Do you on ECO mode?

Older car use 0W-20? I tot it is for hybrid.
Wondering i can use it for my CRV 2.4 2014? As im using Honda Fully Synt 0W-30.

Check your car manual, if listed, you can use xw20 oil without problem.

Alright thanks. Any diff between 0w-20 & 0w-30? Lighter can give better FC?

This post has been edited by dopamine: Feb 1 2019, 01:30 PM

Front number is cold viscosity, not such a concern in our climate as that's rating for colder climate. Rear number is the "thickness" at operating temperature, lower number means thinner.

Imagine you have 2 pot, 1 filled with plain water and the other porridge. Which pot uses less effort to stir? Lighter oil will give some benefit of fuel consumption. If the flow is easier, more fluid will flow per unit of time, which means better cooling also.

Just remember, thin oil doesn't mean it will compromise protection and cause more internal wear..

When it comes to EO, its always a catch 22. Lesser viscosity provides better FC, whereas higher viscosity provides better lubrication and protection. Based on manufacture manual, we should balanced it out as the car gets older.

For those who are still not clear about...using the same porridge and water analog.

Imagine, you pour it on the floor and use your hand to rub back and forth.

Water helps your hand to move faster but wear is higher and heats up faster whereas porridge slows down the movement, hence lesser heat and wear.

Cheers

Deleted. Sorry wrong trade.

This post has been edited by HippyTony: Feb 1 2019, 04:07 PM

My porridge and water analogy was mainly meant for flow comparison, it wasn't a good analogy when come to terms with wear. Engine oil in an operating environment works under pressure, and the moving components literally "float" above another component, supported by the oil film and additives. Moving "faster" doesn't equate to higher wear when the components aren't even touching.

The oil film strength and additives (usually extreme pressure additives like moly/titanium/sulfur/phosphorus/boron/etc) hardly reach to the operating limits stated in the oil specs on normal driving condition (even very hard city ah beng aggressive driving is a mere walk in the park compared to the intensity in the test environment to derive the spec numbers). Component manufacturing tolerances are getting better, hence unhoned peak points (which give rise to friction) are lesser, thereby giving rise the ability to use thinner viscosity oil.

Unless driving under really very tough environment (drag racing, constant high rev during a race or constantly digging your 4x4 out of a muddy trench using low gear with the car almost at snail pace), where a lot of heat and pressure from redline very high rev, hardly able to really "stress" the oil even if using thinner oil. If the engine oil pressure is not up to operating range/oil starvation issue, that's a whole different topic and even using high viscosity oil can hardly help in component protection as the surface coating of the components comes into greater play.

This post has been edited by wkc5657: Feb 1 2019, 04:11 PM

I think your experience was a valid note...do share

100% on

Oh you read my story. Ok will redo it. Thanks for reading.

My EO story.
My car is 11+years. About 2+ years ago out of the blue my car EO red light service interval flash on the 8th month, normally the service interval amber light will flash on the 11th month and required service on 12th month. I’m a low miler averaging about 8-9K a year.

Took my car in to my regular SC and I asked the SA whether they changed their house brand EO 5w30 formula. He said “No, it’s the same.” After the EO changed, again on the 8th month the red light EO service interval flash again. Took in my car for service, this time the SA admitted that their house brand EO formula has been changed. He said only my car has this problem with the new EO. Before the new EO my car had no problems and no EO consumption.

I’m now using 5w40 EO and I no longer service my car there. My car engine is now quieter, smoother but petrol consumption has increase a bit. EO consumption is not as bad compared to 5w30. I used to get 55km/4liter, now I’m getting 53-54km/4liter. The car pickup was a bit slower than before. This is due to higher viscosity. It’s not so noticeable now comparing to when I first switched my EO to 5w40.

In addition, wrong EO made my car run hotter and couldn’t last the programmed service interval. My car engine cooling fan run more often after engine shut down. With the 5w40 EO the cooling fan now does not stay on as often.

This post has been edited by HippyTony: Feb 1 2019, 08:42 PM

Dunno liao. I sent to service centre since day 1 and let them handle. Engine still ok, so should be fine.

I think no problem kot, maybe u can ask ur service advisor..u still sent at sc or outside..but, different engine grade. Maybe urs is newer engine la. That is why.

1) Model : Wira 1.5 (M) EFi (2001)
2) Petrol Used : Shell 95
3) Engine Oil Used : Shell HX7 10w-40


4) Fuel Consumption : ~14km/l real measured average
5) Driving Condition : 70% highway 30% city
6) Average Speed/Max rpm : 70-80km/h, 1800-2300rpm
7) Latest mileage : ~400km
8) Modification : None
9) Tank Size : ~28 litre


4) Fuel Consumption : ~8.5km/l measured average
5) Driving Condition : 30% highway 70% city
6) Average Speed/Max rpm : ~40km/h, 1800-2300rpm
7) Latest mileage : ~210km
8) Modification : None
9) Measured fuel usage : ~26 litre


4) Fuel Consumption : ~17.84km/l measured trip from Perak to KL with no jam
5) Driving Condition : 90% highway 10% city
6) Average Speed/Max rpm : ~90km/h, ~2500rpm
7) Measured mileage : ~223km
8) Modification : None
9) Measured fuel usage : ~12.5 litre

This post has been edited by RigerZ: May 24 2019, 11:40 AM

1) Model: Honda City 2009 1.5
2) Petrol Used: RON95 (Caltex)
3) Engine Oil Used: Petronas Syntium 800 5w30
4) Fuel Consumption average: 15.5 km/l based on speedometer rating
5) Driving Condition: 60% highways 40% City
6) Average Speed/Max rpm: On highway 100-kmh/ RPM 2.1k
7) Latest mileage: 108k km
8) Modification: Stock
9) Tank Size: RM73 at RM2.08 per liter
10) Tire size: 185/55 R16

1) Model : Toyota Vios 2006 1.5E ( 1st Generation )
2) Petrol Used : 95 & 97 exclude racing type. ( Petrol brand name it, i've tried it. )
3) Engine Oil Used : Shell HX-7 / Recently changed to Exol
4) Fuel Consumption : About 8.60km/l
5) Driving Condition : 90% city, 10% highway
6) Average Speed/Max rpm : Average 60km/h - 90km/h ( City Ride )
7) Latest mileage : 182k+
8) Modification : Spark Plug Iridium / Engine Stock
9) Tire Size : 195/55/15
10) Tank Size : 45 liter

Pump Full tank till Petrol Leak out
Still runs only about 330km - 340km till last bar lights up, sometimes will push it till 360km before refuel.

Well, used to go till 440km+ Full Tank.
couldn't find the caused of this drop

deleted

This post has been edited by budang: Jul 31 2019, 12:50 PM

My current ride:
1) Model : BMW F30 318i (LCI) 2018 1.5 3 cylinder twin scroll turbo 8 speed ZF Automatic torque converter
2) Petrol Used : Petronas Ron95
3) Engine Oil Used : Serviced by BMW, not sure what they use but it's fully synthetic
4) Latest mileage : ~26,000km
5) Modification : None
6) Tire size : 225/50/17 Bridgestone Potenza Run flat

Scenario 1 (Daily driving)
7) Fuel Consumption : 11.5 - 12.0 km/l (measured against on board trip computer & actual petrol used)
8) Driving Condition : 10% highway 90% city
9) Average Speed/Max rpm : 25km/h, RPM can't measure due to constant stop & go (heavy - standstill traffic 80% of the time)


Scenario 2 (Interstate driving on PLUS highway)
7) Fuel Consumption : 19 - 21km/l (measured against on board trip computer & actual petrol used)
8) Driving Condition : 90% highway 10% city
9) Average Speed/Max rpm : 100 - 120km/h, 1850-2000rpm


My previous ride:
1) Model : Perodua Myvi 2011 (Lagi Best edition) 1.3 Ezi naturally aspirated 4 speed torque converter Auto
2) Petrol Used : Petronas Ron95
3) Engine Oil Used : Perodua genuine oil Semi Synthetic 5W-30
4) Latest mileage : ~107,000km
5) Modification : K&N Drop-in air filter & full set hotbits catback exhaust system
6) Tire size : 175/65/14 Nexen rear & Hankook front


Scenario 1 (Daily driving)
7) Fuel Consumption : 12.0 - 13.0 km/l (measured against on board trip computer & actual petrol used)
8) Driving Condition : 10% highway 90% city
9) Average Speed/Max rpm : 25km/h, RPM can't measure due to constant stop & go (heavy - standstill traffic 80% of the time)

Scenario 2 (Interstate driving on PLUS highway)
7) Fuel Consumption : 16 - 17km/l (measured against on board trip computer & actual petrol used)
8) Driving Condition : 90% highway 10% city
9) Average Speed/Max rpm : 100 - 120km/h, 2700-3200rpm

Wow 3 pot and 8 speed really save fuel ya, very impressed.

It is indeed very fuel saving considering the vehicle is nearly 1.5 tonnes. But part of it is also because I'm really light on the gas most of the time and hardly exceed 120km/h when travelling inter-state.

Use to have my family dugong vios, one of the best fc car.
Averaging at 14-15km/l.

Suggest use Fully synthetic, i just bought promo shell helix 5w40 at tesco at rm80-100 (depends on offer).

Then, try long distance highway for fuel consumption mileage. I foresee it can give more than the 8.6km/l.

Unless u can go to mechanic with a scan tool to diagnose your car problems for higher fc. Happen to mine when one of the shop replace the spark plug for model wira on my waja, fc getting high but power become less, not able to reach more than 140kmh. Change back to original spec waja spark plug, then ok

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Aug 1 2019, 08:11 AM