Heh I myself here want to get a pair of SVS ultra bookshelfs to complete my LCR as ultras, but looking at the ringgit... Lol ain't happening soon.
Your Home Theater Setup.. v2, Let's share..
Your Home Theater Setup.. v2, Let's share..
|
|
Jun 24 2016, 09:13 PM
Return to original view | Post
#21
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
Heh I myself here want to get a pair of SVS ultra bookshelfs to complete my LCR as ultras, but looking at the ringgit... Lol ain't happening soon.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 25 2016, 03:29 PM
Return to original view | Post
#22
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(saitong09 @ Jun 25 2016, 02:58 PM) Was spent about 10min for a quick test during lunch hour for DZ1, 5 and 7 (pure audio mode on Bluray Live concert). Floorstand sound much better than bookshelf. However, DZ 7 slightly better than DZ 5 but not significant. The sales guy told me because the setup was home theater (speaker set to small and crossover 80Hz) that's why I don't feel the advantage of DZ 7. Is that true what he claimed? I thought when pure audio mode the setup will switch to stereo mode without cross to sub? Lol salesguy idiocy 101 right there. Yes, in pure audio mode, the bass management, room correction and DSP (if used) is ignored. That's the whole point of "pure audio". Logically speaking, pure audio turns off the most of the pre/pro part on a receiver, so how can bass management still be in use? Lol. Anyways, there are many reasons why you don't hear a huge difference between the DZ5 and DZ7. Room size for one is critical to speaker performance, perhaps that room size is just too small that any extra amount of bass the DZ7 can muster is just being muffled on its own. Perhaps there's already enough bass on the DZ5 that anything the DZ7 hasa over it, isn't that significant anymore in that room size. You can certaily still get a sub to work in pure audio mode by manually setting the crossover on the sub itself though. Usually people put it in LFE, that's why they don't hear anything when pure audio is enabled. |
|
|
Jun 26 2016, 02:50 AM
Return to original view | Post
#23
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(saitong09 @ Jun 25 2016, 10:43 PM) Most probably next month Spikes are for use with carpet floor to reduce vibration from the speaker itself. If you're using bare floor, you can replace them with something else. I usually use rubber pads, works like a treat.Btw, what's the purpose of the spike? The spike very sharp, plan to replace with sticky rubber |
|
|
Jun 29 2016, 04:16 PM
Return to original view | Post
#24
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(teop @ Jun 27 2016, 05:37 PM) Got some question for sifu on sub, LFE and crossover. I'm using a Yamaha AVR in 5.1 with tower for LR. 1) If you set your receiver in "Pure Direct", the sub won't be used unless you manually set the crossover on the sub itself because on Yamaha's receivers, engaging pure direct will disable the bass management from the AVR itself.1. If listening to stereo source in stereo mode, will the sub be used? a) since the LFE channel is not active, I assume it won't be used. b) I remember reading somewhere that setting the LR to small will enable the sub, is that true? c) will the crossover affect the LR channel, i.e. sound be removed? 2. If listening to stereo source in music mode, i.e 5 speakers, how is the sub used? a) since there is no LFE in the source, bass below the crossover will redirect (remove) from LR to sub or copied from LR to sub? 3. Watching 5.1 movies, is the sub strictly for LFE channels only or also comes from crossover? a) Again how would having set to small speaker and large speaker have any effect? Logically it should remove sound from crossover point and send it to the sub if the speakers is setup as small. 4. Assuming there is no sub, would the crossover setting still relevant? Sometimes I would not turn on the sub and wonder how all these setting would affect the LR speakers. If I don't turn the sub on, do I need to also set the AVR sub to none (5.0) as well? Thanks. You seem to be mistaken that a crossover point would mean it removes something from your speakers. The meaning of a crossover is basically what it says, a crossover = a bridge in layman terms. All a crossover does is moving the pre-determined frequency set by the user to the sub. If you set it to 80hz, then ANYTHING below that goes to the sub, plain and simple. Of course, if your sub cannot go down to the LFE frequencies (20hz and below), then it will simply distort or have inaudible volume down in those areas. 2) If you bass managed properly in the first place from the AVR, using any "music" DSP or upmixer (PLII, DTS Neo), anything below the crossover point will be sent to the sub. As explained in point no.1, anything below the set xover point will be sent to the sub. It is NOT copied nor is it removed from the L/R channels, it is just being re-directed to the sub. 3) As already explained, ANYTHING that is set below the xover point is sent to the sub. If the movie has 20hz content and your sub is capable of playing down that low, then yes with a crossover above that; the sub will indeed play it. You set the speaker SMALL BECAUSE you are limiting its bass output and sending it all to the sub. There are really only a few tower speakers in this world that can play CLEANLY down to 20hz, with no distortion. SMALL and LARGE has very little to do with the physical size of the speakers. 4) No, if there is no sub then you set your L/R speakers to large and everything else to small. If your center channel is gutsy enough, you can set it to large also. What does this does is the AVR will redirect the bass to the speakers designated as large. Whether it plays the bass frequencies down to its "rated specs" with authority or not is a different matter. If you don't turn on the sub, then simply set the L/R speakers to large from the speaker setup menu. You can also set different "SCENES" for your AVR. So you can have SCENE1 with settings for the sub enabled (with bass management) and you can set SCENE2 with no sub, no bass management. There are a lot of things you can do with your receiver, you just need to read the manual and figure out what does what. QUOTE(Dickong @ Jun 28 2016, 08:50 PM) Which ELAC sub and which SVS sub? While not a single ELAC sub will match any from SVS, the ELACs are considerably cheaper while not being rubbish like the majority of mainstream cheapo subs (you know like the ones from Polk, Pioneer, Dayton and so on). |
|
|
Jun 30 2016, 12:25 PM
Return to original view | Post
#25
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(Dickong @ Jun 29 2016, 08:42 PM) Its closest competitor from SVS is the SB2000. The SB2000 will walk over it in multiple circles before the ELAC knows what is happening. The S12EQ has a very decent volume output, but it lacks finesse. It lacks definition, it can lose control and doesn't go as low as the SB2000's 19hz. That said the S12EQ is a little more "fun" to listen to, due to its slightly more exaggerated mid-bass frequencies hump. The SB2000 in comparison will just sound flat right up to 110hz. |
|
|
Jun 30 2016, 06:14 PM
Return to original view | Post
#26
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(teop @ Jun 30 2016, 04:52 PM) 1) It does seems that you would not get any output from the sub channel for stereo-stereo unless your LR is set to small. Need to reconfirm that by testing again. 1) You won't get any output because most MUSIC does not have notes below 60hz. What music did you test with? I can play Tron's soundtrack in pure direct mode and my sub will indeed be in use once I manually set the crossover on it. That said, I listen to music in "straight" mode or with an upmixer most of the time.3) Out of curiosity, is limiting bass output by setting speakers to small for towers a common method for bass management or simply a hack. Meaning if you have a sub, always set it to small. 4) You can use SCENES for bass management, how do you do that? Is it by selecting different sound mode? (sound program, sur.decode, straight mode and pure direct) I actually did some test and found that you are right. For speakers set to large, crossover have no effect on them but the range of sound from the sub would be different (redirect). For speakers set to small, crossover will limit the range of bass they will be able to produce as well as the range of sound for the sub (remove and redirect). So the crossover effect really depends on whether the speakers are set to small or large. The capabilities to reproduce them is another matter. This effect is most noticeable for movies for the center channel as the sound can change from a man with a deep voice to a kid when setting the crossover from 200Hz to 20Hz 3) Bass management has been a common method since the 90s, it's not a hack, it's just common sense. Why would a 5.25" or 6.5" driver be able to produce bass below 30hz without distorting and wrecking itself? It's simple physics, think about it for a moment. A sub's driver is usually much bigger, at 8", 10", 12" or even the massive ones going up to 18" or 20". Then there's also the issue with trying to drive multiple speakers in "Large" mode. You're asking a lot from the puny amps in receivers these days (yes even so called "flagship" ones). They're designed for dynamic power spikes, not a constant draw at long periods of time. You run into the issue of possibly overheating the receiver, they start to clip and then they would go into OVP. Leave the bass to the sub (which often times come with amps multiple times larger than what receivers have), leave the midrange and high-end to the individual speakers. 4) I'm not talking about modes. I'm talking about the SCENES on the Yamaha receiver. They're just different presets that the user can overide with their own settings, so I'm just suggesting you have different "SCENES" set for different listening conditions. Check the manual, it's all there. Too long to explain the steps here. For the center channel, it really does depend on how it is designed. Not all center channels benefit from setting itself at a lower crossover just so voices can sound "deeper". Because there are certain CCs where then voices can become boomy and muddy, robbing it of detail. Not to mention if there's a panning of effects from any direction, things can sound "weird". Designing a center channel is a lot more complicated than just the L/R bookshelf or tower. Cabinet size being the main concern, driver size being another, then internal crossover can usually be a lot more complex as well depending on the design. Many enthusiasts would use 3 identical speakers for the LCR, be it bookshelf or towers, place them at exactly the same height and at ear height position behind an acoustically transparent screen. I find that many people seem to like their center speakers to sound a bit "warm" simply because the voice would be deeper. It's preference of course, but sometimes when you think logically, what if the actor's voice is just genuinely "thin" sounding in the first place? |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 12 2016, 07:02 PM
Return to original view | Post
#27
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
|
|
|
Jul 12 2016, 08:13 PM
Return to original view | Post
#28
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
^Well explained by jamesleetech
Another site to check out the metrics for projectors is - http://www.projectorcentral.com/projection...culator-pro.cfm |
|
|
Jul 12 2016, 11:13 PM
Return to original view | Post
#29
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(Kelv @ Jul 12 2016, 10:25 PM) Only to an extent. But you will eventually run into balancing between 'good' reflections and 'bad' ones.A good HT room is usually constructed in an asymmetrical measurement. So basically a rectangle room is preferred. Your solutions are few. For one, you can "cut" the square shape room into a rectangle one, but that will mean making the room even smaller than it already is. If you can live with that, then some furniture moving and small renovation will do. The other thing you can do is basically sit "near field". But this defeats the whole purpose of a "Home Theater", especially since you want a projector. |
|
|
Jul 13 2016, 03:36 PM
Return to original view | Post
#30
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
^Don't mind me asking, but having the LS50 so near to the side and backwall... doesn't that bloat the mid-bass a bit too much? More so since you're sitting near field.
|
|
|
Jul 13 2016, 04:40 PM
Return to original view | Post
#31
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(dexth @ Jul 13 2016, 04:14 PM) Yes it does, this is temp setup due to space constrain. Oh I know the LS50 are meant for near field duties. But was just wondering how the mid-bass bloat is like being so close to the wall in relation to where you are sitting.near field is however not a problem, LS50 is meant for that. Good to hear it's temporary though. |
|
|
Jul 14 2016, 12:59 AM
Return to original view | Post
#32
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(jamesleetech @ Jul 13 2016, 09:18 PM) A clean uncluttered look with a great home theatre system that I am sure you have many many hours of HT and HiFi enjoyment. @boldedThat SVS sub is a GODZILLA not only for size, its a giant for bass that can actually create rumbles that closely imitate an earthquake!! I know... because my bro-in-law recently bought a used unit that really can rumble and shake everything in the room! » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « I did not notice any source (media, bluray or DVD) player for your home theatre system. What I can see is that you have a Logitach wireless keyboard and mouse with an Intel I7 computer and a 6TB HDD so I assume you use this computer as the HTPC feed to your system. If I assumed correctly, which software do you use to bitstream bluray videos via HDMI to your Denon AVR? WinDVD Pro, PowerDVD Ultra, TotalMedia Theatre 6 or DVDFab Media Player. I do use genuine purchased TotalMedia Theatre 6 for my Windows 8 pc but unfortunately they have terminated it. When I upgraded to Windows 10 Pro, TotalMedia Theatre 6 is not compatible so I had to purchase DVDFab Media Player. Is that your computer (white and black) placed next to your SVS sub? I was using such HTPC setup previously but I found that the audio and video quality is somehow much better through my Oppo BDP-105D so now I only use my pc to play other videos (4K YouTube, Netflix) on my 27 inch Dell 4K Monitor. Oh.. almost forgot. I do use a separate mini Intel NUC computer specifically to just play DSD64 audio files to my DAC. Since you have the Atmos speakers, I do wish to know your opinion on the overall effects of the speakers placed on top of the front main speakers? Such type of Atmos speakers fires to the ceiling and which reflects the top audio effects downwards. Are the Atmos/DTSX effects as good as you wish? I read many comments and reviews that says the Atmos effects is not good, can create cross-talk interference with other speakers and the effects can sound muddy. The good thing of placing on top of the main speakers is obviously no additional messy installation and not many people wants to touch a ceiling that already looks good and clean. Many times its also not possible to install Atmos ceiling speaker which directly fires downwards. I intend to add a pair of Atmos speakers (ELAC A4) which can be used to place on top of the main speakers but I intend to hang it on my ceiling pointing the drivers directly downwards but this require more work to install them. Errr... for video I can agree, because there are some subjective calls there in regards to image scaling (both up and down) as well as post processing. I personally use MadVR at the very max settings (requires a decent GPU indeed) and telling the difference between it and a hardware scaler is very difficult. Pretty much have to take a before and after photo to compare. But audio? How would it sound better from the Oppo when it's just going to be bitstreamed to the receiver anyways? The audio wouldn't change at all, unless you're using the analog out portion of the 105D. But then that would be an entirely different discussion. This post has been edited by SSJBen: Jul 14 2016, 01:00 AM |
|
|
Jul 14 2016, 05:04 PM
Return to original view | Post
#33
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(dexth @ Jul 14 2016, 09:40 AM) What makes you said so? Did you experience it yourself? My personal 2 cents is:It really depends on a lot of factors such as ceiling height, shape, type, the module angle vs seating position, etc. it's not ideal but its definitely not gimmick. I have experiment using regular speaker, the effect is not good. - Having tried all 3 Atmos/DTSX configurations of upfiring speakers, height presence speakers and in-ceiling speakers, my consensus is that upfiring speakers really only can work in a completely flat, reflective and low ceiling. Even then, the height effects will really only have ONE sweetspot, anyone off axis hears almost nothing. - My config is being an all-rounder, having height presence speakers mounted as close to the ceiling as possible and tilted towards the MLP. With this I get almost as good of height effects as in-ceiling downward firing speakers. The only major difference is that the in-ceiling speakers covers an even wider space of listening positions. This method is also much easier and cheaper to implement and would be the only method I can suggest if one cannot do in-ceiling/on-ceiling speakers. But well, everyone has their own subjective opinions. If one likes upfiring speakers, then I guess... more power to them. If it works for them then that's all that matters at the end of the day. |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 14 2016, 05:41 PM
Return to original view | Post
#34
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(dexth @ Jul 14 2016, 05:35 PM) Yes, I have seen SVS recommend this method. Are you still using the Atmos speaker for the height mounted? I'd like to test it this method one day. Actually Yamaha started the height presence speakers thing looooooong before Dolby or DTS even fought with each other about what height channels should and should not be.I'm using the Prime satellites as height presence speakers for Atmos and DTSX duties. Didn't even take long to install, like an hour+ including cleaning up. |
|
|
Jul 15 2016, 12:45 AM
Return to original view | Post
#35
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(jamesleetech @ Jul 14 2016, 06:33 PM) I seem to have created some pollution here and I want to clear the air first before I continue. Alright, you have fair points but let's break it down.It is a FACT that the audio sent out by both the Oppo and HTPC is bitstream which is raw and untouched without any processing. All things being equal, when the same receiving AV amp processed the bitstream audio, the quality WILL always be exactly the same regardless of whether we use HTPC, Oppo 105D, Popcornhour, Dune Max, ACRyan or any media player. YES, I totally agree with your statement about this and do not dispute it. With that being said, I shall continue with my own personal opinion about the bitstream audio. Please regard what I say after this as my fairy tale story which are based on nonsense so you will be right if you disagree with me... I will not make any rebuttals. Just continue to read and give it some thought. [attachmentid=7089577] Look at my drawn diagram above. As I mentioned earlier, when the AV Amp received the Bitstream Audio, it will be the same when "all things being equal". Unfortunately it is not equal in my own assessment after various tests done by me. Don't misunderstand me... I don't refute anything about the Bitstream Audio itself. Its about the "pollution" affecting the delivery of the same Bitstream Audio before it reaches the AV Amp to be processed. There will always be the neverending discussions about the reasons for using an expensive HDMI Version 2.0 cable (RM 200++) when a cheapo one selling at RM 50 can do the job equally well because the digital signal will still be the same in 0's and 1's. I belong to the "cheapo" HDMI camp previously because I do agree that its a fact that the digital audio and video will not change no matter what cable we used except for the loss of signal when extremely long HDMI cable is used. One day, a friend of mine brought an HDMI 2.0 cable costing around RM 380 (2 metres) for me to test and compare with my no brand cheapo RM 55 one. I was a disbeliever but I was caught totally surprised when the audio and video quality did actually improve based on my own observation. I was wondering... what the hell is going on? Then I was told that a good quality HDMI cable with proper electromagnetic shielding and gold-plated contact with silver strand in the cable can "ease" and "speed up" the transfer of the signal to the receiving amp with less pollution, less resistance and interference. Its just like water (bitstream audio/video) flowing through 2 pipes where one is a clean pipe and the other is a dirty pipe... the water is the same but its quality drops when the delivery has problems. Ok... lets return to the HTPC versus the Oppo player. The computer is notorious for ground loop noise which are generated from various internal parts which can possibly pollute bitstream audio before it is sent out. PC Bluray drives can be very noisy without any effort done to dampen its internal mechanism and its build quality just cannot be compared to the drive in a good quality player such as the Oppo, Marantz, Primare. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « About 1 to 2 years ago, I tested using a bluray disc on these 4 different "players" using my previous Denon 4520 AV Receiver (sold recently)... 1) My Oppo BDP-105D media player. 2) My Intel NUC i5 mini PC. 3) My MSI 17 inch i7 Notebook. 4) My Desktop i7 PC with 3 bluray drives. ... where the result was (1) has the best audio and (4) is the worst. Eventhough my Desktop PC is water cooled, it can be quite noisy with its 5 large internal casing fans and an NVidia graphics card that has 2 fans. Somehow I believe that my Desktop PC should have "polluted" the audio from the time that its read from the disc, goes to the PC RAM memory, travels along the motherboard to the graphics card and then out to the HDMI cable. Probably the path that the audio travels is more complicated when compared to the path used by the Oppo player. I believe why the Intel NUC is the second best is because there is no moving parts inside with M2 SSD harddisk and the power supply is external. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « I even used a low noise power supply unit from Jay's Audio to power my harddisk dock to reduce the current noise affecting the reading of the data in the harddisk!! Very small improvement but an improvement nonetheless. I also played DSD audio from my Intel NUC mini PC to my DAC and found out that the sound quality from a SSD harddisk is slightly better than a 3.5 inch harddisk connected the same USB harddisk dock! » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « However, the audio from playing an actual bluray disc is better than from any harddisk. The bluray concert sounds much more lively and detailed. And ALL using the same Bitstream Audio output! Anyone can call me stupid, call me crazy, say that I am talking rubbish and what I can reply is... I deserve the criticisms! Hehehe... no problem. Video and Audio is both objective and subjective so its up to each person to choose what he/she thinks provides the best quality for the money spent. If anyone says that HTPC video quality with MadVR is much better than Oppo BDP-105D, then you are right not to buy Oppo. If anyone says Oppo is better, then that is also right too. Sorry for my extremely long reply. 1) Since you already agree that for long HDMI cable runs, the more expensive and (let's assume) better built cable will indeed be better than a cheaply (and again let's assume) made one. But on topic of short lengths (since you brought up 2m, let's stick with that), the only difference between a RM200+ HDMI 2.0 cable and a RM50 HDMI 2.0 cable is that the more expensive is more likely to be built towards the HDMI 2.0 specification. Did you know that there are thousands of HDMI 1.3b and HDMI 1.4 posing as HDMI 2.0 cables? It's possible that your cheap RM50 HDMI 2.0 cable is really only a 1.3b or 1.4 spec. It's even possible that these cables aren't even providing the full bandwidth in their 1.3b/1.4 form in the first place. Silver btw, does not "improve" conductance. In fact, in theory, it acts as an impedance. 2) Agreed, PCs are generally a very "noisy" environment internally. But what if I told you that you could normalize the voltage and ripple spikes of your components? Ever thought that if you disabled the so dumb "power boost" feature on your GPU by forcing a constant normalize voltage load with a BIOS mod can actually you know, bring down the "noise"? Ever thought that if you adjust the PLL on your CPU that you could actually not force it to jump and down in power loads every single a time a tab on chrome is opened? Ground looping is caused by a poorly filtered power supply, causing jitters on all voltage rails not just the main 12v. The Cooler Master V1000 power supply you are using is a Seasonic K3 underneath, it's generally a good PSU but it really only has a decent at best filter. 3) Yup, absolutely agreed that PC blu-ray drives are actually of low quality. Worse still, they have a tendancy to scratch discs (I'm looking at you LG). 4) Your PC is noisy because you are using a Corsair CLC. CLCs are notorious for noisy pumps due to how inefficient they are. Silent WPC builds use vario D5 pumps and you can have as much as 2, you still won't hear them unless you plant your ear up against it. 5) Just an example; I have 3 copies of Mad Max Fury Road in remux and .iso form, on the NAS, local HDD (Hitachi NAS) on the PC and just for fun on an Intel 730 SSD. I cannot for the life of me, tell a hint of a difference playing them from all 3 locations. So I'm intrigued when you said playing content from different locations could result in difference of quality. So I'll just agree to disagree on this one, not much I can further say about this based on my own knowledge on how data streams work. 6) I will borrow an Oppo 105D (I never had one, only a 103D briefly) this or next weekend to test our your experiment. In an unoptimized environment, perhaps there are some truths to audio being "polluted" when being sent from one end to the other. But data is maths, while water is an organic matter. You can calculate data down to it's single bit, you can't calculate water down to a speck. Thanks for sharing your experience and experiement though. It's an interesting one and at the end of the day, since everything is working nicer for you with an Oppo player in regards to audio, then yeah that's the only thing that matters. |
|
|
Jul 15 2016, 01:09 PM
Return to original view | Post
#36
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(dexth @ Jul 15 2016, 08:45 AM) Just curious if you have your HTPC audio out to receiver set to at least 24bit 48000hz? Using Nvidia HDMI out for bitstream, it has a tendency to revert to 16bit and the SQ difference is pretty large. Again, you are bitstreaming so it doesn't matter if the bit rate is set to 16 bit. Besides, movie soundtracks are only in 16 bit in the first place, even if setting to 24 bit all you are effectively doing is padding everything with 0s. It doesn't degrade audio nor does it improve it. Besides, you don't want to use exclusive mode for your media apps anyway. So whatever audio bitrate that goes into Windows does not matter. It matters if it's a PCM track however. It matters if you use wasapi too. It also matters if you start games up in exclusive mode (full screen, no borders). BTW to lock windows from always defaulting back to 16/44100, just set your default audio device to the Nvidia hdmi out. Always turn off your PC with the default audio being the hdmi device and it'll stick with whatever setting you have. |
|
|
Jul 15 2016, 01:10 PM
Return to original view | Post
#37
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
|
|
|
Jul 15 2016, 04:26 PM
Return to original view | Post
#38
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(ktek @ Jul 15 2016, 01:28 PM) You know the funny thing is, microidiots actually had a very decent audio stack with Win XP? But they JUST have to decide to destroy everything with Vista, 7 and partly 8. 8.1 improved the audio stack in windows a little bit, 10 is more or less what 8.1 did but more streamlined but still isn't as robust as WinXP was.And yes, the original fat PS3 that was launched (60GB and 20GB models) actually had decent audio playback with SACD support. |
|
|
Jul 15 2016, 05:39 PM
Return to original view | Post
#39
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
QUOTE(ktek @ Jul 15 2016, 05:12 PM) No, not just that. It's how Windows generally deal with audio.https://blog.szynalski.com/2009/11/17/an-au...ws-vista-and-7/ https://channel9.msdn.com/shows/Going+Deep/...-Stack-and-API/ They're all kind of old now, but the tldr is; Vista and 7 removed anything that can be manual to be automatic, because microsoft knows what's best for you and your kids. |
|
|
Jul 16 2016, 08:23 PM
Return to original view | Post
#40
|
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
Senior Member
4,522 posts Joined: Apr 2006 |
Spent the whole day with a DDRC-24 from minidsp. DIRAC is seriously, seriously awesome but I think I've only just scratched the surface of what it can really do.
The dual SB2000s in my bedroom are sounding so cohesive now, it's till the point where I *think* I can't even improve it anymore other than moving the couch to a different sitting position (which I absolutely can't). I', very anal about in-room response, so that says something. |
| Change to: | 0.1178sec
0.32
7 queries
GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 2nd December 2025 - 05:46 AM |