It lotus tune is mostly on suspension setting, absorber setup, etc. Nothing to do with alignment and balancing thingy.

But what I heard from a tyre sifu is once the camber setting goes out more than 1 (anything less than 1, ignore), we really should adjust.

All my cars got camber screws due to camber going more than 1. Only Civic so far below 1, itu tyre man also say no need to adjust.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 13 2014, 01:24 PM

Actually you should go for air-cond servicing. Put it this way, you change your engine oil before it goes bad or after it goes bad?

The moment it is not cold (not out of gas), meant something spoil liao. Air-cond maintenance schedule are meant to minimize that risk. I myself followed a 40K air-cond servicing or abt 2 years whichever comes first schedule although some goes years and years without servicing. Someone engine oil never change for years still can jalan wat...but the engine won't last.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 13 2014, 01:29 PM

You actually did it in your car !!!!!

Aiyo, go find Izu, he got jalan to get jiken cheap cheap...no need to piap piap in car.

Itu cabin filter dust and pollen, not smell unless you're talking abt carbon filter. So your kentot smell still going to stick inside your car.

The stock abs is KYB or APM, I'm confused?

Persona can adjust lar, rear using multi-link. Only those using torsion beam for rear ala Saga, City, Vios, etc cannot be adjusted.

Ooi....Jason already cakap, it is ORIGINAL KYB. Not fake KYB. Another OEM for Proton but our Proton as Jason as re-confirm for me is APM stock. If I'm not mistaken, I think KYB is slightly shorter than the stock APM, not sure of that info tho.

Bad practice. If there is any situation that requires you to immediate accelerate and whatever, the seconds it takes to reengage gear might cost you.

Do what the safety experts recommend. Only change to N when you are at full stop.

No damage but if you suddenly have a need to reengage the gear again while slowing down, the cost of gearbox wear would not be worth the miniscule saving.

This poorfag calculative one coz poor mah. Already calculated whatever miniscule savings will be gone when you need to replace the gearbox due to constant "N" switching or if need to suddenly re-engage gear from "N" while moving. How much do they think they can save, really nominal.

God car, no need petrol also can fly..

Seriously tho, the new City with its CVT gearbox would likely best the lesser god car in FC.

I no cheapjing. My wife say I expensivejing coz I got high end smartfon, got ipad, got eat jiken when wifey is FOC...

After the above expenses, I become poorfag. Cheapjing got money no want spend, poorfag spend money till ah long come chopping...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 17 2014, 05:06 PM

I like PE performance/comfort balance setup of its suspension, handling, absorber system. Gonna use back stock also when the time comes..

I'm sure my persona got better fc than into lambo..or audi...

Yes, end the persona thread, nobody can talk about FC lor...

Some ppl want more performance oriented ride vs comfort balanced, so change harder suspension, lowered ride, bigger rims, etc.

Some ppl want bang ckt at back, so have to be comfort based, soundproof, suspension softer so can help bouncing, no need so much work for the couple to move....

Comparing FC with other is not going to help due to different driving conditions, style, traffic, city vs highway speed ratio, etc.

If you want to ensure your engine is in tip top condition, just change your engine oil every 5K (not 10K) to clean the engine frequently.

Decarbonise the engine, then go clean throttle body. Ensure air filter lasted no more than 20K mileage, change a new filter every 10-15K if possible. Change fresh gear oil every 20K at minimum. Make sure there is no leak in engine. If parts were already worn, go no choice, either live with it or change new ones, a good mechanic can do a thorough check and do recommendation.

Go install Lighten Crank Pulley by Works Engineering or Mytheo if you can afford it, if you want to avoid heavy footing during traffic jams.

An average of 8-9 liter / 100 km for a balanced mixed of highway and city runs. Pure city runs can go anywhere from 9-12 liter /100km. Heavy footer tak payah cakap, 13 liter and up. Pure highway runs can go about 7+ to 8 liters / 100km.

I used to do that for manual. Still would as we're usually experienced enuf to judge what gear to re-engage to. Besides we could control the clutch and slowly release to check if the gear ratio is correct when re-engaging.

Auto re-engage, depending on speed, it "might" drastically pulled back the car and produced wear (kena badly when my ECU harness disconnected while driving on halfway, shift to N, then back to D to re-engage). It has the gearbox protection to prevent outright damage but it "might" still wear it down faster. Auto tranny is way more expensive to replace and more prone to failure than manual.

As for jam, I do that too at times and its not going to increase the failure risk as it is practically idle. The increased wear might occur when the car is moving fast AND we re-engage the gear from "N". As for changing to "N" till full stop, there is not likely to be any damage but increased risk of accidents and wear if there is any sudden need to move before full stop. Practically all safety experts recommend NOT to do that as a safety driving guidelines.

Wearing faster does not mean outright failure, it just increased exponentially the RISK of failure and early failure. Some last for years even after abusing it. I consider that lucky.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 17 2014, 09:14 PM

More likely something to do with your tyre balancing or tyre tread already not even.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 19 2014, 11:37 AM