With USB 3, cheap HDD and SD cards, storage and transfer speed is a lot cheaper/better now than many years ago.
Unless you're shooting with a medium format, picture size should never be an issue.

Definitely.

1 RAW file from a 60D should be about 20MB
A 64 GB card can store about 3.2K images.
Far more than enough for any single day event including weddings.
So you don't have to worry about changing cards halfway through.
Now, videos will be a different story.

Before you say that a 64GB with a good speed (40MB/s) is really expensive...
Nowadays You can get one for way below RM100.
www.amazon.com/dp/B00AV3XK62

What will you get ?
Far better dynamic range and details.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 24 2014, 10:20 PM

Let's say Full sized 18MP raw will be about 25MB (average)
That's still 2.5k images
For a 6 hours event, you'll have to take 7 pictures every minute continuously to reach that.

If the person leave quickly enough, can still try to align it later.
The align layer function in photoshop does come in handy sometimes.

Yeap, you're right.
Anything longer than a burst shot... I wouldn't be comfortable not using a tripod.

Finally started editing another batch of convocation photos.

Organized and arranged by me, shot together with my friend.
Used a Nikon system though and a tele lens.

Edited


Raw


And some other images








Steps used
- Basic Lightroom adjustment
- Frequency separation
- Liquify
- Merge with a different exposure
- Color Efex Pro
- Smoke brush

Settings
- ISO 640
- 1/8 Shutter speed
- f/4
- 500mm
- One strobe on each side

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Dec 26 2014, 01:18 AM

Check the connection pin of ur battery and charger.

What's your battery health level ? (Check through camera menu)

Lithium Ion Battery lifespan will be shorten if you always use it till it's completely flat.

Regardless, this seems like the connection issue.
The LP-E6 metal connectors are small and fragile.

Yes, It is not advisable to completely drain Lithium Ion batteries every time you use.
Regardless if it's a camera battery, phone or laptop.

And the metal connector on the charger.
One of my LPE6 battery have a slightly broken connector. Makes charging a bit difficult.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Dec 22 2014, 01:49 PM

It's essentially a really effective way to clean your image of distractions and imperfections.
Usually we just use a clone/heal tool but sometimes it just sucks. (remove blemish but colour is out)

Frequency separation is the solution to that problem.

Splits your image into a layer containing the details/texture and a layer containing the tones/colours.
I can then proceed to heal/clone the texture layer (wrinkles, harsh shadows, small blemishes) without worrying that I may screw up the colour.
Then I will brush (low flow value) on the layer containing the tones and colours to remove overexposed spots and fix any large blemishes.

F stoppers have a pretty detailed guide on this
https://fstoppers.com/post-production/ultim...-technique-8699

It may seem incredibly troublesome, so I just record the actions and have the macro for it.
Frequency separation with just a click of a button.
(You still need to do the healing/cloning and brush by yourself... and that can take a very very long time if you're a perfectionist)

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Dec 25 2014, 01:04 AM

No problem.
It's actually an industry standard technique to "fix things" like shiny(oily) faces, overexposed or harsh shadows.

A bit of a change rather than the gear talk.
I realize that there are not that much information sharing other than "which gear" should I get/use in this thread.

I feel there are quite a bit more we could all share in this thread.
Great locations to shoot, how to tackle tricky situations, pre-shoot planning, post production, marketing, workflow etc etc.


For me, one of the biggest recent aha moment was finding the joy of using a cheap wacom tablet and brush with low flow on photoshop.
I've always been using opacity and ugh... if only I find out on the use of flow earlier lol.

I like how the green light and the orange lighting makes the picture a bit more punchier

I don't see why can't we discuss all of these on this thread.
It always seem like a sharing thread among Canon users.

When the location is relatively dark with only very warm lights available (and no flash/strobe).
Don't bother with taking photos, just eat.

Even with the correct white balancing, the texture/colour of the food will be slightly dull.

It's not that I've a bone to pick with you.
But, if you mean

Setting in camera to Kelvin 5000 before shooting raw

vs

Setting in lightroom to Kelvin 5000 after shooting raw (regardless if in camera you set it to 2500 before shooting)


Then there is absolutely no difference in the final image at all.
Zero.

Of course, it will affect what it shows on your camera LCD and that can be useful information.



That said, if you mean other factors like
1. Varying white balance in the same image (some parts warm, some parts cool)
2. Weird coloured light that cause tones to go vary


Then yes, those will still be very troublesome to deal with even in raw
However nothing you do in-camera before capturing an image will do much good too.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Dec 29 2014, 01:06 AM

Your link just confirmed what I said.

To summarize your link
- Changing WB in a raw conversion software(Lightroom, Canon DPP) will not result in any drop of quality(lossless). As good as changing it in camera
- Changing WB in Capture one Pro, Canon DPP, Lightroom, in camera jpeg will result in slightly different images. But output of lightroom in 5000K regardless if set in camera or during export will yield the same result.

To quote them;
Hmmm, I'm just sharing my experience of the limitations I encounter.
Been there, done that.
I'm also doing my part to correct any mistaken myths/notions newcomers may encounter.


Have you thought perhaps I do know what I'm doing and you should double check your facts first?

Actually I meant an image with some parts cool and some parts warm would be hard to edit.

But you're right, varying colours (changing Kelvin) in camera is very helpful to get it right.
Getting it right in camera helps a lot with visualization as well.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Dec 29 2014, 02:22 AM

Yeah. Don't we all.

Nice photos. It's been a quite a while since I last went on a Holiday.
I'll consider Taiwan.

I remember we used to have an active forumer (Sniper, I think) on this thread who is from Taiwan.
Always see his street-photography taiwan photos too.

Cheap food is always good ! (No dietary restrictions)
Ok, I'll probably consider fall or spring. Wouldn't want to escape the heat in malaysia only to bear the heat in taiwan. thx.