Moire is caused by spatial compression, so shooting at 720p will definitely make it more obvious compared to 1080p.
However 650D raw is barely even touching 720p at lesser than 30fps. Anything more will give you less than 10 seconds of footage.
Just shooting raw won't help with moire. Shooting raw while zoomed in will eliminate moire.

Nah, I record 60fps on regular H.264 (60D, 600D, D600, D3300)
I don't face any moire in most condition.
Unless of course I'm actually pointing my camera at stripes(or any repeated patterns) on purpose.

And for slow-mo(only time I shoot 60fps), my preference is always close-ups (people) or a properly framed shot. Having a thin DOF helps too.
It's not hard to avoid the most obvious part of moire if you've control of the scene (for people scene).

Sometimes moire is really unavoidable(like in your case), shoot 1080p, zoom in record, get an additional screw on AA filter or post process.
If that still isn't good enough, you need to change gears.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 3 2014, 10:18 PM

I wouldn't think there is much difference compared to EOS M magic lantern.
Raw on ML is still very wobbly.

As for video quality, you'll probably benefit more from cinestyle (technicolour or marvel)
It's quite painless to implement and the benefits are obvious(bump in video dynamic range).

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 3 2014, 10:32 PM

It works, you just need to pay

Alternatively, Magic Lantern will work too.

Does it work on later cameras like 5D3, 6D, 70D and 7D2 ?

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 6 2014, 10:40 AM

Nope.
I can roughly estimate how much that extra few% covers anyway.

It's tough getting conned but it does happen.
They'll probably give you a really hard time if you try to swap now.
Just have to google the price/shop/advice before getting anything in the future.
With a smartphone and a good internet, it's easy to google on the spot too.


70D is far better than the outdated 60D.
60D is a pretty good camera on it's own though.... so just go outside and do your best to make your money's worth.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 12 2014, 08:51 PM

Hoya is sold as Kenko in Japan.
Kenko and Hoya are from the same factory/company.

Honestly nothing I'm really bothered about.

Other than the Hoya HD 77mm filter being stucked on my canon 70-200 f/2.8

They weren't kidding when they say "hardened" glass. The ring is really solid too.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 14 2014, 09:00 PM

Yeah, they're cheaper by a few %

Regardless, do not skimp on CPL and ND (especially ND) filters.
Quality difference is much more noticeable than a regular UV filter.

Go for B+W if possible.
Cheap/mid range ND filters can give you a colour cast.

It's just some fancy numbers.
Yes, it's based on stops.
A 3 stop filter is relatively cheaper and will not degrade your quality as much as a 8 stop filter.

CPL doesn't do much. One of my most underused equipment. I would rather save the amount for a proper ND filter.
- Reflections, it removes some at some angles. I find avoiding reflections in the first place to be a lot more practical. Besides reflections can benice.
- Removes polarized light (TV screens), eh, when would I need to do this ?
- Deeper blue skies. Photoshop does this easily. I bought color efex pro 4 anyway. Might as well use it.


ND is useful. But like I said, cheap ones will give you color cast.
If you can live with it, sure. If not, you may find yourself spending more in the long run.

Also, at least a 77mm or a 82mm filter thread.
Then get step down adapters.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 14 2014, 11:45 PM

When getting an ND filter, the more stops it can go, the more flexible.
How else you're going to get the smooth long shutter during daylight ?
A low stop wouldn't do much in this case.

I once made this mistake, I've first purchased a Hoya 77mm 3 stop filter.
It was barely useful. All it did was to bring my shutter below 1/200 at 5pm so my flashes could sync.
Who cares about quality when it is barely useful in the first place.

If you intend to stop down to seconds during the day. Get the 10 stop.

Oh, for micro 4/3, forget about the 77mm limitation then.
As for price, Black Friday is coming.
Expect discounted price. I bought a 32GB 800X CF card for USD 48 including international shipping. The same card cost RM 300 in Malaysia.


Nowadays I just use a variable ND filter.
For video. To reduce shutter speed to 1/(2*camera fps).

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 15 2014, 02:20 AM

You can try LEE filters.
However they're not cheap and they're not using the screw on filter type.
Other than that, I'm not sure. I've a Hoya 3 stop ND filter. It's ok.

For local Malaysian pricing, I refer to YL, Shashinki (those tend to be slightly pricier than street price) and another local LYN forumer site, Mauinsons.
For US pricing, Amazon since they support international shipping and I've an Amazon account.

Not possible
Magic lantern can't do that.

Nope.
It won't work.

It depends on what you shoot.

I'd go with the filter thread type.
Isn't convenience and size the reason you switch from a DSLR?

About a month ago, I posted some photos on a convocation concept.

Well, I've just finish edited those backlogs.












Hijacked a lecture theater
Setup a dark background
Used dryice (bad mistake, should had used powder)
Setup some lighting stuff and just shot the night through.

Some editing done PP.
Mainly removing creases on the background
Added smoke
Some lighting adjustment
Crossprocess the smoke

- Just a few more photos... before editing another batch of convocation photos lol

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 18 2014, 01:23 AM

Thanks !

Didn't want the usual boring convocation photos.
There are like 1001 of those already.

Wanted to be different by showing graduation and the things they do as their profession.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 18 2014, 12:09 PM

That's a good idea and I did swap some of the graduation hat for engineers hard hat.

Not that much resources need too as some already do have a full jumpsuit or a hardhat.

That said, it's still a primarily convocation shoot and just the mortarboard isn't enough to convey the message.
Imagine ur convocation shoot with your friends... Without the robes. It'll be more of a themed portrait than a convo theme shoot...

Which although not wrong, the subjects won't be happy lol

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 21 2014, 05:56 PM

Sounds like the flash tube GG'd
If you need a flash, I guess it's time to get a new one.

Nice long shutter speed photo !
To make this even better, you can try
1. Multiple exposure. The trees and rocks around are a little underexposed. Having a little details and a tad bit brighter would be good (but not as bright as the water)
2. If possible and if the skies are blue with clouds, merge the exposure of the skies as well so it would not be pure white.

Yes.
Personally I'll do
1 for the waterfall.
1 for the people.
1 for the rocks and trees
1 for the skies.

Merge exposure using Photomatix and photoshop.
Just do not overdo the HDR.
Rocks are still suppose to be darker than water. Not pitch black dark, but still darker.

Common HDR mistakes are oversaturation, overdoing clarity and contrast.

This post has been edited by LegendLee: Nov 24 2014, 11:10 AM