B segment vs C segment wor Persona is also under the C segment category.


This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 6 2014, 05:31 PM

How's your Waja's handering? Better than a boat, I suppose? Nowhere as good as a Kancil I suspect, just like every Poorton cars, because it's a Poorton.

From Proton. Proton Edar or Proton Service Center. RMxxx bumper + respray + workmanship. Guaranteed original.

Sounds completely like shoddy workmanship. Is Poorton trying to rush the production of the SV or something? Those issues that you are facing are easily solvable provided that
a) the water leakage source is from an improperly placed weather sheet/seal or something similar
b) the door is hard to close due to the misalignment of the door striker plate.

But yeah, insist on a new car.

Doesn't really look particularly eye-catching. Maybe it's the angle.



I want this one.

His front bumper, if properly fitted, looks much better than the one made by R3 for the Persona. Somehow it just doesn't look nice.

If my memory serves me right, yes.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 8 2014, 09:15 PM

Hi.

There's not much you can do about the heat as the Campro engine runs rather hot (average of 88C during operation). If you feel worried however, make sure the coolant is changed regularly and properly as well(as in to use distilled or RO water rather than tap water to fill the radiator after pouring coolant in to prevent rust). Good things aren't cheap, cheap things aren't (sometimes) good.

Spend more on the radiator coolant (2L should be enough for both the radiator and excess tank), and get about 15L of distilled water (RM1.8) each if you want to flush the radiator, or just about 5L or so if you're just topping up the radiator and the excess tank and not filling the entire cooling system (which includes the coolant pathways through the engine).

Edit: If I'm not mistaken, the last time I tried topping up the radiator, I used about 3L or less only after pouring the coolant in. Whatever it is, just pour it in slowly if you don't want to waste your precious coolant until it reaches the top of the radiator. If you have a radiator attachment that allows air bubbles to be vented out of the radiator while preventing the water from flowing out under pressure, that would be great. Otherwise the best alternative is probably to drive the car and let the air bubles flow out from the excess radiator coolant line to the excess tank and out from there (there are two hoses; one which goes into the excess tank: the one for the coolant retrieval, another for the air bubble(s) I believe).

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Jun 8 2014, 09:24 PM

Not necessarily always green. It depends on the coolant itself. For my case, I bought Castrol Radicool (SF or something, forgot), and it was blue in color.

Yes, you can fill the radiator yourself. You can empty it by opening the pet-cock located on the bottom left of the radiator (from your point of view when facing the engine from the outside and the front of the car). Once the water stops flowing out, screw it back tight and pour the coolant in (33% mix of total cooling system content), which works out to 1.67L in the radiator and 333ML in the excess tank if I remember correctly. The rest fill it up with distilled or RO water, and slowly to prevent overflowing. Check back regularly for a few days/weeks to see the level of the radiator content as it will reduce as the air bubbles escape from the system, if any.

That's cause everyone has different priorities when it comes to their cars?

Below RM100,000, I'd probably only consider mostly Proton cars, but that's because I'm more biased towards a car's handling. I wouldn't want something that seems/is stable on a straight line but sucks when it comes to cornering. Plenty of examples on the road, you know? Lets be honest, Lotus R&H may seem like a marketing gimmick to some, but it DOES work. Their cars may not be known for quality but I don't think you can deny that the cars drive pretty well compared to many others under the aforementioned price range.

If I really want to bother about interior quality and stuff, I'd look at the cars over the range of 140,000, and not at some cars that are better in relative comparison at the range of 100,000 and below, but are still just "in between" for interior quality and stuff, aka nothing much to shout about.

Fuel injector cleaner? I don't think it should be much of a problem. I'd be more worried if it was an engine oil additive or something like the X1R.

Yours is still under warranty ke? Help me claim middle air vents. RM20 starbucks give you.

Yes. Please get chopped by outside workshop.

I've seen the work done by some car detailing shop called Premium Wash or something at Kota Damansara. All I can say is that the owners might be paying a lot for something pretty bad. Shiny car but plenty of machine polishing marks over the car body .

If you get a machine/polishing tool drill attachment, the results between it and hand polishing is like heaven and earth. You'd have to kill yourself to get the same results with hand. Both can be equally tiring though because the machine can be quite heavy.

I use a polishing tool attached to a drill (Megs DA Power system), and the vibration and the weight of the drill is a pretty bad combination. Trains muscles though

I want free R3 rims .

Mhmm. It takes quite long to produce the same results. Time is not what I or most people have, unfortunately, and with just a semi covered porch. Rain and sun

What's the difference between the RM7 and RM8 filter? If it's better I don't mind paying extra.

Buy lo .

A correct size Allen Key.