Isn't using Tamiya Compound can solve this?

Tamiya Compound can help you on this,  check it out on Youtube. 

Hi, I kinda need help from the sifus here. So I tried using a filer to sand off the nubs but after finishing it with 1000 grit and 1500 grit sandpaper, I still couldn't make it as shiny as it was. Here are some samples:


Any ideas on how to remove those scratches? I heard you can use a polishing agent but I don't know whether a car polish is considered one

I found out that there are 3 types, course, fine and finish. Do I need all 3?

Wow, never thought that RG rx78 can look so good.

Hi, I kinda need help from the sifus here. So I tried using a filer to sand off the nubs but after finishing it with 1000 grit and 1500 grit sandpaper, I still couldn't make it as shiny as it was. Here are some samples:


Any ideas on how to remove those scratches? I heard you can use a polishing agent but I don't know whether a car polish is considered one

My experience, coarse and fine is enough if you are going to matte topcoat.

i rmemeber using those to polish nail ones, became shiny also

there's higher grit sandpaper, with the highest #2000
after that use tamiya compound or similar hobby use polishing compound, usually 3 types, coarse, fine, finish
to end up a surface as shiny as a new car, you need to use coarse -> fine -> finish

I advice against using car polishing compound, it may deteriorate the plastic

final advice, in the second photo, you don't need to worry about nub marks, as the area will covered in the torso after finish assembling

Hi, legenderycity I am quite curious, can you state the step you sand the part?
Is it file->1000grit->1200grit?

I file, 1000grit -> 1500 grit -> 2000 grit -> then finally 2500 grit

For me, I would do file, 800grit->1000grit->1200grit->2500grit/used sandpaper->compound.
Try this out, I learnt this from an senior which have 15+ years of experience in plastic model.
You have to slowly increase the grit for sanding, not from after file, with rough surface straight jump to 1000grit, it will only waste your sandpaper.
Cheers

Ok noted. I will try what you suggested. Btw after 1200 grit straight to 2500 grit already?

Finally.. Its done.. 

Finally.. Its done.. 

Hahaha after 1200 actually can apply compound already, most important is earlier step when the surface still rough, you have to slowly increase grit. With flat top coat, it will be fine.
If you want finer touch then end with 1500, 2000, or 2500 grit.
What I did is what I told you earlier file->800->1000->1200->used sandpaper.
Trust me bro, I learnt from ah pek from ICW. No harm to try

Damn I don't have 800 grit sandpaper so I used a 600 grit one instead, but sadly scratch marks still there. Is it because I sand it too hard?

Damn I don't have 800 grit sandpaper so I used a 600 grit one instead, but sadly scratch marks still there. Is it because I sand it too hard?

Ok, i think i will share a little bit with snapfit... something i just learn recently when i started doing my snapfit kits.
One of the main challenge of snapfitted kit is the task of removing nip marks, without leaving any visible leftover mark. This is especially challenging when doing colored parts; especially blue n red, n other darker colors. One can sand under the nip mark is flat, but is during the cutting process, any damage on the plastic will leave a white spot on the plastic which is almost impossible to remove 100%. So be very careful!

Part on the runner.


Cut it from the runner with a side cutter. Remember to leave some extra nip. This is because no matter how sharp your side cutter is, the cutting action somehow will have some force pressing onto the plastic. This will, especially parts with darker color like red n blue n grey, The force might damage the plastic n leave white spot.


Then, use a sharp knife to slowly "slice" the nip, bit by bit. With this, no pressure will be put onto the plastic. When the nip mark is short enough, mebbe 0.5mm, we can start doing sanding.


My personal habit is start with a file. This is sometimes dangerous because file can be very erosive n it sands down plastic very fast. As a result, if not careful, u might just over sand the whole thing n leave some very deep scratch mark onto the plastic. Here, i file it down until it's almost near the part. u can still see the shape of the nip. notice the white or light color around the nip? this is plastic damage n turn white. but no worry, it's only skin deep n can be easily removed by sand paper.


Sand paper sanding. i start with 800, end with 1,200 grit. This is because i will be finishing with flat coat. IF u wanna do gloss coat, at least end with 2,000 grit n above. For curvy surface, i strongly recommend to use those 3M sanding sponge, the one state "microfine".

Now we can still see some scratches.

Next i use Tamiya compound Coarse (Pic below) to compound it. Actually i do not need to do this because my final finishing is flat. This is just to show an example for those who wants to do gloss or semi gloss.

Besides compound, if u think it's expensive (around RM15 one tube), u can also use nail polisher. Use the finest one, those used for last step polishing or they call it "buff" type.

Other than that, u can even use those CD recovery fluid. The liquid u use, when your DVD has fine scratches, to wipe on the CD/DVD. IT works.


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Compared to the pic above, u can see the glossiness of original Bandai plastic. After compound, it's much glossier, something like those HD version.