Pertamax!

This post has been edited by Nitrous: Dec 12 2013, 01:41 PM

Personally, I would not compromise on anything that disrupts my ability to brake in time, knowing that a lot of drivers on Malaysian roads tend to swerve without signal. Just had an incident in the morning where a Citra swerved into my lane without looking, only after I honk, he then puts on his signal. As usual, ABS kicked in during hard braking...

It can definitely do with more power

It has been cancelled unfortunately...

Time for Hondata + GE8 Cams... so that you can get the High-low VTEC valves. Make sure you change the intake manifold to the GE8 one as well and use Hondata to tune it together, as apparently it can help with a torque dip at about 3000rpm when the high cams switch over.

I believe Naka7a is having a pre-FL CRZ.... pls correct me if I am wrong. But you are correct, the FL CRZ is using the hi-low cams already, so no change in FL CRZ. Only pre-FL CRZ have this problem.

Stiff ring is good, car feels more taut during cornering and responds better. However, note 2 things over the stiff rings, first it may void warranty for your subframe chassis, and potentially the whole car. Secondly, the installation have to be done precisely (using a torque wrench, not by mechanic's feel) and have to be re-tighten again later roughly 2-3 weeks after installation. Make sure installation is done professionally no matter where you go to...

I have never used LCP on the Honda engine, but did use one previously on my Nissan. I refused to use LCP on the LEA engine as there is no internal balancer for the engine (there is internal balancing for the Nissan), hence no feedback over the LCP. But from my Nissan's feel, it definitely liberates more power and torque as the LCP is much lighter than the normal crank pulley. Just make sure you do not undersize the pulley if you intend to change it, and make sure there is a dampener on the LCP when you install (excessive vibration on the crank can potentially be catastrophic).

Cheers...

No idea man.... as mentioned, i don't intend to install it.

Have you checked the bulb, has it blown?
I do not think foglamp itself is not a wear and tear item, only the bulb is wear and tear. Even the wiring is not a wear and tear item. The SC is trying to make a fool of you, if they say foglamp is a wear and tear item. Argue with them, or go to other SC to fix...

Before you drive off in the morning, check if the disc rotors are rusted (they rust easily). That is usually the problem with the brakes squeak and will go away after driving a while.
If brakes are nice and clean, go for a brake service (take out pads, and sand them down a bit), and make sure no brackets etc are touching the disc rotors. My stock brakes never squeak before, unless I trash the brakes... but will still return to normal (no sound) once the heat dissipates.
Hope this helps...!

Go get it man... just make sure someone reputable does it for you, if you want to know of a good mechanic for the CRZ supercharger, you can PM me.
At this moment, my pockets are not as deep yet, so I had to hold off further mods, so no supercharger for me. Its great that there is no alternator in the CRZ, the supercharger can be mounted on that location with ease.
Only problem with revs is that people think you are struggling to pick up speed... with exhaust bellowing loudly. Oh well... you just can't please everyone.
Nope I didn't, I had it installed in my N16 Nissan previously, and eventhough the engine have an internal balancer shaft, I can feel that the engine is taking a strain after using it for a few years. I sold off the car before any further damage was done. Since the CRZ engine has no balancer shaft, I decided not to put it in... it is easier and safer to do NA tune or supercharger.

Not a very good news wor.... CRZ will be a dying breed.

Actually, they can argue with almost any mods you do to the car, for example bigger rims means more stress to the driveshaft and the brakes too, and will affect the gearbox and drivetrain.

If you are worried about warranties, please keep the car stock. If you want to mod, go all out as long as your purse permits. Happy modding guys!

That is correct. Injectors are changed only if they are faulty, or completely blocked/jam. To clean the injectors, a bottle of Redline injector cleaners can do the trick, but usually done when mileage is high, such as 40k km or more.
My old car, i do it once every 80k km.... it ran perfectly until i sold it at 220k km, never had to once change the injectors.

efisherman, you might want to re-check again with that SC that you have done that swap, on the reason why they did the injector change. Cheers...!

I potong my ECU wiring harness within 3 months of getting my car...

This post has been edited by Nitrous: Jan 22 2014, 03:31 PM

Nope, not into those stuff.
I spliced the Pivot Idle-Stop Canceller into the ECU harness, hence potong already

Battery overheating from constant discharge and charging, so the blower is on extra high speed mode. The blower is located near the battery at the luggage compartment, and pulls the air from the vent holes located beside the passenger seat.
It should stop once the battery cools down....

Actually, I find that BHP petrol gives me better mileage compared to other cars, and this is evident in both of my cars, a Suzuki SX4 and the CRZ...

Comfort will not be good once u go change the springs, especially lowering ones since the spring and absorber travel will be shorter. There are no "comfort" lowering springs available anywhere as it would cause the car to bottom-out during driving. If you are concerned about comfort, keep it stock, it is the best compromise at this moment.
Cheers...

The spoiler looks like it came from the Vary Valiant CRZ bodykit, but the sides are not....
http://www.vary.co.jp/valiant/crz.html

Its a very personal question, it all depends on individual. If you can live with manual on a day to day basis, manual is definitely a better choice IMHO, as the manual gearbox for the CRZ is as slick as it can get, and has a great feel to it. However if you are stuck in a jam most of the time, manual gearbox can be frustrating to live with, and the auto can be a left leg saver....
The other item to consider if you are planning for mods, especially on power mods, as most aftermarket stuff are made for manual CRZ. Very limited amount of mods are made for auto CRZ, and some are not even available for auto box (such as the Idle-Stop Canceller). If you are going for mods, CRZ manual cars are the best and can cope better with more power and high torque from the engine (forced induction mods). If you are going this path, it is either you import the manual CRZ via Honda Malaysia (gonna be very expensive), or get a used ZF1 manual CRZ which can be bought at a good bargain now.
Hope this helps!