Juz done mine on MAF n MAP sensors

Here you go bro

After you cleaned the MAF, felt any difference?

Guys, I tried to clean the MAF sensor, but after spraying, the liquid will not evaporate. What should I do now?

MAF cleaner but not liqui moly one but CRC

Alright, maybe I did it at night and the air was cold? Cuz I was busy in the afternoon

I waited about 30 minutes for it to dry completely and the car can start without any issue.

The back side with black plastic has stain d, I thought its moisture but then when I touch it it is dry.

Performance wise not much difference, but feel very slight improvement in power when moving from still.

Update for you guys.. Just done replacing the lower arm and tie rod end. The feel after replacing these parts is great. Steering feel became firmer, less harsh vibration feel on rough asphalt and less knocking sound when going through potholes.

I feel if your car is 10 years old and above, it is worth changing these parts or at least inspect to see whether it is worn out.


The blue circle shows the ball joint.. Mine was loose and have free play which means time for replacement.

The yellow circle also shows the bushing is a worn out. You can basically wiggle it front and back.. Under normal circumstances, it should not move as the rubber bushing will absorb the vibration and knocks.

I forgot to snap the worn tie rod end photo but it also has free play dy.

So what are you all waiting for? Go change it and feel the difference.

Parts, labour and alignment.. Around 1100.. I just let VMAG order the parts for me.. Sometimes will get special discount. 

Lower arms are genuine Honda... Tie rod end is 555 brand (Made in Japan).

KYB Excel G... This absorber is a little bit on the hard side but it is cheap and affordable.

My next replacement will go back to Showa again.

If you're looking for a comfortable ride, don't play with KYB RS Ultra lor. Even their normal Excel G is a little stiff for me> Thus, the RS Ultra will be even stiffer.

If you have the budget, best to go for Showa and replace all the absorber mounting, bump stops etc.

Actually, if one decides to fully restore the absorber, be prepared to fork out around RM1.2k for Showa absorbers. This includes replacing all the absorber mounting, bump stops, dust cover etc.

I agak agak only but I believe it will definitely be cheaper than 1.7k.

Do check if you have a pool of oil sitting on top of the solenoid gearbox ?

Leaks might be multiple locations according to those city driver on fb
Like spool valve, VTEC solenoid, engine oil caps or engine head cover seal etc

You can send it over to VMAG and ask him to replace all those solenoid seals. It won't cost much.

Any recommendations for aircon flushing around KL/Selangor?

You try clean it again and observe further. Sometimes, those residue could be from outside rain water that went in during your drive in the rain.

Spool valve is VTEC solenoid filter
The orange circle area were the solenoid for AT
Bottom solenoid will have a piece of solenoid gasket on it

i googled spool valve its the same with solenoid kan?
there is no noticeable oil elsewhere, it may not be clear in the pic but its quite clear from what i look the trace of oil is from the highlighted part. it didn't even seep further.
engine oil and head cover is totally different part so I'm positive that's not the case.
in any case, i have replaced my engine oil cap late last year. there is oil around it before and i thought oil might be spilled during engine oil change over the years.
Vmag did say it might spill from engine oil cap so just replaced it since its 10 years + cheap.

i highlight again in orange colour here:

so its really there and called solenoid seals right?

Maybe vtec solenoid gasket koyak dy.

What is your mileage now?