Nice. Really nice because ur setting same with mine currently, the different, i use UMA 32MM.
I dont like the 28MM version because the breathing when "tarik" koyak too loud. ahahahah
If use 32mm, when "tarik" soft and longgggg.
Ahahaha

Right now, rider only worried about the License or Roadtax only. Ahahaha, when roadblock, if can U-turn, they will u-Turn,
Ahahahaha.

if u-turn with clear traffic or masuk lorong tikus takpa la, kalau jenis u-turn ikut sukak siap angkat motor kat divider tu memang pening nak hadam

hi guys, i plan to buy secondhand LC from mudah..

you guys got any checklist/buyer guide i should tick when checking the bike ?

intake as in air filter, or the funnel intake.
head ori with uma cam, most likely can't go high rpm, as the valve size and port size is small.

The reason is, when you increase engine size from 135cc to 178cc, there is alot more combustion gas in the engine. Using stock head means, you are limiting air into and out of engine like 135cc only, although your piston/block is 178cc.
This means, you can get max power very early (good pickup), but cant pull to high rpm as the power has clipped off (low top speed).

Besides this, UMA exhaust is designed for 150cc, the airflow out of engine isnt that good too.

U can increase the lightness and top rpm / top speed by changing the carburetor mainjet and CDI setting (recommend map3 +1).
However, as the basic mechanical has flaw, u need to change to UMA big valve head and a straight pipe (max 28mm primary pipe size) to get superb top speed.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Nov 24 2017, 01:31 PM

haha. i heard alot of times i need to change the head. but then the head need another 1K+ right.
ya now the pickup is good. but the top speed really not so good. this few day even more gg. the speed will drop when 4th gear, feel like the carb oil is too much. very mafan o the uma carb like cant pull oil at traffic light or cant suddenly pull more oil will mati engin. lol
and for the uma paip actually i really can feel the uma paip is not enough for this but then i dun like the open paip also. polis will kacau

btw, may i know where are you from? maybe can suggest some shop that can do nice setting for carb and cdi? i around seri kembangan area.
else i might thinking to change back all to ori already. tired already haha. feels like dunwan to spend too much money on bike again.

Bigger carb and race cam is meant to increase power 6000 - 12000rpm. Anything below 6000rpm will have drop in power, so u cannot suddenly go full throttle when launching bike at start, due to vacuum around intake area (race cam character). Stock cam and stock carb can do it as they are designed to have good power from 3000rpm to 7000rpm. So, when you ride the bike, first must understand the mechanics of race cam and bigger carbs. Of course, I am suspecting the carb setting isn't accurate too.

Besides, it is a weird combo: your race cam and big carb is meant for 6000 - 12000rpm power, but the head and pipe doesn't allow it. That's why the carb and CDI setting is tough, not easy to get accurate one.

Speed drop when 4th gear is because the exhaust (head and pipe) backpressure is too much, limiting the airflow. Pipe and head need to lepas more gas at higher rpm, so the engine can breathe in new fresh air.

stock pipe is even worse than UMA pipe. Open pipe need to custom make, I DIY ownself and ask fren to make it. Not expensive, just around RM250+
For my case polis no kacau bcoz when I cruise, the bike is very silent. Only when going all out, then the bike will scream (which sounds very nice).

Im from Penang. I only know Tuneboss fella in PJ, but they are not setting CDI/Carb.

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Nov 27 2017, 09:19 AM

penang many mechanic can mod decent lc with cam carb korek head and 62-65 block, bcome quite normal

yes, need to know how to korek the head. mine also using korek pairing with slightly bigger valve. Port shape is very important here to get the right powerband.

hi guys

good to know we've got lc135 tered here! so umm...my lc v1 year of made 2007 is sluggish already. top 120 oso hard to get. all standard condition. got some fren siad they heard something bunyi like 'rod' or crankshaft mia sound. ayam not sure if they speak true o not cuz for all this while my moto got no problem except its already lemau no power...is this 'rod/crankshaft' sound issue normal for 10 years old bike?

another question. say if i want to tukar block fz150, apa lagi kena mau tuka? prefer hly ori barang. pls tell me how much roughly need to prepare.

Guys. Any of you have experience with getting the rear drum brake replaced with disc brake on lc 135? Is it possible to have disc brake instead for the rear tire

can. but u must change sport rim oso lah, need to buy rear sport rim that use disc brake. that's all.

Try re-jet and tune your bike 1st. Original head already enough just need to adjust combustion chamber and just mirror polish the exhaust hole. No need to porting if you want to achieve top speed. I only porting when use 65mm and above. When, you have extra money then you can change to bigger valve for extra performance. Bigger valve not necessary.

Just my opinion.



Hi,
Blok - RM250 - RM 300
Coolant - RM 15
Labor - RM 50 - RM 100

Total = RM 550 - 600

Not include engine oil and oil filter.

Yes you can have it. Like moodswingfella said need to change rear sportrim to disc brake type.

block included with piston? other than that, need to re-tune carb or anything else need to change wor? etc rod ka apa ka

thx for ur reply

This post has been edited by moodswingfella: Nov 30 2017, 12:22 AM

hi guys, need to ask in regards of service - y15zr.

1st service - 1000km
2nd service - 2800km

My current mileage reading now is around 4400km and last time my foreman ask to come and change at 6000km. But the problem is now I'm feeling the bike starting to feel heavy to move. Any idea what might cause this?

This post has been edited by bdk321: Nov 30 2017, 11:30 AM

Yes include piston, piston ring, piston pin and gasket. Just need to re-tune your air screw. No need to re-jet. Harden valve spring and clutch spring. Check the rod if problem then need to change.

Hi,
Mineral = 1000km - 1500km
Semi synthetic = 2000km - 2500km
Fully = 2500km - 3500km
Don't go with the maximum milage.

Which category oil did you use?
You have another 1600km more and total milage is 3200km from 2nd service to estimate last service.

everytime change oil save in your phone or take picture of meter easy to mark down.

Hi everyone, so after changing the EO will have extra 100ml right as it only use 900ml. So what to do with the excess EO?

Hello guys.

I'm ijam, from kl.

I really need your help about superhead 22/24 for lc135.

Currently, my Lc still in bengkel, but right now on hold bcuz confuse to choose between 19/22 & 22/24 superhead.

Blok size 66mm
Jekrod 4mm

Can anyone share with me the maintenance?

Keep it. Gather it until 900ml then you can save money.

Hi,
Uma superhead?
24/22. Almost same like my spec. My blok size 67mm jack 5mm.
Use good engine oil example motul 7100.
Heat will increase with this spec and you need to search better cooling solution.
Adding radiator or change to bigger radiator is required if you can find a suitable mounting.
I use oil coolant to cooling the engine oil but still need to add another fan to remove the heat.
Make sure the setting is right.

This post has been edited by man_sate: Dec 5 2017, 01:55 PM