potong holder itu   

tak ada..i bukan supplier ler..

ya meh? mana like?

u mmg stalk ppl kao kao har.... 

u punya hal bkn FB punya hal...

Pin Pin...

Just came back from my first 1000km service.

Am thinking to install sport rims, any tips? Prefer light weight to save FC.

Sport rims + tyre, budget rm1500 ok? 

Suggested/recommended tyre type? And the gooding service shop. 
please consult either kenjilew nestum
kenjilew shop at puchong, nestum in kl.
Probably going to shoot to KL tomolo or the day after. From Kedah.

Thanks in advance. 

susah la, kena pakai spannar

wa pun tak tau mcm mana bukak oh?

my ramcar is already 26 months. I don't know how long the battery was in the car before I collected it.
After overnight, I measure the voltage of the battery, still showing 12.4 V.

is it still ok?

btw, is it not advisable to top up your battery water while the engine bay still hot?

u changed in proton service center?
how much?
kepong branch proton service center qoute me rm72 x 4 = rm 288 for gear box oil 

hi guys,
1 question here; my flx dashboard are making squeaking sound when driving through speed bump or potholes..how to fix this? i try to knock2 the dash but the sound still wont disappear...thx.
iinm can try open dashboard and sumbat insulflex if u can.
2 question; is it normal for rear drum brake to making sound like stuck with dust? i already went to SC for service but the problem still there..thx again
if got dust, normal. did you do brake service. stock saga brake pad produce lots of brake dust.

anybody know price for saga sv headlamp?

guys, wanna ask something. my car radiator fan won't stop spinning even though i turn off the engine. any solution to this? never happened before. i take off the fuse from the electronic box thingy to make it stop.

Finally my NONE-stop spinning radiator fan problem solved. i m here to contribute by sharing my bad experience =p and hopefully if one fine day, any1 of u guys face the same issue, then u can settled with ease.

Btw, its lucky for me to try my luck with the proton dealer sc near taman mayang pj 2day. They only spent 5 mins for the whole process to settle my problem. The culprit of the problem is actually the "relay" as what abang YAB and Dares mention earlier. Thanks god that i dint wait and send my car for 2 days as mention by the SC in Section 13 and Glenmarie.

Although my car is under warranty,  the relay, fuse and bulbs are not covered. So i need to pay rm11.70 for the relay and YES!!!! its dxmn cheap!!!! RM11.70 and solved the irritating problem!! i paid happily and leave.

my car is going to service soon, i think i will stick to the taman mayang sc as they never disappoint me =) After renew road tax and insurance, gonna prepare to change new shoes for my ride^^ maybe 195 50 15?

guys, saga sv mt vs cvt, which one is a better choice? fc?

Because most owners whack their CVT like driving a 4AT. Due to the nature of CVT, power is not delivered as punchy as a 4AT, so many tend to press the throttle deeper, then complain no power high FC. I get 11-12 km/l under normal driving (with occasional sprints), best I got was 15.x km/l. Mine was the 1.6l FLX SE.

If 1.3 can be even better, as demonstrated by gogoman86

CVT can be more efficient than manual because:

1. The engine can always be revving at the most efficient speed, while for fixed ratio gearboxes the engine typically doesn't stay in the efficient powerband a lot of the time.

2. There is no interruption while accelerating. Even the fastest manual shifters will still have a spilt second when the engine is not driving the wheels between shifts.

3. If you drive a manual properly, you would rev match a lot. Pressing the throttle in neutral or with the clutch disengaged is just wasting fuel.

There are some points for manual driving:

- When accelerating, if you are too slow you waste fuel by not covering ground fast enough, too fast and you also waste fuel by spraying an unnecessarily rich mixture which does not translate into acceleration. I believe there are two different ways which people feel the throttle, first is press to a fixed point immediately and wait for the revs to catch up, the second is to gently ease up the revs while pressing the pedal. The latter is definitely more efficient. Change up when you feel the engine has reached its sweet spot.

- When to shift up? I personally don't think there's a fixed point such as 2,000 RPM. It depends on the traffic situation and road condition. For example if traffic is moving slowly then I shift up really early, by 40 km/h I'm already in 4th gear (gentle acceleration) (bear in mind your Getrag has taller ratios than my Aichi Pockai). If it's an open road ahead then I tend to drag gears a little longer, because if I shift too early, the engine will be well below the efficient torque band, which brings us to the next point...

- Use the correct gear for the correct condition. Ever ridden a multi-speed bicycle? Your car engine feels exactly the same as when you're pedaling a bike. I think people who have spent a lot of time cycling are more efficient manual drivers as they understand the principles of gearing. The first thing to know is that lower RPM does not necessarily mean better efficiency. The low RPM = efficient rule only applies if you're cruising at a constant speed or accelerating *very* gently on flat ground or going downhill. For going uphill, you probably already know that you need to rev higher by using a lower ratio. For example, climbing up a moderate slope at 40 km/h in 4th gear which on my gearbox will give me about 2,000 RPM. With that ratio, you probably have to open the throttle quite a bit to maintain that speed, so a lot of fuel is pumped into the engine but the ratio is too high and you may feel the engine struggle to maintain that speed. However if you climb the same slope at 40 km/h but in 3rd gear, your revs will be closer to 3,000 RPM and you don't have to open the throttle as much as you did in 4th gear, so it's actually more efficient even though your engine revs are higher.

Also other points regardless of gearbox:

- Anticipate the traffic in front of you. Look beyond the car directly in front and observe the traffic flow. My favourite way to measure how well you do this is to watch the brake lights of the car in front and count how many times they brake compared to how many times you brake. I find that generally, for every 5 or 6 times the car in front brakes, I only brake once. Remember that braking converts your car kinetic energy into heat and every time you brake, you have to accelerate and burn fuel to regain your speed. Therefore a driver who brakes minimally is an efficient driver. You must use your brakes when necessary, such as coming to a stop but generally, drive in a manner which minimises braking. In heavy traffic, accelerate gently. Don't attempt to block vehicles cutting in front of you. If you see a red light in front, lift off the throttle and coast.

- The most efficient cruising speed is around 80-90 km/h. Any faster and your engine will be wasting power unnecessarily on overcoming drag from air resistance. Following this rule I managed to hit 546 km on about 34L, gogoman86 who has done 600+ km on a tank will probably tell you the same too.

- If your time is flexible, avoid traffic jams. It's a 20 km drive to office for me every day. In the mornings if I leave at 7 or 8 am, it takes an hour to get to office. However after 9 am the time is reduced to less than half an hour. As for coming home, the earliest time I leave office is 7 pm, because before that various places will be congested. I can leave at about 6+, but I choose to stay to 7+ just to beat the jam.

- Watch the air cond thermostat. The colder your setting, the more often the compressor has to run and more fuel will be burnt. For me, the warmest temperature and blower speed 1 will suffice at night and early morning, during mid-day blower speed 2 and thermostat somewhere in the middle. Also I wait for the engine to warm up first by driving a few kilometres before turning the air-cond. The engine is thirsty when cold and there's no need to add additional load then.

- Generally engine oil has negligible difference on consumption. Been on 15w50 from new until 50,000 km, then switched to 10w30 but I don't think that has improved my consumption. My previous 546 km on a tank and also 20 km/L achieved on a midnight run with davidke20 were on 15w50.  

- There's only a certain amount you can do to improve your consumption. When I lived in PJ I could consistently hit below 8L/100 km and get 400-450 km a tank (sometimes more, especially with trips to KLIA), however here in Penang I normally get about 8-8.5L/100km due traffic lights every few hundred metres. I've tried really hard, following all the points mentioned above and going as far as switching off the engine at traffic lights (manual stop-start) but it's still very hard to get below 8L/100 km on this Island. The Campro engine is thirsty by nature and initially available only with poor gearbox choices, but now with the CVT and Getrag manual you guys are better off than us stuck with the older gearbox. So don't feel overly frustrated if your figures are not looking good, apply all the points above and if you're really fed up, sell the Gaga and buy a BiBa / Mirage / secondhand Sawi.

- If you haven't already done so, go sign up for an account at www.fuelly.com so that you can log and analyse your consumption over time.

Basically Luke ady replied everything for you. I just wish add on, CVT fuel save than manual is a theory. By right without idling engine time between shifting, can help save fuel. Basically when engine can have a constant revving speed whilst velocity increase(travelling speed) can help save fuel. But there are factors that other sohigh might just cancel off all the advantage of a CVT like Dares mentioned

bumper no crack le. .  head crack abit got le. .

ah.. so, i need to open the bolt in order to take out the back rest? is it operatable by hand or need tools? thanks..

Lel....terpost.
Buy at sprpart RM24*4 botol
Under pokokceri sc RM15
RM111 for total

ah.. so, i need to open the bolt in order to take out the back rest? is it operatable by hand or need tools? thanks..

U should get this one...