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 Lowyat.Net Watercooling Club V8, Your WCed rigs, discussions, ideas & etc

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pristine
post Sep 20 2014, 12:33 AM

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oh so clean!

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


sorry if your screen is small. whistling.gif

This post has been edited by pristine: Sep 20 2014, 12:33 AM
pristine
post Sep 20 2014, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(gxthelord @ Sep 20 2014, 01:13 AM)
what case is that on the right? so cute biggrin.gif
*
Obsidian, 750D

worklog
pristine
post Sep 21 2014, 04:25 AM

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QUOTE(gxthelord @ Sep 20 2014, 11:08 PM)
naisee~~ biggrin.gif Any itx or small matx case to recommend ka? with support for 240mm rad?
*
Air 240. brows.gif

QUOTE(pali_5373 @ Sep 21 2014, 12:31 AM)
guys.. anyone know where i can find cable comb locally?
*
I have! spares which I never used. clear ones from e22. shoot me a pm if you want them. smile.gif
pristine
post Sep 21 2014, 01:40 PM

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user posted image

Something I haven't seen in awhile. Full MIPS set!
pristine
post Sep 21 2014, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(Alem Salleh @ Sep 21 2014, 07:48 PM)
Guys.. Any recommended Case for 2 XSPC AX480, 2 EK-RES X3 250, 2 EK-D5 Vario X-TOP - Plexi.. 2 Loop build.. Looking to rebuild my previous RIG.. Other than 900D..  icon_rolleyes.gif  icon_rolleyes.gif
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enthoo primo, LDPC, silverstone tj 11, XSPC H2 (there's a forumer who's selling his, still in box brand new).
pristine
post Sep 21 2014, 08:01 PM

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QUOTE(Alem Salleh @ Sep 21 2014, 07:57 PM)
Thanks.. XSPC H2 looks great!!  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif
*
Link you up.

XSPC H2
pristine
post Sep 23 2014, 08:46 PM

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QUOTE(Zzorro @ Sep 23 2014, 08:40 PM)
oops.gif  Sorry sign0006.gif 
some wc stuff for sale anyone interested pm me..  biggrin.gif
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3353033&hl=
*
Dah lama PM. whistling.gif
pristine
post Sep 23 2014, 10:44 PM

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So, if anyone wants to do anything funny to their waterblocks, cases, or radiators, can check this out:

http://excellentmulticoat.com/content.php?id=7

Not sure if they do small order though. tongue.gif
pristine
post Sep 26 2014, 05:15 PM

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QUOTE(sai86 @ Sep 26 2014, 02:20 PM)
wta, planning to get Air 540 2moro. but i'm unsure if the psu side able to fit 5 x 3.5" hdd anot.
any comment?
(240mm top / 360mm front) haven't decide on routing yet, but this few days i'm reading alot of ppl build on Air 540 @ OC forum.
As finally decide to go WC from this end of the year.
*
You can ask HoNeYdEwBoY. He built in an Air540 before
pristine
post Sep 27 2014, 08:48 PM

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QUOTE(ruffstuff @ Sep 27 2014, 08:21 PM)
Guys, how do i get rid microbubles? The pump is so noisy because of these micro bubbles. The bubbles keep on developing because of the inflow water shooting up throught the reservoir top.  Something wrong with my loop or the pump is too fast?

user posted image

Watch the video here:

This is only pump running. No other component running.  The noise is just unacceptable, air cooling is far silent than this.
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First off, nice case!

As for your bubbly issue, you can stick something in the reservoir to just stir away the bubbles. Or.. just wait for them to go away, which will take a long time. As for pump noise, if you close the case is it still very loud? I don't think your pump is a PWM version. You've got a MCP 355 right? With a phobya nickel pump top?
pristine
post Sep 27 2014, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(ruffstuff @ Sep 27 2014, 09:23 PM)
MCP 355 with phobya top. With case close it is still loud. I can't even stand using the computer for more than 1hr.  How long does it take to get rid the air bubbles? The air bubbles keep on recreating due to the inflow keep shooting water to the top reservoir.
More pics:

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
*
Since it's creating it's own bubbles, getting rid of them won't help. The 355 doesn't allow for speed control so you'll need to find a way to adjust the speed of the pump either by buying a controller that's compatible with your pump or mod the molex header to feed 7V(I think it's 7) or less instead of full 12V. It'll slow the pump down.

More direct option is find someone selling an MCP35X and buy that and swap out your pump.
pristine
post Sep 27 2014, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(ruffstuff @ Sep 27 2014, 10:13 PM)
I think i may have improved the noise a bit. I removed the black hose inside reservoir ( thought it'll remove cyclones effect), and fill the reservoir as full as i can. Noise level seems acceptable now.
*
How is your pump mounted btw? If it's free standing, you might want to secure it. Damping the vibrations will reduce some noise from the pump.
pristine
post Sep 27 2014, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(ruffstuff @ Sep 27 2014, 10:26 PM)
That is one of the problem i had with this built, no way i can mount this pump with this tight configuration.  It is free standing. But due the phobya top, it is heavy and i don'f feel it gives any vibration.    sweat.gif
*
Yeah, the weight of the Phobya top is unbeatable.
pristine
post Sep 30 2014, 10:10 PM

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nice to see you're back in the game reiben05 thumbup.gif

QUOTE(gxthelord @ Sep 30 2014, 12:38 PM)
Hi to all the pros and all. I'm having a certain loop in mind and need you guys for input.

Will be trying to mod the Corsair H55 as GPU wb(750Ti), and connecting it to a H220(i5-3570k OCed 4.2Ghz).

It should be more than enuff using the 240mm rad on the H220 right?
I should run both pumps via the PWM splitter or just leave the H55 powered off running as a WB.
I'll be making a shroud and placing two fans to blow intake directly on the card to cool down the VRMs too. biggrin.gif

Things that I might need to change is the tubings and fittings to match the ones on H55 right. ^^
*
I wouldn't say more than enough. It's probably enough, depends on what temps you're going after.

If you're going to run both pumps, then you'll have to know which is the inlet and outlet of the H55 otherwise you're going to get into quite a mess.

If you're going to leave the H55 off, then take out the impeller if you can so it won't affect flow, even though it's probably negligible.

Yes you'll need to find tubing and fittings to match the H55.
pristine
post Oct 3 2014, 01:23 AM

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Something to read for those considering upgrading their pumps or buying the H220X

MCP50X Review
pristine
post Oct 8 2014, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 8 2014, 08:19 PM)
Hi guys/sifus,

I am thinking of venturing to water cooling since it seemed like the cool thing to do in PC modding/DIY.

Budget maybe not exceeding 1k? Generally doing light oc these days since my need for performance isn't as high as it was back then.
Are AIO/maintenance free solution advisable? Or ultimately it's still better to pick up the hassle/up front costs to go for full fledge water cooling solutions that will require maintenance once every few months/years? (changing the water/coolant etc? cleaning up the tubing/radiators?)

preference:
- no maintenance (once every few years replace fan, clean radiators from dust etc is fine)
- simpler solutions, however willing to learn/go through complications if the benefits are significant.

however looking at this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nepton...ax,3607-11.html
it looks like air cooling still has an edge? albeit it seems to be more expensive if you include the time to time fan replacement and what not? though it's probably the same for radiator fan replacements anyways.

Between the Corsair H110 and the Coolermaster Nepton 280l, which would be more recommended?
http://www.corsair.com/en/hydro-series-h11...quid-cpu-cooler
http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-li...er/nepton-280l/
Feel free to go through everything (pros/cons/pricing/performance etc) in detail between these 2, assuming AIOs are really the way to go for leak/hassle/maintenance free solution.

If i were to cool the graphic card as well i'd have to look for other solutions?

*disclaimer: yes admittedly i am a bit lazy to dig through/google everything (however i did some homework!) sweat.gif
*
For a budget not exceeding 1k, I'd recommend buying AIOs with expansion options or watercooling kits.

In terms of air cooling vs water cooling, if you pit high end air cooling vs basic water cooling at the same price point, chances are they'll either tie or air cooling will win. For water cooling to come out on top there are a few factors. Adequate surface area, good ambient temperatures, just to name a few.

For cooling expansion and silence, water cooling comes out on top. Together with aesthetics (in my books). My rig has 6x 120mm fans and 1x 200mm fan but don't run till I game or do anything intensive and the loudest thing in my room is either my ceiling fan, air cond or my air purifier. Even when I game the loudest thing in my room is still my ceiling fan/air cond/air purifier.

With you budget of 1K, I'd recommend going for an EK kit (from APES) or an XSPC D5 kit (from many places) or if you'd rather get a kit to plug and go, grab a Swiftech H220X. Any of these three will keep you water cooling for some time, with the option to expand in the future.

Tube maintenance has been cut down quite a bit with manufacturers improving their tubing to be plasticiser free or at least less and with existence of acrylic tube which is totally free of plasticiser.

As for coolant/water, just top up when it's low and you're good. Keep your radiators free of fat dust bunnies and fans spinning happy and you won't have issues with temperatures.

Going all out custom water cooling, if you're hell bent on getting the best, the ones worth getting or the ones everyone is using will cost you quite a bit and will easily go past 1k if you're not careful. Just ask Sentinel92, one of a number of us who end up spending more than we anticipated. Me included, but my damage was throughout a time span of about a year+ and because I went all out to getting a proper (not universal) water block for my motherboard which is pretty much impossible to find.

Also, bear in mind that AIOs can leak from manufacturing defects and around the world there have been reports of people losing their rigs from AIO leak damage, even from Corsair coolers. Even locally I've heard a few reports.

Going with a kit or a Swiftech H220-X will allow you to easily add a graphic card water block to your cooling loop. You just need to make sure your graphic card has a water block made for it.

I don't think we're so hard on people who come and ask to be spoon fed here unlike other subforums, so no worries. Just chill out with us. laugh.gif thumbup.gif
pristine
post Oct 9 2014, 10:49 PM

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The only AIO that I know off that will allow for expansion with no issue is the Swiftech H220, H220X and one Coolermaster which I forgot the model. They allow expansion coz of easily available tubing and it has a user fillable reservoir. Kits aren't too far away from custom. Kits just gives you a head start with all the right parts picked and matched for you.

I personally have a Noctua D14 in my home, running triple fans. Yes it's amazing, but the amount of weight that's put on the motherboard. sweat.gif

As for noise from radiator fans, you can always opt for quiet fans or low fin per inch radiators for more silent operation. In my system that uses alphacool rads, it's pretty much passive cooling; the fans don''t spin at all on normal tasks. There are plenty of fans in the market that will allow for quiet operation. I think the popular one now is the aerocool ds series or something like that.

You can always control fans and pumps via PWM headers or a fan controller, or buy a dedicated water cooling "computer", in mine there's an aquaero 5lt. I know qwe13 has an aquaero as well. infernoaswen runs a lamptron.

Water cooling budget is pretty much limitless. You can go nuts if you really wanted to.

You should check outWater Cooling 101 for a whole list of brands and stuff to get you back on the horse.

The H220X is an AIO, but designed to be more friendly to upgrades.

Yeah, if you go acrylic you won't have the issue. But like I said, Primochill ADV LRT has reduced the issue drastically so it's alright to start with.

You might be tempted to do some flushing and cleaning just to check the loop once in awhile to see if anything's gunked up if you're using dyed water or coolants.

For coolant top up, you'll be able to see with your reservoir.

Acrylic is flexible, you just need a hairdryer or a heat gun.

Delid is an option and not a must. Mine just runs cold coz I have a 360 and a 240 rad and well, I'm not too demanding with my temperatures. As long as they're within reasonable limits I'm good.

A true AIO- Corsair, Thermaltake does not need to be refilled by the user. It's install and run, no fuss, no mess.

Custom, well it's like building a custom rig. It's messy and you need to know to a certain degree what you're doing.

XSPC EC6 is truly non conductive, only thing is it's expensive. I'm using it in my loop and there's no issue with colour runs or degradation (so far. touch wood)

When you use coolants, it's advised not to use biocide or silver as it'll mess up the coolant. Only use biocide or silver in distilled water.

Oh I know of those neighbourhoods. laugh.gif

Also, for fittings, if you want black ones, can support chrono as from images, I believe the fittings he has are just as good as Bitspowers.

If you want a fat case that'll take nearly anything you throw at it, consider Phanteks Enthoo (primo I think), CM's new HAF Stacker series and Silverstone Temjins.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I love HWLabs. Changing to them the next time I get a chance since I don't need the 6 ports on my alphacools any more. LOL.

I'd go with swiftechs only for their pumps. Radiators can be annoying sometimes, the QC and packing isn't great.

Fittings... I guess their compressions are alright. Their rotaries I find questionable. They turn really easy.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Start with a single loop to learn. When you're familiar with it, then you can go on to a dual loop. You can cool whichever first, doesn't matter. The temperature differences either way is negligible.

Check out the watercooling 101 link I posted, it'll give you an idea of brands you should check out. I believe I covered nearly all the companies that matter in the industry, the more consumer friendly and available ones anyway.

If you want the coolant to last really long, buy distilled water and use silver kill coils. Pretty much no expiry date.

For acrylic, if you're headed that way, you'll want to dig out videos on youtube for acrylic bending.

Primochill coolants are not available locally. Not to my knowledge anyway. We have XSPC EC6, EK, Armageddon (I'd stay away from this crap), and PLENTY of Mayhems, that seems to go out of stock like ice cream in hot weather.
pristine
post Oct 9 2014, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(Zzorro @ Oct 9 2014, 11:01 PM)
alooo lengcai sifu..  notworthy.gif
I've been playing for 2 loops .. and now want play with 3 loop..  biggrin.gif
can ajar me how to do ka..  laugh.gif
*
You ni memang gile la. lol.

Three loop...

1- CPU
2- GPU
3- motherboard?

hmm.gif
pristine
post Oct 9 2014, 11:02 PM

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Talk about going overboard.

user posted image

QUOTE
MSI Computer U.S. X99S XPower AC fitted with EK Water Blocks EK-MOSFET MSI X99 XPower water block which also cools the backside of the circuit board via the adapter cooling plate.

pristine
post Oct 9 2014, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(Zzorro @ Oct 9 2014, 11:06 PM)
sikit gile la hehe.. laugh.gif
1-cpu+ram
2-mobo
3-gpu
apa mcm boleh..  hmm.gif
*
Hard drive, aquaero. Entah apa lagi.

QUOTE(chrono_kairo @ Oct 9 2014, 11:06 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


hahahha... i love this one. "and PLENTY of Mayhems, that seems to go out of stock like ice cream in hot weather.". seriously, we need to have more stocks of mayhem coolants. biggrin.gif
and also, just a reminder, fittings for acrylic tubes and flex tube are different. smile.gif
*
Except when it comes to monsoon. Just need to change the internal barb. wink.gif

This post has been edited by pristine: Oct 9 2014, 11:29 PM

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