I'm supposed to switch tyres in these coming weeks. Becoming deeply concern with the reported unbearable noise of C-Drive 2 when worn. Either that or go for XM2 instead, much quieter or not?

SC used 5 bottles. That's means over 4 liters are needed. There's a lot of balance left and it was used to change the steering fluid as well.

Gua manyak confuse, my mind is set for CD2 earlier but then see so many complain abt the tyre noise.

Unlike some richfag, I cannot afford AdvanDB.

Performance wise, CD2 definitely trumped XM2. Longer life belongs to XM2. Question is CD2 punya noise when half worn is so bad meh or just a bit louder than usual only.

Now my NCT5 near tread indicator level liao, tyre noise is very bad liao. Have to change soon.

Gua pokai so did not change my tyre like last few years where once reach 3mm, change.

Yes, it will explode.

Press the right button till the mileage meter appear, that's the 2nd after time setting. Then press the left button and hold it till the meter reset to 0.

Do that every time after you refill to full tank. Then next time when going to refuel, jot down the mileage, fill full tank and then reset again.

You want me to teach you abc step by step in person, I have to charge $$$

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 20 2014, 11:57 AM

I used abt 20-30k mileage per year at minimum. My wife, 10K per year. We got 3 cars at home. So its possible to have low mileage vehicle especially if its a weekend car, daily take motor to work or home near working place.

Technically 10W30 can. Our engine using 3.7 liters of EO. So buying 3 liter pack will be a problem to refill sufficiently isn't it?

If you're using 40 rated all this while, changing to W30 might makan minyak coz your engine, piston, etc already sync and used to thicker lube. 2ndly campro iafm excel in mid to high speed runs. If you constantly do runs over 100km/h, with out hot engine and existing cooling system, W40 will be more suitable.

If you run W30 from the beginning then ok. Also without any reference, IMO, some of the reasons W40 was used as default for PE might be due to 2 things.

1. Outdated recommendation. (manual even recommend W50 that is rarely used for new cars at this range anymore).

2. Hot engine with existing cooling system. Our campro IAFM is not an exact duplicate (I believe only, no fact), of the newer Preve IAFM, so our engine might tends to runs a big hotter. w30 although suitable for city drive, does not do very well in higher speed highway runs in our engine. Newer engine with better flow efficiency, tighter tolerance and better cooling system got not problem with that tho..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 23 2014, 11:32 AM

15W40 got no difference with 10W40 in out weather. Usually semi syn and fully syn will have lower cold rating (15, 10, 5, 0) due to its nature in higher cold tolerance fluidity. Choose what lube you like as regardless of if its ow40 or 15w40.

Eh !!! Bukan APM kah? You install salah lagi?

I eat outside jiken, then go home eat ayam kampong..

If you want to change engine this way, may as well get a wira cheap cheap and modify.

You no need be scared the warranty will be cancelled if change engine or gearbox, I reassure you most of the car major warranties will be gone. So no need worry since you get a definite answer now.

Hit an LCP (lighten crank pulley), be it the budget Works Engineering or the premium Mytheo. Plug and play item, if needed just ask mechanic to switch it out if claiming major engine warranty. My small SC did not even bother to see if its a mod, just claim only.

LCP will shorten the time when upshifting the gear while originally the stock gear box will initially hold it back for a while before shifting upwards.

That means it will switch the gear pretty fast and increase acceleration without car pulling the car back (PE got major tendency to do that). Thus without LCP, I won't even consider driving PE now

As for makan manyak petrol, 2 major points,

1. Your right leg. If you're one that like to tekan minyak, better go buy a viva to save FC, coz any car pun makan minyak if you don't change your driving style.

2. PE is a heavy car with an engine that has a weak lower torque. You got to live with it's makan minyak tendancies unless you go for lots of mid speed highway run. Either that or go change car to viva. You should have gotten a Myvi in that case.

For warranty, its generally for 2 years or 50K mileage whichever comes first. If you get dough and don't bother with warranty, then go ahead and switch the engine and gear box out..

However with the car weight and 1.8cc engine, I still think its gonna makan minyak. With increased power, your kaki will tekan more and more makan minyak. So how ar....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 26 2014, 11:27 AM

Coming from a previous car with a powerful engine to this pitiful powered car, sure you're going to regret left and right in terms of power and fc consumption.

I understand your frustration very well coz I curse left and right during jam and toll runs....

Try out LCP first. It would not even come near to matching your previous ride but it will "fixed" the lower end torque acceleration. I always get stuck in heavy traffic with an auto H-line. Frustration comes with all cars start jumping in front of you coz your acceleration is slow like a turtle. Tekan manyak manyak, makan FC and car surge in front a bit.

LCP remedy this issue to a satisfactory level. LCP used on a car with a strong low end torque like City is a waste coz don't see much difference but hit it on a weak low end torque engine with a reluctant gear box that does not want to switch upward when needed or downward when you want it....its a mod that PE auto tranny should not be without.

You might still not be satisfied based when compared with your previous ride but its a compromise.

Oops....read back....wonder why I use the word gear ratio...what I meant is the gear tends to switch in earlier rather than pull back the car engine.

Today I read back also I feel very embarrassed. Don't know why I post abt gear ratio pulak...

I'm going to hide my head under a bantal now...with my jiken...

Reminded me never to simply post rubbish technical explanation, will get shot down by sifus....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 25 2014, 09:00 AM

Double post

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 25 2014, 08:57 AM

I hope you're not hammering me again on the gear ratio thingy.....

The 2 top sifus here and the occasional pop in sifu here already does that...

Or else, I ask you pigi balik whatever countries your ancestor is from.....--->eric

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 25 2014, 01:45 PM

Oooi.....I mana ada say anything abt Mazda 3. Never say anything abt it except I like Mazda 6 look and dislike Mazda 3 rear look that seem a bit small in some post ages ago.

Shit, I wanna change my nickname liao..

If I know some idiot is gonna to link my post for "technical info", I should have change the post fast...

Just change just now, just in case. I gotta clear my name....but then again I did write that idiot post..

"LCP will shorten the gear ratio means it will switch the gear pretty fast and increase acceleration without car original gear ratio pulling the car back (PE got major tendency to do that). Thus without LCP, I won't even consider driving PE now." ----> Totally wrong. What I mean is, it will shorten the time when upshifting the gear, earlier than before LCP installation. NOTHING to DO with gear ratio...I gila liao when I wrote this earlier.

I think that will do....if some idiot repost that again.

I gonna go hiding somewhere....

btw when ppl read that post, they don't know I terlalu makan jiken till pening..

Up to now, I still don't why I put the word gear ratio there.....I know it got nothing to do with gear ratio (nothing can change that), but why why why....