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 Proton Savvy LYN Club V5, The survival skills

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e-lite
post Nov 11 2015, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(richarddrifter @ Nov 11 2015, 01:34 AM)
Seems like from the hamburg water pump which I change.
It's like a grinding sound, when i pedal more gasoline then more grinding sound came out.

If a belt problems will sound like "dak dak dak..." Or "ki ki ki ...."right?
But it wasn't any these two sound.

Let's say if really sound came from water pump, what does it means?
Can I simply ignore it? Thanksya
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Better bring back to the shop u changed to redo the whole thing. If it is coming from water pump, belt tensioner or timing belt that u changed, any rubbing or grinding for another 100,000km is going to break something. And usually if one of those fails, half of your engine will spoil, which is a lot of money. icon_question.gif blush.gif
e-lite
post Nov 17 2015, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(richarddrifter @ Nov 17 2015, 08:08 PM)
Finally got it fixed at Plotong service centre.
It's timing belt problem, it kept rubbing on top timing cover.
Although I using Renault genuine parts for Savvy, but according to plotong, they have several cases Savvy Noises due to using aftermarket timing belt. (including me using Renault belt.)
Arrgh... Darn...
Here goes another Rm500 include plotong timing belt + labour. shakehead.gif

As for the water pump, yes ,it will sound sometimes.
What I do is changed it back to the old one, previously which take out from my car one, still cantik-cantik takde bocor.
I must be buntut gatal to change this. rclxub.gif

Arrgh.. Fxxk it. shakehead.gif
Why other owner could use aftermarket parts and no kacau at all.
But for me , must stick to plotong parts? cry.gif
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I didn't use original timing belt but no problem. I used Bosch timing belt. But I was willing to spend more on labor and brought to Renautech because I know they know what they doing. U should let us know which shop u went to so we'll be careful. Usually is the timing belt cover not aligned properly or tensioner not tight enough.

My rule of thumb is 200,000km timing belt change or second timing belt change only change water pump or when water pump got noise or the wheel got play when u shake it (means bearing spoil)

user posted image

e-lite
post Dec 15 2015, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 15 2015, 11:01 AM)
Ni nak main lift off obersteer nie. Powah whistling.gif

The entire idea of Shawie is built in enormous of UNDER STEER, yet due to equally distributed weight and engine lean towards firewall, the entire center of gravity has been lowered and equally distributed over the 4 corners. If you wanted to have a taste of over steer, all you gotta do is plonk 195 tayar infront and 165 tayar at the back. Sure you spin like no tomolo! But despite that, your car will still sweep side ways DURING the spin. So, it's an understeer car.

To increase agility, you'll have to downgrade your tayar width to 165. I have many good memories with ATR K-Sport 165/55R14. Top speed is about 160kph as you tested, can reach 170kph by keeping it roll downhill. But in order to break that, you'll need Kirolsan to further tune your system because the little D4F topped out 6500rpm at 5th. So, you can't go any further until you raise your red line to 7k, might get a chance to jilat 190kph.

For exhaust, Shawie required much back pressure as the SOHC engine has very little top end power. In order to retain the back pressure and making sure smooth air flow, I think I changed to EVERCO if not mistaken. Very low noise emission and better mid range output in my opinion.

After driving this pocket rocket for sometime, I find myself unable to get a similar match in terms of handling from other cars. Despite people say Gentut/Personia punya handling bagui, but compare to a Shawie is still sampan like yawn.gif
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nothing beats a light short wheelbase machine. myvi got more understeer than any other car in the world.
e-lite
post Dec 24 2015, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(OOOOPP! @ Dec 23 2015, 06:58 PM)
Thanks Davidke. I thought the switches are direct fit. Better give up then.
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U better go to a Savvy chopshop and swap all the internals of the door over. All the stuff are different from manual Lite to automatic windows
e-lite
post Jan 28 2016, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(zerouzer @ Jan 27 2016, 06:08 PM)
Already went for a test drive.. Twice with different savvys but around same price..exterior looks ok but wow the engine is really trashed..going up a small inclination but the car really struggled..guess not my luck.. (Another savvy i tried too expensive after otr price but quality not that good either)
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hard to find a good and well-maintained savvy sad.gif . it's a cheap car and ppl usually trash it, even myself. but patience and you will find one waiting for you.
e-lite
post Feb 19 2016, 01:55 PM

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I am using Michelin XM2s 175/70R13 (Front) and 165/65R13 (Rear). Expensive compared to others but I like the longevity and quietness. Sucks in handling though.
e-lite
post Apr 6 2016, 10:56 AM

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e-lite
post Apr 19 2016, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(capiche @ Apr 18 2016, 08:37 PM)
Hi,

Anyone bought Elf Tranself NFJ 75w-80 recently? May I know what's the street price at the moment?

Thanks!
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capiche~RM45 from Proton. Outside can get cheaper but may doubt its authenticity. I don't know how much from Renault Tan Chong.
e-lite
post Apr 22 2016, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(akib_mullen @ Apr 21 2016, 07:14 PM)
Why my savvy mt cannot masuk gear reverse. Sometimes it occurs. Bila tarik thing bawah gear knob untuk mase gear reverse and engage, that thing jatuh so gear 1 engage instead, not gear reverse. Then bila nak engage gear 1 tak boleh, stuck macam ada benda block dekat gear 1 tu
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akib_mullen
The "tarik thing bawah gear knob" sometimes gets loose. Screw/rotate the "tarik thing bawah gear knob" it in clockwise looking from the top of the gear knob and see whether can or not.
e-lite
post Apr 22 2016, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(akib_mullen @ Apr 22 2016, 08:50 PM)
Ok later i try pusing. But then e-lite, why tak boleh masuk gear 1 kalau tak tarik that thing? Got one time dekat traffic light tak boleh masuk gear 1 so masuk gear 2 rev kuat sikit  laugh.gif

But then, if not mistaken, gear reverse cannot engage bila lampu engine oil menyala. Then tiap kali pass thru bonggol jadi macam ni. Engine oil lamp akan hidup bila rpm below ~1.3k masa tekan clutch + tukar gear. After rev lebih 1.3k + release clutch that lamp tak on dah. Adakah sebab minyak gearbox low? Atau oil pressure sensor kong?

Suspek minyak gearbox low but that kalu lepas tukar minyak still happens rugi lah tukar. Nak cari root cause sekarang ni
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akib_mullen sorry wrong info, actually need to open the leather cover under the gear knob and pusing anti-clockwise. Ada satu plastic hitam bawah spring. If difficult to go in gear 1 as well, you have to adjust the shift shaft from under the car

You better bring your engine to proper workshop to check immediately. Low engine oil light is not to be messed with. If I got low engine oil pressure light, I will immediately off the engine and tow to workshop; not worth the risk
e-lite
post Feb 23 2017, 02:54 PM

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QUOTE(fireballs @ Feb 22 2017, 05:28 PM)
can also get in proton part center shah alam
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fireballs nice to see you still continuing our Proton Savvy thread. I still driving Savvy and going strong but hardly online here.

I just stocked up on a second set of Clutch Cable as my first one broke. Important for every manual Savvy to keep in the car as spare.
e-lite
post Jun 2 2018, 04:29 PM

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QUOTE(mhn21 @ May 27 2018, 07:46 PM)
hi guys any advice on coil springs for the savvy? changed my absorbers but want to change the springs too.

the spare part shops only stock saga blm spring, does anyone know if they are identical?
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Front springs are the same. Rear springs BLM a bit stiffer and taller, but I prefer it that way and used to have it on my Savvy. Just remember to get the BLM springs and not the FLX springs. FLX is too stiff

Springs are lifetime item. Should not need to replace one unless you too much money smile.gif

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