grats on new tered..

Today tried to hunt for ultramax battery around melaka for my gaga, tapi all dealers listed on the century websites claimed that they have no stock, and said that century actually stopped producing ultramax due to the too freakin hai claims of warranty..
no choice but ended up with the marathoner..

any bad review ?

I think it's a matter of selling philosophy.
Just like me, when I change my batt, my mom and sis ask me how much.
I said 250 then they said I siao, change so expensive.
In their mind, edi fixed, for our saga battery is <RM200 and 1 yr warranty.
Then when I ask them work out the cost per month btw the 2, they diam d.
If you get what I mean, it's easier to sell marathoner than ultramax.
Easier to sell something ppl already know in general than convincing them buying something new/better technology.
If you go those ah beng bawah pokok workshop, if they sell Century battery, you will only see marathoner.
If got Ultramax also 1/2 biji nia.
normal ma, who wants to sell battery that seldom pepel want to buy. pepel opt for the cheapest. david's famous quote, cheap and cheerful.
U should go get the list of dealers from century web/app and call each of them.
I baru aje changed mine in KL.
RM 250 for Ultramax.
INB4, RM 150 for Marathoner.

Marathoner = RM 150 = 12 months warranty = RM 12.50 / month
Ultramax = RM 250 = 21 months warranty = RM 11.90 / month 
Not to mention, in the long run, you have longer period of peace of mind and pay lesser visits to dealers to change batt

Otherwise, I can borrow brother zeone quote.
We KL-ians are living in land of paradise. Can get things easily.
So want get Ultramax also much easier than other in states.

Please recommend a good semi synthetic oil for my saga blm~ Before this using BHP Eco Oil

poorfag tapi u use 12.50/month instead of 11.90/month 
don;t really care about that one.
battery lifetime cannot use to compare la. .
even marathoner vs marathoner, some ppl used ngam ngam 13th month then kong liao, some used >1.5 yrs oso not yet kong.
can analyze lor. what's what we do. pepel asking, so we analyze lor. same think with EO. previously i use shell, now i use rockoil. so i analyze lor. i also don't care what EO. but doing analyze so that later i know whether it's really good or not. same like u use ultramax lor. whether it really can last tlonger than marathoner or not. btw, if u can get rm250, it doesn't mean i also can get for the price rm250 for ultramax also.
who knows,
1) marathoner kong 13th month, ultramax kong 30th month
2) marathoner kong 18th month, ultramax kong 22nd month
3) marathoner kong 18th month, ultramax kong 30th month
that's why this is the correct time to analyze. u use ultramax, we else use marathoner. so compare la.

how wan to compare ?
so the only thing can compare is warranty period lor. .
the only thing I rike about Ultramax is, under expected working condition, I have at least 21 month of peace of mind instead of 12 month. Thats it.
no problem for me. ady well prepared. ady got experience buy change battery ownself. got knowledge on batteries, thanks to davidke20 

I see. Mine just reached 41000km. So fully synthetic is a waste since I'm not a travel kind of guy.

Does different brand and different model make any differences?

  Try between Fully Syn and semi syn sure can feel difference. Different Viscosity too

i poor fag never use fully syn b4....  

I personally believe engine oil did very little effect to FC, partly because the engine compartment friction is so great that minor viscosity different is negligible after all. Unless your engine already posses these problems:

1) Loosen valve seat - engine oil leak into combustion chamber from engine head, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning
2) Loosen pistong ring - engine oil being channeled into combustion chamber from crankshaft, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning
3) PCV breather blocked - excess engine oil being stored on rocker head will leak into intake vale, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning
4) PCV breather valve loosen - unable to block engine oil from staying on rocker head, excess engine oil being suck by intake manifold, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning.

If your car's performance affected by engine oil, you need to get your car fixed because your car may be suffering from 1 of the above. I've been driving for many years, many kinds of cheap/expansive/racing grade/taxi grade engine oil I've used. The significant of an engine oil existed when you're in these conditions:
a) During engine cold, whether the oil has been freezed. Whether its sticky enough to stick on the metal surface to prevent your engine part from hard friction.
b) When you're driving in the afternoon + high heat. If you go 9000rpm, is your engine oil capable to sustain such heat without boiling. The hotter it gets, the watery it goes.
So, what kind of temperature you're driving on? Too cold? Or too hot?

There's also myth in the market saying some highly precised molecule engine oil can provide extreme lubrication that smoothen engine movement, the reduced friction will result in restore power output and increase fuel efficiency. I have absolutely no proof to say that's wrong. But then, what was the working temperature again? -20w50? You want high heat resistance, its going to freeze earlier. You want low freeze molecule, it wouldn't stand high heat. Simple as that.

Here's a video regarding independent engine oil test:


Basically, if my opinion was the difference of engine output is totally negligible. If you read it correctly, the 1st test of Mobil 1 was the most weak engine oil, but I guess many of us also realize as the engine run hotter the performance started to increase. If the shop owner willing to do the whole test again with the reverse sequence of the engine oil, started with Nulon, then Purple follow by Motul, Castrol and finally end it with Mobil, I would take a safe bet the Mobil is going to generate 180kw instead of the Nulon.

I personal preference was this:

Too bad, I couldn't find this type of oil in Malaysia anymore. Reason for selecting this is because it's very affordable, and placebo effect pretty good. It used to be NASCAR official engine oil, so I felt the car more powerful after knowing that I'm sure it has nothing to do with the actual performance, it just I felt better You may still find some detail here

If the car already have problem, such as loosen piston ring, this is my preference:

Affordable price, very hard to burn. If your car is a white smoker, this is just the thing you looking for before you get to repair your engine.

Engine oil talk

Fubar20 TitanRev

I know you guys have your idea on how motor oil benefit the car. Here's my piece to chip in despite I'm not particular and have very little knowledge on engine oil. I've been driving several years, changing engine oil almost every 3 month, sometimes twice when I hit 3000 miles too soon. Due to cost of motor oil start increasing, I found I'm paying more and more on the vehicle maintenance, so I start to dig more info from magician. Helping to overhaul engine benefit the most in terms of technical knowledge and understand how motor oil affect engine performance.

Rule of thumb, buy engine oil with API stamp. Here's a link, please download and print a copy put inside your car. The next time when you wanna purchase motor oil, make sure you read the ratings whether its SN/SJ/SM/SL.

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoi...2010_120210.pdf

With API ratings, you'll get an idea how these engine oil comply to your power unit. Your motor vehicle rely on the chemical inside the motor oil to survive friction. The viscosity only meant very little, but the API rating worth the most. Hence, when you use cap ayam motor oil, despite they put down 10w60, that does not mean the molecule can stand your car's 10.1:1 compressrion ratio with 400'c extreme heat during the ignition. Be it 10w100, it doesn't make any difference when the oil being channeled into the combustion chamber.

However, don't take my word as a whole. The viscosity does yield it's importance. For instance 10w40 multi-visco simply means 10 comes suffixed with W, meaning WINTER(not weight/watt as claim by others) for cold start viscosity. The 40 after W is hot viscosity. The front winter denote has lower figure, meaning the liquid has lower "beku" point. Sorry ran out of vocabulary. The hot visco higher denote a higher boiling point. You don't want oil to boil, just like your mommy cooking in the kitchen.

I've seen many horrible incident's while helping customer to do engine overhauling. Unsurprisingly, most of them having problem with their motor, they tend to miss their oil change quite often, sometimes up to few years did not change oil at all. Before dismantle an engine for overhaul, as I loosen the oil sum nut, I'll be extremely careful to not let oil spill on my hand. These burnt oil can irritate my skin and cause allergy. However, most of the time after the sum nut being pull off, there aren't any oil drip out. Even if there is, very little and very thick. Got once we unable to drain anything out from the sum, because those oil already turned grease. Can imagine how not to jammed the pistons?





Thinner hot viscosity oil does not mean you have less chance building up sludge, infact it's the opposite. Otften I ask magician why not fully synthetic as those expansive oil usually added cleaning agent, can last up to 6000 miles. The answer is simple, recycle the same oil in the engine can only make those oil turn into sludge. Debris and dirt to have more opportunity to form a bigger object between molecule, hence sludge start to build.



I used to worship 76 racing motor oil 10w40 for NASCAR, until my car start to emit white smoke and finally ended up with a full overhaul. Again, I did the overhaul by myself with assistance of magician to find that not much sludge built up, but the piston ring has been fully grounded off. Lesson learned as magician explain, usually racing motor oil does meant for racing. Those oil wouldn't last more than few thousand miles as it degrade faster than normal oil from the market. The dangerous part is, motor oil should form a film of coating on engine parts, but the degraded oil does not. It will be fully drained to the sump. Believe it or not, your engine life were shorten each time you crank start it, not when you taking it to the redline(provided the redline figure is properly balanced on your crankcase).

From the above little knowledge I gained from magician, I've been practicing frequent oil change. For your information, VTEC oil is rated SAE10w30 have no problem running at 8krpm.

Ignore funker. He is just being anal.
Tesco mia kan ada.

thanks iskazulka

Any brand cheap fully syn 

Am I supposed to be more scared due to u using more emojis?

Not all, recycle oil can be filtered until very clean and looks good. But it's very dangerous for machines because those recycled oil degrade extremely fast. I go for cheap but reputable mineral oil because cheap oil nobody wanna brand them with recycle oil due to profit margin. Otherwise when I'm on for semi or full synthetics, I'll go for Tesco. In anycase if Tesco dare to recycle their engine oil, I know who to sue and rest assured I'm going to be damn rich

i got mine for 180.. kena tetak leher d.. but no choice coz i called the list of melaka dealers all selling 180-200 for marathoner 
and out of 10 dealers 8 of them don't have ultramax. The others i didn't call coz too far from my place.

150 = 12 months = RM12.50
250 = 21 months = RM11.90
So, IMHO, I think it's better for me take ultramax for a lower cost & longer period of peace of mind.

Today I just realized Nankang tires is named after a place in Taiwan

why still got people use bluray?

netflix ftw 

who cares bout JAV  when u can make your own 

now 9,000 km on semi synthetic. enjin rasa berat wooo. vroom2 tarak syok,