Technically, its good. Reality, it can only tahan lama a bit...but really wasting time have to go specific shop pump, some more at night close. Normal air can pump anytime, day and night at any location be it north pole or south pole.

Either you call the wrong SC, they misquote or they are thinking abt gear oil change instead.

Recent??? Lots of City and Civic already suffer from rattling sound since 2005. Since its a Honda, the rattling sound also sounds nicer mah !!!

It started when they started to use inferior ala hard plastic for dashboard. Most of rattling comes from dashboard only tho unlike Proton, can come from any parts in the car.

Installed outside at any tyre shop, cheaper and more professional.

I used to wait for the new Civic FL ala the FL of American version that FIXED most of the weakness of the Civic, ie, massively improved dashboard material, improved sound insulation, upgraded braking system, new good looking rear lamps, new lowered front bonnet and grill.

When they FL over here, only slight cosmetic changes and none of the above changes that changed all the US reviewers opinion from a heavily criticized new Civic to a thumbs up Civic.

It seems Asian countries like Malaysia can live with sub-par quality coz we no complain mar.

Darn disappointed then coz thinking of getting a new one then....but now no money liao. All money spend on eating jiken. Russian jiken, ckt with jiken, nasi lemak tambah jiken, kfc finger licking good jiken, kari jiken.....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 9 2014, 01:11 PM

I'm going to change tyres these weekend or next to CDrive 2,

Please do tell what's the pro and cons of goodyear assurance triple max over CD2.

No money, so go further. Now reaching 2mm..

I'm tempted. Don't know the RM30-40 different per tyre over C-Drive 2 is worth it or not.

The last time I asked, it ranges from RM200 to RM230. However I got 1 in Klang a few months, at RM190, the cheapest I can find. Now don't know price still valid or not coz tyres prices nowadays only goes up and never down.

If he's talking abt the stock bosch, forget it. Brake dust tainted product. If its other bosch, then I no comment.

If you want stock performance, then go for FBK also can. I'm using it for my front. Less than RM90 ~ RM100. Same performance as stock bosch but with very little brake dust. Now my front rim is silver while my rear rim with stock bosch always retained its metal grey color.

Frankly, at 37K mileage and engine at its prime, what makes you want to add "special addictives" as a GOOD engine oil can already do a better job overall?

I no more comment.

I go hide back in my den....no want to comment further coz my reputation is in tatter...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 16 2014, 01:09 PM

#CDM25 ?????

Hoo.....I actually pity her, she IS really regretting her action. Rage sometimes happened and blinded someone's action. Damn regret afterward.

btw...

Everyone, click on link by Quaza and Elephant. Concentrate on that CDM news....forget gear ratio thingy, forget gear ratio thingy.....that cavino already died makan jiken. This new cavino no eat jiken...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 16 2014, 02:09 PM

Muslayer,

Would you mind checking if your new Goodyear Triplemax tyres many sipes are deep (good) or shallow like stock NCT5 (where after 50% worn, sipes are almost gone, so does the performance)?

Apology accepted.... My minyak title still got a bit power left....

Actually my own data is quite dated, so nowadays not sure how to respond if the newer addictive are effective or not. So I have to avoid commenting on this issue also...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 16 2014, 04:41 PM

Oh WS2, I read about these IF tungsten disulphide a couple years ago but back then, no product was ever used using this powder or solid lubricant. So casual users like us have very little or no data on it. Heard it used to be very expensive thus although its an excellent lubricant but cost is not practical then.

Not sure abt the current tech tho.

WS2 is a solid-based or originally powder-based addictive mixed with other oils (probably mineral or high grade minerals) with very high lubrication capabilities with its IF nano particles that can adhere to surface and fill in gaps (excellent), it might bond very well onto the engine parts which is a good thing to protect the parts.

However as with all other solid addictive, my main worry is when over long term, these bonded film might also accumulate sediments from the engine oils over a long period of time especially when constantly used near 10K mileage in our humid and dusty driving environments.

I'm not sure if it might eventually clogs the valve and pipeline of the engines over long period of its usage. Unless the brands also produced engine oil THAT you used along with this addictive (which guaranteed compatibility of addictive used), nobody can be sure that these addictive might cause any adverse chemical reaction with other brands addictive. Maybe the nano thingy helps hold sediments in suspension and not sticking to it.

Will this add. addictive chemical reaction cancelling each other out or make its worse or better, nobody can fully testified to its long term effect due to the variety of different engine oils quality used out there.

GOOD quality engine oils are usually formulated to provide very balanced addictive performance between its anti-wear and lubrication properties. Adding of external addictive might unbalanced these formulas and produce adverse effect.

I have to say, its all only in theory as no one can 100% guarantee it will work or not work with certain engine formulas, thus my adverse reaction to extra addictive not of the same brand as engine oil used. Unsure here does not mean addictive is no good, as a matter of fact, many has testified certain addictive working very well above stock oil properties and I can't rebuke that coz it might as well be true.

However due to my old-school thinking, with so many elements of "uncertain" long term performance and durability (no solid data backup yet) I usually avoid such addictive (although they might be highly effective especially with improved tech nowadays) and keep to proven GOOD engine oil / optimal change period schedule that has PROVEN to usually maintain a vehicle in tip top performance over a long period of time.

It is only my 2 cents and I might have been ENTIRELY WRONG ABOUT IT. A lot of other sifu probably can input in detail MUCH better than me coz I usually only know the overview and can likely KICK my ass again for bullshitting.
My view does not apply to racing kaki tho, these guys know what addictive to use to fine-tune boost their engine (albeit shorter life or not), so to give those extra oomph and performance by seconds.

Final conclusion of WS2 : I know nuts about it.....hahahahaha Cabut again....

ps..since I type so long since I very free now, bound to have a lot of mistake but I make sure no gear ratio was mention...ya...but other mistake I' don't know....if found, that is old Cavino with jiken comes alive typing, screw him...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 16 2014, 06:19 PM

Thanks to MUSlayer, I'm torn between CDrive 2 and Assurance TripleMax. Still checking if the many sipes that TripleMax relied on is cut deep enuf to last.....or just like NCT5, only last 50%, then sipes gone along with performance.

I'm using Panalite since my City days. Seems to have longer life and very few failure rate.