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 Lowyat.Net Watercooling Club V8, Your WCed rigs, discussions, ideas & etc

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pristine
post Oct 9 2014, 11:51 PM

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QUOTE(Zzorro @ Oct 9 2014, 11:32 PM)
Hard drive x perlu la.. maybe psu kot.. hmm.gif
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Water cooled PSU got. Koolance I think.
pristine
post Oct 10 2014, 09:13 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 10 2014, 04:25 AM)
huge thanks for the thorough reply notworthy.gif

ah thanks for mentioning FPI's; gotten me a few hours of googling and learned a lot from it nod.gif

Do those water cooling "computer" you mentioned have pressure detection/warning? (eg: a leak is detected and pressure rapidly drop and maybe it triggers warning/alarm, and even shuts down pumps or something?)

on coolants, those silver kill coil thingies, wouldn't it (i'm thinking silver) be electrically conductive? so i guess it's more on a "give/take or pros/cons" matter here?

will definitely read/study thread (101) you linked, especially when it's linked by you. notworthy.gif
would go through/reply thoroughly however it's a bit late however rest assured i've read through everything thumbup.gif

didn't realize it's 4am after a TON of googling/reading lol sweat.gif
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You'll be able to add sensors - leak sensor, flow sensor, water level sensor and temperature sensors. I forgot if there's a pressure sensor. I know there's a pressure release valve la. Check out Aquacomputer's aquaero range for true watercooling management and control. It's not cheap, but gives you total control over everything. IINM, Koolance is the one with the leak sensor. For temperature sensors, most brands have it, they just do it differently. Flow sensors too. Best flow sensor in my books, if you don't have a watercooling managment system (WMS) is from Koolance, an inline flow sensor with a display. Not cheap, but worth the price if you don't want to invest in a WMS.

The purpose of the silver coil is just to leech silver ions into your loop for antibacterial properties. Just like how LG and Samsung uses the Ag+ coating stuff on their fridges. laugh.gif Also, even without the kill coil, Distilled Water in itself is already electrically conductive, so.... uh, you're not changing the conductive property of your fluid.

take your time to read up, there's a lot to learn if you truly want to go full on custom and not make mistakes or buy things you will regret later on (quite difficult to do unless you don't read properly).

If you have difficulty getting parts, brands or have no idea of what you need, just post here. Pretty sure one of us will reply. Most of us who went full on custom know where to get the stuff we need from. whistling.gif
pristine
post Oct 10 2014, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 10 2014, 10:11 AM)
aye will do; will read up further during free/spare time in office later hehe.
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Have fun! Feel free to ask more. Helps this thread grow too. thumbup.gif
pristine
post Oct 11 2014, 02:04 AM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Kizwan answered regarding the loop order.

Just make sure your pump doesn't run dry, and if you can, have a radiator before your reservoir to prevent thermal shock to the reservoir. Some reservoirs have been known to crack from thermal shock (varying temperature difference or prolong exposure to heat)

You can always link two reservoirs together or have one reservoir for each loop. It's up to you to design the flow. Just make sure your inlets and outlets on waterblocks and pump are the right way and you're good.

For GPU flow, there's two types, parallel and serial. The one shown in the image is a parallel set up, meant to promote less water restriction/better flow and a more stable overall temperature for multi GPU setups.

If you're keen on CM cases, the HAF Stacker is a good choice. NZXT and Corsair cases are expensive, especially with other choices in the market.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

What do you meant by very tight?

Yes, avoid a dry pump unless you want to kill it. It's like suffocating a person.

Drain then disassemble. Use a ball valve at the lowest point of your loop to release most of the coolant. You don't have to get everything out, you just need to get most of it out.

Once you're happy with the amount of coolant removed, just start unplugging the tubes or blocks, whichever way you think works best for you.

I usually drain everything then remove tubes slowly. If you're worried about water damage on components, head to a hardware store and buy a thick chamois for washing/wiping your car. I bought one that came in a roll of a few pieces. Absorbs water like magic.
pristine
post Oct 12 2014, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(gxthelord @ Oct 11 2014, 10:18 PM)
Pristine need ur advice on something. Previous user using the H220 with EC6 but did not drain or rinse the loop. So when I received item(a day after) first thing I did was rinse run warm distilled water with vinegar thru it. And there was a lot of left over. So after the water was clean(used about 1.5liter) I started assembling the loop and fill it with distilled water. Now I'm running a bleed and leak test the pump is making some really scary sound. I'll upload a vid to utube and link here in a while. It sound like waterfall.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX0T5xpAnv4
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bubble free? Air bubbles cause noise in the pumps. also, DDCs are noisier than D5s. I haven't used a DDC myself so I can't judge.
pristine
post Oct 12 2014, 02:38 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:53 AM)
awesome tips bro!

wow learning more on those parallel/serial setups... seemed really confusing though.
well i probably shouldn't need to worry about them for the time being, only planning single GPU (planning to just get a top of the time 980 or something) and be done with it.
not planning anything crazy like 4k gaming as my monitor is fine (1920x1080) and not planning to replace it anytime soon lol

i noticed, despite the US $ RSP, CM cosmos 2 are still cheaper than the nzxt locally.
perhaps i'll just run smaller/thinner radiators, and just have a second one at the bottom within a single loop.
tentatively thinking:
rad1 > CPU > GPU > rad2 > reservoir(or integrate together with the pump) > pump > rad1
the second radiator should pick up whatever (if any, although from the feedback here, just a cpu/gpu shouldn't need second radiators) slack that may occur depending on how i OC.

Tight as in from the pictures/sample setups, it doesn't look like the gpu tubing/fittings/blocks can be removed easily without having water/mess getting on to the cards themselves.
but as some youtube/other forumers pointed out, just get more toilet paper roll or something tongue.gif
and yeah, basically what you pointed out especially the bolded thumbup.gif

no worries on cloths, detailing happens to be one of my (many) hobbies too wink.gif
if you're keen, can check out my signature link or google plus profile or even youtube channel tongue.gif (yes shameless advertising LOL!)
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You'll only see benefits if you're running more than two cards. Otherwise I doubt there'll be any improvement. If you're going for a 980, make sure it's a reference pcb card or at least a card with a compatible waterblock. EK has a waterblock compatibility checker for their blocks.

You seem pretty set with a Cosmos 2 bro. Should just settle on that already. haha!

Thinnest radiators come from alphacool at 30mm thick. Only pro/con (depends how you look at it) is that it's a low FPI radiator.

Maximise all the fan space you got for radiators. More rad space = more surface area = better cooling potential.

I run a 3770K and a GTX680 on a 240mm and a 360mm. No one will stop you bro. If you have the budget for it, and if you really want to, by all means, do it. thumbup.gif

It's coz tighter bends (without kinking) look really sharp compared to tubelines with slack. Removing the tubing won't be easy with Primochill, but I find pliers to be an excellent friend when removing from the barb.

If detailing is a hobby of yours, you'll know which cloth to look out for. laugh.gif
pristine
post Oct 12 2014, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 03:34 AM)
aye EK blocks looks really nice thumbup.gif

well the main reason for the cosmos2 is due to the handle bars, which for my room, looks like something i'll be needing especially since water cooling does involve maintenance.
and looks like i'll be going for alphacools! since 30mm is just about the maximum you can go for those cosmos2
Low FPI is also a plus as i want the quietest possible setup. biggrin.gif
cosmos 2 are good for 360mm (3x 120mm) rads, just 1 fan will be sorta partially blocked but i dont think it'll be an issue.
but yea 30mm thickness is pretty much the max those guys can fit (at least according to cm website that the nepton 280L anyways http://www.coolermaster.com/case/ultra-tower/cosmos-2/ and that's a 30mm.)

but eh, looks like they aren't widely available locally? looks like it's international shipping time sweat.gif
what's a good website you usually shop from for overseas stuff? If i'm already ordering parts from overseas, i'm thinking to 1 shot whack everything lol

it certainly looks damn good though (without tube slacks)
while it looks like a tougher path/choice, i'm leaning towards acrylic tubings though i'm not too sure how i'll fare with heat bending them.
easy way out is definitely those primo chill advanced lrt thumbup.gif
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For Alphacool radiators, hit unequalteck up with a PM or something. Last I checked he was taking orders for alphacool radiators. Not sure if he's still doing it.

Best places to shop from would be FrozenCPU, PerformancePCs and aquatuning.de, if you're going EKWB then you can order direct from EKWB's store.
pristine
post Oct 16 2014, 02:10 AM

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EKWB is having a sale on their online store.

Anyone looking for blocks should have a look!

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/special-prices/
pristine
post Oct 16 2014, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(Moogle Stiltzkin @ Oct 16 2014, 04:36 AM)
where to get distilled water :/ i check at tesco, 7/11 all don't have.
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that's weird. should be easily available. tried petrol stations?
pristine
post Oct 16 2014, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 16 2014, 02:05 PM)
you poisonous snake sad.gif
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lol. its only bad if they have blocks you want. brows.gif

QUOTE(llk @ Oct 16 2014, 04:30 PM)
Can get it from AEON, this brand, www.topvalu.com.my/products/distilled-drinking-water/
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Same one I bought to do rinsing and flushing of my loop. heh.

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 16 2014, 04:40 PM)
spritzer also got biggrin.gif
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This is premium distilled water right here. laugh.gif

pristine
post Oct 16 2014, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 16 2014, 06:18 PM)
thinking to get EKWB blocks lo...
or maybe pumps/fittings?

=edit=
woot! no cpu/gpu water blocks i want  sweat.gif

they got laing D5? (i assume quietest pumps?)

eh spritzer premium ke? didn't know lol...
i bought it for my CAR radiators/cooling system and detailing chemical dilutions (buy in gallon, cheaper LOL)
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Yeah, EK has D5 too. But if you're buying alphacool stuff from teck, can get the 655 pump through him. Same thing. Saves your postage/shipping too.

Premium in the sense of brand only. tongue.gif
pristine
post Oct 17 2014, 12:01 AM

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QUOTE(Zzorro @ Oct 16 2014, 11:56 PM)
Very strange why to use distilled water? I did just use ordinary drinking water purchased in the grocery store of RM1.50 for a 1.5L (not mineral la ..) and I've been playing this toy for more than 3 years and no problems on the water block or fittings.. so do not be too dizzy with all this .. just my two cents..
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Haha. They having difficulty finding bro. Nothing fancy. Just people having difficulty finding.
pristine
post Oct 17 2014, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 17 2014, 12:01 AM)
wah awesome if that's the case, can save shipping on my end thumbup.gif

oh when i was googling for D5 pumps i happen to come across this:
http://codesociety.com/2014/01/30/building...-choosing-case/

http://codesociety.com/2014/06/11/building...ing-components/

thought it could be of help to other new comers like me laugh.gif

oh and i didn't know spritzer is premium...it's mineral water pricing isn't that far off other brands at convenience stores laugh.gif
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no la, in terms of buying water not for drinking, there are cheaper ones out there ma. no harm using. still distilled water. don't read too much into it bro. laugh.gif
pristine
post Oct 17 2014, 03:57 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

We actually have a water cooing 101 thread already. lol. But anyway, if you want sharper bends, you'll need to get thinner walled tubing. but those kink easier. Also, Primo ADV LRT is very rigid, that's why you have issues. But if you're persistent enough and if you know how, you can get really tight bends. I'm using 3/8 5/8 Primo ADV LRT in my loop as well and I got some nice bends.

Newer pumps are going G1/4" threads so you don't have to buy tops unless you really want to. Last time yes, pumps came with barbs so you needed to change top.

Next time you do maintenance on your loop, you might want to do a thorough check on everything in your loop. Some components aren't very ethanol or any -ols friendly, especially o-rings. Simple Distilled water is enough. If you want to keep gunk away, biocide/silver coils.


QUOTE(chaics85 @ Oct 17 2014, 12:28 PM)
not sure if its appropriate to ask here. what are the best 120mm size AIO water cooler below rm300? currently using nh-d14.. would like something around the same or better in performance aio.
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You're better off with the D14. If you want a performance increase, hunt down your receipt and hit Noctua an email and request for a third fan clip! thumbup.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 17 2014, 02:21 PM)
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthr...842#post7084842
looks like i have to go with 2x 240mm slim radiators instead of 1 360 and 1 240 if i want to stick with the cosmos ii sad.gif

planning to have a pump/5.25 drive bay reservoir integration as it looks like the 360 will hinder it ...
or since it has 3x 5.25" drive bays, i could perhaps put the res on the lower 2 slots, and still fit the 360mm on top hmm.gif
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Check out Koolance's 2x 5.25" bay drive pump res combo. Best one in my books, although freaking expensive. Just bought one for myself recently. Haven't got the chance to install it yet. Been too busy with multiple jobs. sweat.gif
pristine
post Oct 17 2014, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 17 2014, 04:01 PM)
omg more poison  icon_question.gif

you got yours shipped also? locally got koolance distro/seller?
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It's worth it, if you're the type that appreciates how well things are made. I got mine through niclasteoh. Have to wait a few weeks, but I wasn't in a rush so icon_rolleyes.gif

If you're wondering, niclasteoh is the go to person if you want koolance or HWLabs locally.
pristine
post Oct 17 2014, 11:28 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 17 2014, 11:17 PM)
yea i'm that type....
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


i'll definitely give it a look; Atm looking at the EK version since it's released not too long ago; and they have the D5 PWM pump included, and have a lot of features that emphasis on noise reduction (rubber mounts/system/finish etc)
the pricing is on the higher side though, at ~150euros D:

and i think i've bought items from niclasteoh before... iinm
but it was like 6-7 years ago? so lol...
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GG wallet indeed. I spent a mini fortune on my stuff. laugh.gif

At 150 euros, the price is actually more expensive than the Koolance res I bought at about 5xx.

In terms of vibration and noise reduction, don't stress too much. You can throttle down the speed of the D5 pump and run it at about 40% or so and it'll be pretty much silent. You won't even hear the pump whirr. Heck, mine is running at 65% and I can't hear a thing. D5s quieter than DDCs and have less vibration due to the design.
pristine
post Oct 18 2014, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 17 2014, 11:30 PM)
well, i'm not 100% sure on VAT yet, but if it's evaded like my brake pads from UK, then it won't be too much of a difference.
but yea, 5xx is a damn good price no doubt ><

i buy into marketing/hype too easily cry.gif
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You're not supposed to be charged VAT. That's only for those living in that part of the world.

Compare, check out images and read reviews if you can find any. I like the koolance for the look and materials used - acetal, stainless and thick acrylic. Also, the Koolance has two chambers, letting you expand to dual pumps for a single loop or dual loop. brows.gif

Filling up the Koolance is easier too. Fill ports on the front! Just need to use fitting or funnel to aid with filling.

If you want something unique though, check out alphacool's bay res pump combo. They have one that can take 4, yes FOUR DDCs. Takes coolant from a single chamber, for either single or dual loop. Fill port on the front as well which pulls out so you don't have to use a funnel or fitting to aid with filling. Set back is it's made of acrylic.
pristine
post Oct 18 2014, 09:44 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 18 2014, 02:16 AM)
aye hence i should be having additional 22% "discount" which should easily cover any shipping charges laugh.gif

this is the res/pump combo i am aiming at:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-ac...-incl-pump.html

can't seem to find reviews yet besides this which isn't helping much lol:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22888/ex...615&id=LDiG7ZqJ

the koolance (this right? http://koolance.com/rp-452x2-dual-5-25in-r...pmp-450-s-pumps ) is definitely very attractive, especially with the front fitted fill ports which the EK lacked.
however with most, if not all modern 5.25 drive mounting mechanism goes, i'm quite sure i can easily pull it out a little just to use the top fill port so it shouldn't be too much of a trouble.

The EK seemed to fully use 2 bays (the shape is generally square) while the koolance looks like a single bay size with just the front panel being 2 bays, kinda like my inspira stock head unit - single din functionality/size however with a 2 din face plate to accommodate for all the buttons lol

btw list i've compiled:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Vjm...dit?usp=sharing
so much for 1k budget, eh?
wtf 2k+  shocking.gif  gg.com.my lol
(pricing are including 22% VAT from EKWB, without shipping applied yet)

so how many fittings/angles i'll be needing?
quick draft:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Yeah, that's the Koolance model.

Pulling out is possible, but remember to give your tubing slack otherwise it won't be going anywhere. If you're going acrylic, then well... You'll need to make a fill port somewhere. haha.

As for how many angle adapters you'll be needing, plan out your loop and try to visualise the tubing routes. It'll give you an idea how many you'll need.
pristine
post Oct 18 2014, 10:06 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 18 2014, 03:38 PM)
i'll probably just get normal tubing just for the flexibility. like you said, with acrylics, i can't be pulling out the drive and have to think about something for the fill port, or just get a different reservoir altogether.

the tubing visualization can be a bit hard since i've never done it, not to mention i wouldn't know how to specifically route the tubes through the grommets/"cable manage" them.

i suppose the best way is to buy extra so i wouldn't be lacking any ya?
so the compression fittings sound a bout right? each tube 2, so it sums up to 10? need to get extras just in case?
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Look at water cooled rigs and study the loops. It'll give you an idea.

Yeah, extras if you can afford it will be good unless you're 100% sure you won't change plans during the install.

You'll need a pair of compressions for each component (water block/radiator/pump/etc) in your loop. From there work your way to how you want your water to flow, from which block to which block to radiator or pump, etc. and figure out how many angle adapters you might need.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Good to know you got the issue resolved. The fastest way to solve your cable issue is if you make your own. If you've got soldering and electrical knowledge then you'll be fine. Best luck looking for the cable would be in pasar road I would imagine.
pristine
post Oct 19 2014, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 18 2014, 11:42 PM)
instead of per component, would it be better to say that per tube = 2 compression?

in some situations, i'd reckon you'd probably need something like:
rad > 90deg > tube > 45deg > tube > block
that's 4 compression required, right?

when normally it'd be:
rad > tube > block
2 compression

am i correct in this understanding?

so in a way, a goal is to also minimize the usage of tubes by means of just "chaining" rotary fittings until the tube can be properly connected without kinks?
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Per tube works too, unless you have a junction for some reason. laugh.gif

Your order should be like this:

comp > rad > 90 degree > comp > tube > comp > 45 degree > block > comp

or:

comp > rad > comp > tube > comp > block > comp

I made corrections based on each component in the loop needing two compressions each, inlet and outlet.

Use all the tube you want, it's cheaper than using rotary angle adapters. And if you're using 3/8 5/8, kinking is not an easy thing to do.

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