I suppose cannot expect u to check thru all the previous pages of this thread also.. just that.. seems like every other day someone will ask panel line or top coat first and it's getting quite boring

In any case.. top coat is pretty much to protect ur kit so might as well do panel lining and decalling first and coat last

because, there's the minimum way and the maximum way
what you saw may be the pros or people with lots of patience
they spray a layer of top coat first, then panel line, lastly another layer of top coat

some does this: base paint -> primary colour -> secondary colour -> top coat -> panel line -> top coat -> decals -> topcoat
this is the maximum way

while the minimum way: colour -> panel line -> decals -> topcoat

whichever way is fine, but the main point is all the last step ends with topcoat

IMO, sometimes, it good to experiment with different method to find which is preferable to you. I do decal 1st before panel lining/colour (use marker) because sometime if not careful, the setter/softener liquid can cause smudge to the lining/colour. So I decal 1st, the coat to protect the decal, then only lining/colour.

it depends on your techniques
I guess you applied too much setter/softer hence the lining ink can run
most do lining first because if you applied decals already, trying to rub away excess ink would risk damaging the decals
some uses panel line wash technique, which requires thinner or zippo fluid to wipe away the excess ink, this will damage the decals

I'm not a careful type, so most of the time, will have excess setter/softener because I don't have a steady hand to wipe off the excess liquid. When I tried to do it, I usually accidentally moved the decal... BTW, wiping excess lining off a coated surface is really easy.

this technique

some does this: base paint -> primary colour -> secondary colour -> top coat -> panel line -> top coat -> decals -> topcoat
this is the maximum way

will add on weight? hehehhehehe

Guys, usually how many bottles of paint do you use for an MG? I found myself using 4 clear reds for my Sinanju and others for metallics and inner frames... The guy at the shop told me, actually for an MG; I only require one bottle of clear red?

@kyuen, im doing the sinanju now, any pics of your red paint?
i wasnt thinking of spraying the armor

got, at home. i'll take it later to show you. I've not assembled it yet, but I have the armor painted red already

1 bottle flat red + leveling thinner is enough. 1 or 2 layer is good, bcos the existing plastic is red color.

Bad news guy, Ikea already stop selling detolf. No more in Ikea website and Ikea apps.

kidding right? Should I rush out to buy now?

Last week I checked, no more stock. Now, not even listed in the web...

sry interupt any ongoing conversation, wanna ask the HG bearguy iii(san), got some extra parts look like acguy parts, any idea what is it for?

http://dalong.net/review/hg/bf05/th/s_bf05_20.jpg

original acguy parts?
looks like it

ori acguy parts ma

finally i can post this here


i'm thinking of doing another camo paintjob for a jegan to complete the trio. any suggestions for the colors?

designing and maintaining a brand new mold is expensive. In the case of redesign (beargguy), Bandai will reuse existing molds to create runners that it is base upon (acguy) to cut cost. As such, there will be some excess parts not use in the said model kit.

just think of it as some bonus parts, keep it as future potential customization parts or replacement parts or testing parts or u can just throw it away if u wan.

hi all,

anyone had bought gundam in taipei, taiwan before? which are the recommended gundam shops in taipei? thanks in advance.

This post has been edited by david888: Feb 10 2014, 08:19 PM