45-50 ish per 946ml, i only buy 4 bottles.
no need 5 bottles.

not really as expensive as 3xx even if you buy 5 bottles.
that's why i already told you last time, you sendiri think too much.

You quoted my post without reading it?

anyone who visits this con9lan7firm regret.

show me your API certification first.

diesel?
regardless on diesel/petroleum, just get the latest API specification certified engine oil.

please refer first page for info.

any API SN engine according to your manufacturer recommended viscosity/ambient temperature viscosity ranges.
if pug is as sloppy as most manufacturer, they'd put some really stupid/dated rating like API SG, which isn't exactly low SAPS also.

Honda japan/USA no prob... Honda Malaysia...
http://paultan.org/2014/11/27/honda-malays...ew-engine-oils/

hopefully someone can clarify la

different product range.
signature series being top of the line, non api certified.
XL = extended life
OE = normal EO
both XL/OE API SN certified.
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...nyName%3Damsoil

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto...ine/?filters=73
dunno pricing for XL/OE but can use above as reference.

if xw30 is ok, xw20 should be of no problem.
If it is, then next oci go back to xw30. simple.

signature series may be excessive for you if you're not into the extreme OCI thing/minor performance/smoothness boost (since it's their top of the line signature series lol)... the additives are just way overboard lol. (hence not API certified)
i went for it only because the bottle was pretty (got signature on it lol), and it is cheaper than Torco SR1 0w20 which was what i initially wanted to go for however they don't have 4 bottles at that time, only 2.

no idea on getting OE series in Malaysia, just ask around.

Iswara is still on the xw30 Motul H Tech 100 plus, still a looooooonnnggg way to go until drain, which yes i am tempted/planning to go for 0w20
my sis complained on cold start sluggish since the valves clearance were tightened for my track performance purposes... and sluggish cold start? 0w20 is PERFECT

no idea, not bothered on Honda brand.
SC/mainstream branded EO = you pay for the brand. and i already commented on paultan blog, the damn thing isn't even API SN or even API certified at all unless someone want to point out who's the exact OEM for this honda new oil that i'm lazy/not bothered to check.

if you can dig back your manual and see it's viscosity range, +/- xw10 from that value shouldn't be of any issue.

yes and no.
it ultimately depends on your engine oil specs assuming they are from reputable brand (and preferably API SN certified)

refer to my youtube videos and UOA lab test result if you're still in doubt.

ACURA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC <--- different label.

HONDA GENUINE SYNTHETIC BLEND
HONDA GENUINE ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC
HONDA ULTIMATE FULL SYNTHETIC

all these also don't match.
the one in Malaysia have no "ULTIMATE"
and from paultan it's not synthetic blend also.

those still on Honda Genuine are non SN.

that's why i ask again, anyone wanna clarify?

API does require you to CLEARLY state your brand/model/labels etc.
anything different, have to re-certify.
So with that, yes different and to me not certified unless proven otherwise/wrong which i have requested until now no sound.

that's why i also hate Mainstream companies/EO lo... but can't blame them also la, willing buyers, willing scammers.
like our god car.

HOLLLYYYY SHEEET LM FINALLY TOOK MY EMAIL TO HEART AND API (re, as they were api certified back in the 2008/2009 and before iinm) CERTIFY THEIR PRODUCTS

anyways.
can't just look at TBN alone, other specs (PDA/MSDS etc, for VI, actual viscosity ratings, HTHS, flash points etc), or VOA (virgin oil analysis)/UOA would be better.

example, even if TBN is 9, however other additives aren't good enough (say, calcium) or strong enough, the rate may deplete faster than say, a TBN 6.
if anything, i still had 6.3TBN after 8500 km on the amsoil signature series 0w20.
although the lab guys mention that TBN depletes at very high rate during the initial stages of the engine oil, however it'll start to slow down half way, which does make sense as the 8500km rate of TBN depletion certainly wouldn't be able to make it till 40k km (25k miles).

Then there's always other additives, friction modifiers etc.
hence the user feedback of "x oil smoother than y oil"

API is always the safe bet as chances of going wrong is much lesser. remember, it's NOT easy to get it certified, as you need money (some companies choose not to certify as they don't want to pay, and/or add to their product cost), and the fact that emissions/cat-con protection etc is taken into account, while at the same time you have to protect your engine wear on very stringent tests at insane temperatures/hours.

i'm comfortable on the signature series/300v as i'm going to do UOA anyways... and they are products that represent the very company/brand itself. (should look at 300v ads/youtube videos rofl)

efaceninja
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf

semi synthetic, while amsoil boasts being the first in synthetics, and the XL/OE are all fully synthetic
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/moto.../?code=XLZQT-EA

now the main difference between both (since they are API SN/ILSAC GF5 certified anyways) is the base stock, which on paper specs aside the TBN, looks like generally the same.

i would have thought that the VI amsoil would reign superior, however it looks like LM offset it with more VII's, while amsoil saves on VII, and dump in more detergent (for the longer OCI)

=edit=
this is what lm says:


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 28 2014, 05:33 PM

do post the price on the special tec AA, because semi syn for a premium doesn't quite sit well with me

synthetic technology.

not fully synthetic.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...yName%3Daddinol

Diesel only, so in that regard LM better

basically additives lo (as per my sharing on previous pages/pinned on page 1)

no, you're not understanding correctly.
it just means that it's too much effort for car manufacturers to deal with additives.
and not all additives are worth it, and worse some could potentially harm your engine. (especially in the long run)

mos2 = Molybdenum disulfide
ceratec = ceramic nano particles
WS2 = Tungsten Disulfide

then there's the ever popular PTFE teflon (Polytetrafluoroethylene)
tufoil god damnit link previews on pdf


and look, the true gods of lubricant:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...t&Number=478700
what, year 2006 thread? lol

=edit to overcome forum shit code=
wkkay

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 1 2014, 11:19 PM

AFAIK edit pings don't work, so... yea
wkkay

this grandmother story i've been preaching since last year december. now also december liao.

total seems fine to me
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...mpanyName=total

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...yName%3Daddinol

label incorrect.
not even API Certified.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Dliqui%2520moly
not even API Certified.

special tec semi synthetic is (with the pricing of full synthetic and wrongly marketed as full synthetic by local market)

nope it does not.