Can but it won't be so clean.. Since your aircond is still cold, means the condenser is working fine.. Don't need cleaning actually.

Recommended replacement interval is 100,000km and replace with either:

IZFR6K13 (NGK) Iridium
SKJ20DR-M13 (DENSO) Iridium

I personally will change them out every 75,000km to be safe (taken into consideration idling time for being stuck in traffic jams).

Normally in the range of RM200 - 250 for a set of 4 plugs. (Excluding workmanship).

Be careful though as there are many fake iridium plugs out there. So you better buy from reputable sellers / workshops.

Visit VMAG lor.. I'll be going there this Saturday to get my lower arm replacement.

I think the cost is about the same.. Workshops will need to send to a machinist to press out the old bushing and insert the new one.. It all adds up the workmanship.

Some more, the GM2's lower arm is not only the bushing, there's a ball joint also.

So, definitely more cost effective to replace the entire lower arm.

Use back ori lor... Since it lasted for such a long time. Expensive a bit also nvm.

If use 3rd party, I don't think it can last as long.

Your car what year and travelled how many KM already?

It's about time already lor..

Do you feel your steering wheel wobbles a little when going over uneven road?

Ride felt harsher?

Went to Vmag to let Andrew inspect the lower arm.. He said my suspension is still good and no sound. Only slight dry rot on the lower arm bush but need to open it to really look at the ball joint.

On the other hand, I noticed the outer tie rod end boot was crack and there was slight free play.

May ask him to replace both the lower arm and outer tie rod next week to get back the solid feel of a new car.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Dec 11 2021, 04:15 PM

Yes.. they do all Hondas and other cars also... But mainly Hondas.

No need.. just don't start your car can already.

After you cleaned the MAF, felt any difference?

So what's next on your mind to restore your GM2?

Update for you guys.. Just done replacing the lower arm and tie rod end. The feel after replacing these parts is great. Steering feel became firmer, less harsh vibration feel on rough asphalt and less knocking sound when going through potholes.

I feel if your car is 10 years old and above, it is worth changing these parts or at least inspect to see whether it is worn out.





The blue circle shows the ball joint.. Mine was loose and have free play which means time for replacement.

The yellow circle also shows the bushing is a worn out. You can basically wiggle it front and back.. Under normal circumstances, it should not move as the rubber bushing will absorb the vibration and knocks.

I forgot to snap the worn tie rod end photo but it also has free play dy.

So what are you all waiting for? Go change it and feel the difference.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Dec 16 2021, 01:27 PM

Parts, labour and alignment.. Around 1100.. I just let VMAG order the parts for me.. Sometimes will get special discount.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Dec 16 2021, 01:37 PM

Yes. It is safe to let him get the parts.. Even if he takes a bit of margin, it is still a lot cheaper than other workshops that sells you the parts.

Have to cari makan ma.. so it is ok.

Lower arms are genuine Honda... Tie rod end is 555 brand (Made in Japan).

KYB Excel G... This absorber is a little bit on the hard side but it is cheap and affordable.

My next replacement will go back to Showa again.

If you're looking for a comfortable ride, don't play with KYB RS Ultra lor. Even their normal Excel G is a little stiff for me> Thus, the RS Ultra will be even stiffer.

If you have the budget, best to go for Showa and replace all the absorber mounting, bump stops etc.

This post has been edited by Thrust: Dec 16 2021, 06:28 PM

Showa is more expensive. I think the front alone cost around rm300+ a piece.