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 Proton Savvy LYN Club V5, The survival skills

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e-lite
post Jan 6 2015, 10:32 PM

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QUOTE(richarddrifter @ Jan 6 2015, 07:24 PM)
I just dun give a damn about it, se + go kart + pickup/van. Why spent so much on a few grand value only small car?
Just drive it, attack corner with it, guna sampai jadi besi buruk.

17) using NCT 5, i like the slippery feel in corner. For me I can use one set 4 tyres only last for 3 months.
We all think so alike... smile.gif
e-lite
post Jan 6 2015, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 6 2015, 04:16 PM)
e-lite
that's also based on the max ignition advancement your mapping dictates la.
so it doesn't advance more than what was originally pre programmed in the ecu, it will only not retard the ignition so technically you're maximizing what your ecu offers (which isn't much if it was meant for RON91

i still don't understand why 4B10 10.5:1 will knock much easier with similar ignition timings as opposed to 4B11 10:1, despite having similar advancement to maximize RON95.
I only know how to advance ignition timing on this:
Attached Image

10 to 10.5 compression increase is a lot lah. Ron97 for u then!
e-lite
post Jan 9 2015, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 9 2015, 09:07 AM)
Not so sooooooon lar. Baru tukaq oil seal bulan lepai. Kena tunggu oil leak lagi baru bukak injin lagi laugh.gif Besides, that was Kastrol CRB, next is Petrogas Urania klu x dpt Shell Rimula brows.gif
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Which one is cheap cheap? flex.gif I like Mobil Delvac but mahal. Need to buy 25 gallon drum then share among all of us
e-lite
post Jan 11 2015, 01:28 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 10 2015, 11:16 PM)
Normaly cleaning and change gas for Plotong Shawie/GaGa BLM/FL/FLX are between 200~400(due to tedious job as need to dismantle dashboard to gain access to receiver dryer(cooling coil), that should include with the condensor(filter) and if need be change the thermostat control valve together(since already opened up), already slaughter ciken, don't kiamsiap on the kicap.

Other things not included if cooling coil bocor, paiping, condenser coil bocor, suis suis, wayaring, kompressor...etc. If full set overhaul, could touch up to RM1,700(not full set original brand new, talking about mixture of cap ayam replacement part and or include 2nd hand compressor).
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U make me wanna remove air con if mine got problem sad.gif
e-lite
post Feb 9 2015, 11:15 PM

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Any goodies that may interest me? I don't want anything engine related
e-lite
post Feb 26 2015, 11:42 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 26 2015, 06:21 PM)
So, what is the basis for you to justify Shawie is cheaper maintenance compare to a MyBi? I own 2 MyBis at home, both 2005 and LBLP. Have you got any idea how little maintenance I fork out for the dual P2 cars? Probably within this 10 years ownership, I've spent less than what I've spent on my Shawie alone in this 2 years. Set all those aside, the K3VE is running on timing chain, whereas a Shawie timing belt will expire in 80000km for Plotong original belting, 65000km for Renot original belting. Both are equally expansive at the range of RM450~500. Other than engine oil and filter, I literally spend nothing on my MyBi yawn.gif

Ayam sorry, cheap to maintain a manual transmission Shawie can only be used to compare with an AMT Shawie owner. There's nothing in a Shawie is cheaper than a MyBi, other than insurance, roadtax and resell value yawn.gif
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When want to put k3vet then?
e-lite
post Feb 27 2015, 08:10 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 27 2015, 05:59 AM)
If the damn thing died, probably sell kar bai vios liao whistling.gif
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Don't forget our dyno date.
e-lite
post Feb 27 2015, 10:54 PM

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Wah lau, I am in hometown's place. 3rd week of March?
e-lite
post Apr 3 2015, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(totox7 @ Apr 1 2015, 09:39 PM)
Hi to all, currently i am interested in buying a used manual Savvy. Maybe i will just search the car in mudah.com.my then bring her home. Because i have zero idea how to check the condition of the car, is it possible to send the car to RS Auto and hire them to check for me?
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please do that. savvy are cars that if you think that there is 1 problem, there is most definitely 3 problems elsewhere. however, all problems are well-documented and rectifiable. as long you're getting a good deal for the car, problems can fix later icon_rolleyes.gif
e-lite
post Jul 1 2015, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(aeppy @ Jun 30 2015, 02:36 PM)
guys, as a standard user, whats the best absorber for savvy?
mine all 4 leaking. i knew apm & proride only. maybe members here can share any other brand that is comfy & reliable.
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APM, Proride, OEM from Proton factory all come from the same factory manufacturer, Sapura Industrial is the parent company. Recommend Proride Heavy Duty or stock for cheap low maintenance cost Savvy.
e-lite
post Jul 5 2015, 08:21 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jul 4 2015, 03:38 PM)

Technically, any coolant is suffice. Even the rubbish NASA is good enough. You'll just have to make sure you're replacing with distill water instead of tap water, I think that's the most important thing you need to ensure of.
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But NASA put on space shuttle one wor wink.gif
e-lite
post Jul 5 2015, 03:48 PM

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QUOTE(aeppy @ Jul 5 2015, 07:37 AM)
heavy duty can use with original spring ya?not sure proride here got stock of this purple absorber. btw, thanks for info  notworthy.gif
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When u bought it already, let me know how much. I need to change mine soon also
e-lite
post Sep 6 2015, 11:32 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 4 2015, 05:05 PM)
If your speedometer still functioning, the jerking you mentioned sounded more like below. Otherwise, the 1st thing you should fix is the speed sensor. Cap ayam RM70~80. Renault original RM250.

1) Clutch cover lose tension. Nobody is going to sell you the cover alone, so you'll have to change the whole set. Recommending Renault original clutch kit full set together with release bearing at less then RM400. However, workmanship is slightly expansive, should be RM250.

2) If the jerk happens everytime you put down your foot no matter on still/movement the car will jerk for awhile, it could be the throttlebody. Throttlebody clean RM20, ECU reset throttlebody position RM50(must do after clean throttlebody). Replacement of used/recon throttlebody RM250.

3) If you're also simultaneously having difficulty to start. Plot the key to START, and you hear the starter kicking extremely fast as if the engine is not there, until several attempt then only it back to normal? When you have this problem, and the jerk does not happen EVERYTIME and only once in a blue moon, then it could be the TDC magnet is weak. RM80 for the part, replacement labor should be RM10~RM20/

Hope this help
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Sifu!

e-lite
post Sep 13 2015, 01:29 PM

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First of all, I would like to thank davidke20 for his awesome insights all these years, stainless brake hose, and rear saga bearings. He will live in my car forever.

So last week I wanted find out what is my stock OEM front spring rate. So I put an IKEA weighing scale under one wheel, and slowly drop it. The idea is to measure kg vs. mm spring compression. Needless to say, the experiment was inconclusive sad.gif , because of the spring preloads.

user posted image

So then I decided to find out what is my front OEM 20mm anti-roll bar aka sway bar spring rate. A few measurements and formula produces. The sway bar rate is 9.1 N/mm or means additional 4.55N/mm spring rate on each front wheel.


If money was falling from the skies, I would build my car to final weight spec, weigh it on each corners, and choose an adjustables spring. My recommended spring rate would be 30N/mm fronts and 40N/mm rears for a ride rate of 1.6 to 1.7 Hz
user posted image

This post has been edited by e-lite: Sep 13 2015, 01:30 PM
e-lite
post Sep 15 2015, 02:17 PM

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Toyota Vitz with turbo rclxms.gif rclxms.gif

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-OEM-Toyo...rts_Accessories
e-lite
post Sep 15 2015, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(Garmdagnir @ Sep 15 2015, 06:31 PM)
Sigh new problem just popped up, and my little Savvy was running so well for a while!

Engine on, idle at about 1500rpm!
Leave for up to 5 minutes still same.
Early morning cold weather or afternoon hot also same.
Aircond on or off also around the same.
If I tekan minyak, the idling rpm go up to 2000+ and stay around there pula!
Drive around the block, stays at 2000+

Then another thing happening at the same time, tekan brek but it seems less responsive and harder to tekan. I just recently changed brake pump and shoe and pad, it was working fine until this idle rpm issue happened.

Any ideas?
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Normally, higher rpm during idle means lesser amounts of air or more volatiles (fuel, oil, etc.) going into your engine.

But if course, this is a fuel injected car so I don't know if the electronics feedback loop is giving a problem. The car computer actually automatically adjusts the idle rpm.
e-lite
post Sep 25 2015, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(Ruzumaki @ Sep 23 2015, 05:39 PM)
Thank you for the reply.
I am able to crank my car as usual, just it doesn't start.
I don't find any different in the crank sound.
I will try to clean the TDC and throttle body myself later but I need some guidance.
I found some guide online but those guide are not detail enough for a noob like me to DIY.
Anyone got detailed guide (best if including step by step picture guide)?
Savoc forum seems like have been down for quite sometime, couldn't open any past savoc link.
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http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread....ocation&page=21 Ruzumaki
e-lite
post Sep 27 2015, 05:48 PM

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QUOTE(dembaba9000 @ Sep 27 2015, 02:18 PM)
hmmm, actually not that serious leh...the car actually accelerates quite smoothly, probably my bad in using the word "jerk".

The car doesn't jerk at all in fact, more like a vibration? macam the engine mounting kaput like that, I feel it very much on the break an d accelerator pedal. so it's just the constant vrrrom not going smoothly, macam the combustion tarak complete.
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I second David for looking at your plug cables or ignition coil pack. Sounds like a misfire
e-lite
post Oct 18 2015, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 18 2015, 11:43 AM)
sifu, thank you !!

haha....my hand gatal want change new car...

now using 2005 manual saga lmst....what you think? i actually lazy drive manual d, coz my place so many dum (bumper)....

my price <10k net....

any other suggestion welcome ya..

btw why so cheap? savvy market price not as good as myvi hmm.gif
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Don't be foolish. Unless you are prepared to have a car u have to learn from, stick to lmst or myvi. They are better trouble free cars
e-lite
post Nov 11 2015, 12:30 AM

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QUOTE(richarddrifter @ Nov 10 2015, 05:23 PM)
Hi, every Savvy lover.
My proton savvy clock 130k mileage last week,
After I change the timing belt and water pump, sound came out.
I using Renault timing belt set and Hamburg water pump, when It idling there's sound like "wiwiwiwi..." Came out.

Anyone had the same problems with me before?
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It might be from your accessory belts. Got sound like mouse under the cat? Try changing or tightening your belts for power steering, air con & alternator

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