking to upgrade from Petronas Synthium 800 SE 10W-30 (Semi Synthetic) to following (Fully Synthetic) for my Saga VVT, which one better

Petronas Synthium 3000 SE 5W 30

Shell HELIX ULTRA 5W-40

what types of engine oil is the most suitable for 18yo car? ae111 to be exact

I was eyeing on the shell high mileage too
how about shell high mileage 10w40?

% unknown.

never been disclosed by sellers/manufacturers also.
so personally, semi is what i would avoid.

0w20 naturally a little noisier/louder/harsher that xw30 and xw40. Just watch out for excessive oil consumption.

Check it next morning when the engine is cool, that will show the proper indication.

Hi, would like to get some advice. Have vios ncp92 since 2013 with 80k mileage. Tried first round with Eneos 5w30 semi. want try full synth.

Any recommendation for normal driving? (no high revving etc). Was doing normal city driving and now new job need to travel for audit quite frequently.

Saw this shell ultra 5w40 but some bad and some good review. Will this be thick for 5 year old car?

Looking balance performance (fc and power)

Thanks!