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 Yamaha LC135 Y15ZR Y16ZR Club - V18, King of kings

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TSalexei
post Apr 9 2021, 04:37 PM

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This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 9 2021, 10:42 PM
TSalexei
post Apr 9 2021, 04:37 PM

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This post has been edited by alexei: Apr 9 2021, 10:41 PM
TSalexei
post Apr 9 2021, 04:38 PM

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Specifications:
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TSalexei
post Apr 23 2021, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(Asthen1a @ Apr 23 2021, 09:13 AM)
kesian, belanja u all photo  brows.gif

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your bike? welcome to the club.
TSalexei
post Jun 9 2021, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(botakchek @ Jun 9 2021, 04:37 PM)
Hi, can i check which RCB monoshock cepat lembut? Cos got new models of RCB suspension, looking at the DB2 line... aji racing also have these type and it's so much cheaper though.

Also, how about fork upgrades? Riding a X1R. The stock fork and suspension makes me feel like i'm riding a boat when doing minor cornering.... although bike is a bit old.

First time kup owner here, coming from a dirt bike... so much difference in handling.
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RCB - decent internals, some can service.
Fork - upgrade with cartridge internals from YSS.

TSalexei
post Jun 11 2021, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(botakchek @ Jun 11 2021, 01:37 AM)
Thanks man! I'm gg for the RCB DB2 Line.

Any advice regarding the aji racing fork kits? It's a lot more affordable than the YSS one, unless it is a massive difference...

Also, just changed tyres to bridgestone battlax bt39, handles so well
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It's not about the kit, it's who can make the adjustments for you. I haven't tried those but I'm sure there are recipe out there. I'd start with a 15wt fork oil.
Battlax is superb, make sure you got the correct speed rating. There are SS and non-SS ones.
TSalexei
post Jun 22 2021, 08:26 AM

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QUOTE(botakchek @ Jun 21 2021, 04:28 PM)
Thanks for the advice.

Got front 80/90 SS and rear 90/80 non SS.

Stocks are quite bad in SG for BT39...

Went to my workshop recently to tune/clean up the carb, realised the previous owner of the bike used an open pod air filter... the bike kept bogging previously.

Now after added the stock airbox + filter, it's better but there is still a very big flat spot after the first 1000rpm from moving off... very difficult to ride in city traffic. The power still only comes in very late @ high rpm.

15-41 gear ratio already but the pickup is still so bad.

Going to change to uma plug coil + uma iridium plug, see if that helps.

Any idea what else I should look at? Bike is pretty old, 2009 x1r, which should be same as lc v1.

Suspect the block + piston upsize before too.
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Is it still using the stock carb? Did you take note the jet sizes? Pilot jet, main jet. Is the TPS still in use?

Original carb has 'accelerator pump' that launch the bike when pulling the throttle off idle.
Notice the fine stream of fuel jetted into the carb when throttle is pulled.
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TSalexei
post Jun 23 2021, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(botakchek @ Jun 23 2021, 02:10 PM)
Non stock carb, using this SP carb that's most likely a copy. It's 28mm one that my mechanic recently bored it slightly.

No idea on jet sizes or TPS... i hope to eventually open up the carburetor myself to service but he has cleaned it thoroughly already.

I also just switched out the stock CDI to the UMA one that is programmable. Left it on stock 12000 rpm redline, map 3 and advanced timing by 1. It seems to run quite a lot better but there's still some slight sputtering at gear 1.

About to go try and switch out the ignition coil + spark plug to the uma ones as well.

Regarding the cams, it's probably changed cos when I took over from the previous owner he gave me a spare cam, no idea if it's stock or anything.

The intake sound on the bike is so bloody loud whenever i open > 1/2 throttle it gets irritating hahahaha, way louder than my GPR exhaust.

Workshop prices are insane to check the head.... I have to pay upwards of 1000rm to get the top part overhauled ie. cleaning the block/piston/head, no idea if valve clearances are checked as well.

Can't wait for the border to open again so I can visit the workshops in JB.....
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Too advance can cause sputtering, until a point that is hardly rideable.
Sounds like you're interested in high RPM rides, so definitely some mid range power will be lacking, esp if high performance cam.

High RPM needs to retard. Don't ask me why.
TSalexei
post Jun 24 2021, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(botakchek @ Jun 24 2021, 01:38 PM)
I'm the total opposite man, i like quick pickup!

Not into high speeds, coming from a scrambler...
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I see, alright, do let us know how your mods go.
TSalexei
post Jun 27 2021, 08:10 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Jun 26 2021, 12:53 AM)
Hi, between y16 and y15 for daily short distance use. Which one is better ?
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Actually what's your thoughts? Have you viewed and tested both?
Pick the one that feels right for you.

What is the distance? Is it safe where you park? Do you plan to mod it? Any plans to get big bike later?
TSalexei
post Jul 22 2021, 09:03 AM

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QUOTE(ahmy @ Jul 21 2021, 10:00 AM)
Hi, im using LC135 (standard) and now i need to travel about 40km+ to work, do you guys have any suggestion what to do if i want to comfortably cruise at 100-110 km/h?

for now is ok but can hear the rmp high to cruise that speed, i use regina chain 428 15t-39t. Should i change the sprocket to 38t on my next chain or any other suggestion?
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I'd suggest change the front sprocket to 16, to drop the 100km/h RPM by ~500.
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16T front sprocket is easier to modulate the rear sprocket for daily use, compared to 15T.
Also, bigger sprockets means better overall chain life.
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TSalexei
post Jul 23 2021, 08:14 AM

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QUOTE(ahmy @ Jul 22 2021, 09:09 PM)
hmm on shopee i couldn't find lc 135 chain + sprocket package with 16t infront. maybe need to go to the shop and ask right. they should have stock.

Thank you for all the suggestion, will try later on next change
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Welcome

https://shopee.com.my/Yamaha-Y15ZR-RXZ-Y125...3015.5475413080
TSalexei
post Jul 24 2021, 09:49 PM

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It's up to you what sprocket you want to use.
Smaller is lighter, and less chain links.
Bigger is opposite... among other things.
TSalexei
post Jul 30 2021, 05:05 PM

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QUOTE(lms2005 @ Jul 27 2021, 11:51 PM)
lc 5s if chg uma pwk 28mm, the intake base need to chg?
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I think so...
TSalexei
post Aug 31 2021, 08:43 PM

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QUOTE(Devil7801 @ Aug 31 2021, 07:36 PM)
Hi guys, any pomen or LC v1 expert here?I am currently restoring my friend's bike.. Yamaha LC v1.. The bike now runs, but there is a small leak from this thing here.. Since LC v1 carb are different from my own later version, I got no idea how to fix this or even if it fixable in first place as I can't find any way to dissemble it..

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I am really looking forward to fix this rather than having to buy a new carburetor since LC v1 carb are expensive nowadays, which will hurt my friend's budget in restoring his old bike.. Thanks
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That is the accelerator pump, to give more petrol when pulas throttle.
Can you try remove the rubber boot, and see if there is any clip underneath it?
Service manual says to replace the whole bowl...

Or, just remove the pump arm so not to use it, and see if the bike rides normally. Then, find a way to seal the leaking pump shaft.

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TSalexei
post Sep 1 2021, 08:19 AM

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QUOTE(Devil7801 @ Aug 31 2021, 09:37 PM)
Yeah I noticed that too.. The pump only works when throttle on 75-100%.. Already remove the rubber boot, only have the shaft.. Well if only I can just buy the lower bowl it should be okay, but where to look since most sparepart only sell 1 whole carb, if there is any stock on original... The thing is it leaks even unused, so yeah might need to plug the hole..
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maybe have to pull it out.
there might be a check valve in there, a steel ball with spring, so be careful.
TSalexei
post Oct 31 2021, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(seliparbata @ Oct 30 2021, 01:04 PM)
usually how much pomen will charge for changing lc135 air filter and change coolant ah? anyone knows?
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Normally I learn to change myself, save some RM5~15 difference if buy from shop. Shop price usually siap pasang.
So, if you bought elsewhere and bring to shop to pasang, it will be cost more.

Depends what the pomen do.
Air filter LC is hard to change, many coverset to open - maybe RM10~15?
Coolant work is relatively easier, but also depends how much extra work to put in to flush old coolant - probably 10~15 as well.

Pomen kecil-kecilan maybe charge cheaper than pomen kedai besar.
TSalexei
post Nov 25 2021, 02:33 PM

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QUOTE(s@ni @ Nov 24 2021, 12:50 PM)
as for me, ada geng y16zr tak?
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macam not yet here
TSalexei
post Jan 17 2022, 08:49 AM

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Uncle_BennyWelcome. Find a shop with good workmanship.
DearJTWelcome. Look at the bike code: LC V1 = 5YP, LC 4S = 55D, LC 5S = 55C

QUOTE(bonez_xy @ Jan 16 2022, 03:22 PM)
hye anyone have idea how much roughly do i need to repaint my fork, engine cover and arm if send it to paint shop?
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Depends on the expected workmanship, and quality of paint. I'd say RM60~300.
Some things can consider just buy new and sell old one off.
TSalexei
post Mar 24 2022, 10:51 AM

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QUOTE(bdk321 @ Mar 23 2022, 11:56 AM)
Hi guys, y15 v1 user here. Mileage is clocking 30k soon. Never did any major service before besides changing EO and filter. Any recommendation on what service, parts change should be done next?

And currently running 110/70 & 90/80 with Givi Monorack + 32 Bold box on 60km (return) daily commute to work. Feels the bike is starting to struggle and sluggish a bit with the weight. Any recommendation for a smaller rim/tire setup that is good for daily commute?

Thank you in advance for any reply/recommendation.
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Top end service if that is needed
block, piston, rings, head, valve, timing chain

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