but i heard some1 here said that the 5.1 is very "corosive" (dono how 2 spell ) unless frequent changes it..

so bro pacer.. u dono about the charges huh?

hey!! it's 50 pages anniversary for our very own LYN gen2owner thread..

This post has been edited by mattchin: Oct 11 2006, 12:50 AM

hurray 50 pages...
next target 100 pages

yes they are corrosive ( i think its spelled like that, haha), but if u change it every 6 mths i think its ok. its corrosive becoz they trap air and moisture in the lines which will make then rust. dot 4 will not do that becoz they have oil like composition which coats the lines preventing rust. but basically dot4 is good enuf for daily town driving. the only advantage of dot 5.1 is the higher operating teperature, but this temperature is barely reached in daily town driving. on highways doing 160 and above then pls change it:P

charges, so far i only asked ros*d* in sunway, pro RS is 240 plus installation is 340. i think they include bleeding too with dot4

for changing brake fluid it, labour depends la on workshop, but should not be more than 30-40, dot5.1 fluid range from approx 25(bendix) to 45 (motul) a bottle. needs 2 bottles (1Liter) to change for the first time

if normal service (those normal regular service performed by SC) what mileage onli will it need 2 b service the brakes (brake bleeding, brake pad,.. etc..)?

matt,
not much mod been done on my car coz no $$ lar... asking lots of Q and A is for research so that I know wat to get for the car to achieve wat I wan. I dun wan spend money then in the end of the day, become white elephant. .

Finally 50 pages of informations, and watz not in this thread... hahaha bonding better relationship among ourself... Letz set on more info and watz not to 100 pages!!!

Guys, do u think we shall do a headcount of who's who in our lil' LYN Gen2 Club?? just to keep track how many of us here...

if ok, then just continue on the list, or else, just forget that i ever mentioned. 8)

clienut, maybe u can update the list in the first post of this thread so that we have a place to refer or update in this thread...

cheers.

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3. mattchin/KL/Metropolitan Gray/ 1.3(A)
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3. mattchin/KL/Metropolitan Gray/ 1.3(A)
4. CFS/KL/Lennox Black/MT
5.
6.
7.
8.

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3. mattchin/KL/Metropolitan Gray/ 1.3(A)
4. NeonX/TPG/WHITE/1.3AT
5.
6.
7.
8.

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3. mattchin/KL/Metropolitan Gray/ 1.3(A)
4. CFS/KL/Lennox Black/MT
5. NeonX/TPG/WHITE/1.3AT
6. eng98/PJ/E.Orange//1.6/MT
7.
8.

This post has been edited by eng98: Oct 11 2006, 11:27 AM

Number/Nick/Location/Gen2colour/transmission
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3. mattchin/KL/Metropolitan Gray/ 1.3(A)
4. CFS/KL/Lennox Black/MT
5. NeonX/TPG/WHITE/1.3AT
6. eng98/PJ/E.Orange//1.6/MT
7.JasonKing/Ipoh/Angel Blue/1.6(A)
8.

Well, its thanks to all your support that we managed to have our mock Gen2Club (LYN style!) to hit this milestone... Never knew that my first posting so many moons ago can result in the 1/2-century page... Keep up the good work guys!

Anyway, here are my details:
1. Shackks/JB/Lennox Black/AT
2. Pacer/JB/Lennox Black/MT
3. mattchin/KL/Metropolitan Gray/ 1.3(A)
4. CFS/KL/Lennox Black/MT
5. NeonX/TPG/WHITE/1.3AT
6. eng98/PJ/E.Orange//1.6/MT
7.JasonKing/Ipoh/Angel Blue/1.6(A)
8. ClieGen2 / PJ / Black (resprayed from Metro Gray) / 1.6(A)
9.

wow... i see some new nicks who weren't in this thread b4... kewl.

guys, read from AW thatz there's a lightened crank pulley developed for Gen2 and said to have increase 3hp to our car...

anyone read abt it??

i think ZTH and neo's forum oso got.

cheers



This post has been edited by shackks: Oct 11 2006, 02:12 PM

yeah read about it...rm500 if im not mistaken... if had money will do it... but now im saving money to get a gearbox cooler and clean my manifold and install OCT

yes yes...a gearbox cooler will definitely be a better option...

U getting the Hayden or something one ahz??

Change to braided hose, with a good brake pad is enough.

Additional one is use DOT5.1, change to ATX cross-drilled slotted rotors will be better.

about the crank pully... check it out if there is a dampener on it. if there is no damperner then forget it. the engine will be due for a change in 100-150K kms

on top of that, when u lighthen the crank pulley, ur torque figure will suffer although ur HP will increase.

if u see the dyno graph properly (from what i see on many cars), 3HP is in the high end not in the entire rev range. while torque figure (if increase) will also be in the higher rev range not in the useable lower revs.

engines like the campro needs high amount of lower troque thats why it is very heavy, if u have lifted one b4, compared to the waja (4G18) or wira (4g15), the campro's is much much more heavy (didnt weight it though)

so beware.

yes it is really good to have an oil cooler. had one on my waja, less jerking after an highway run (i mean RUN. ). didnt suffer much too after going for sprint race or track.

but i didnt buy hayden lah, just got one good condition form halfcut (GSR) for rm60 then hoses (braided fuel hose) for rm5/feet and connectors fof the cooler (rm30) and DIY. easy job but takes a bit of time to fit the cooler.

PM me if anyone needs help

Waht exactly is this crank pulley btw? And its definitely not cheap at RM500, thats for sure!

crank pulley is the mail pulley that is bolted on the the end of the crakshaft to run the aux belt (aircon, power steering, and alternator)
by lightening it is like lightening the flywheel (in theory at least) becoz it will reduce the weight of the mass that needs to be turned by the engine. so less effort is needed so more power is produced

but the downside is that this also acts as a balancer or a thing to produce momentum, so by reducing the weight u also in fact reduce the torque. this is not good for town drivng unless ur engine has high torque or u are driving on track.

for example, take a shaft (a pencil would be great) and twist it with ur fingers, now put some weight on one end and twist again.
u will find that it is easied to twist the lighter one at high speed but cannot mantain the speed once u slow down, but when the weight is added then there is more turning torque and the speed is easier mantained

now, take this principle and apply to the crank pulley.

wow.. so technical.. since u said this 3hp onli comes @ high rev, i don think it is a wise thing 2 upgrade 4 me. cz wat i'm suffering @ lower torque..
u know... when the traffic light turns green, there is no pick up power @ all..