fellas, for the Alza facelift, do you observe that the air cond water dripping on the steering rack? in other word, the drain hose wasn't extended to get the air cond condensate to drip on other place than the steering rack. I just took the new car for my dad and found out this. I'm kinda concern on the long term effect on the water dripping and the rusting. I'll go to feedback to SC during my 1st service and see what they says. The car is just 3 days on the road, so far everything OK albeit i heard some ticking noise intermittent, too rare to happen that i able to nail it down.

the EWP policy will spell out what is covered and what's not, with the track record of perodua parts quality, i believe EWP wasn't anything that is worthy to buy. But it's useful on proton cars.

that's right bro, during the delivery, the 1st thing i check was the aircond host. It's not extended, and the condensate was dripping right on the steering rack! No plastic piece observed (i didn't pay really much attention to that, apparently it look like a painted surface, it should be smooth and shiny if there's any transparent plastic there)

I'll bring this issue to them when i send the car for 1st service.

I have a 7 yrs myvi that have the condensate dripping to the steering rack, lucky enough, nothing happened. Last time when i doing aircond service, the mechanic help to escape the condensate by slightly adjust the water dripping position.

the pairing between gearbox & engine is important, the engine tuning and the gear ratio tuning is the determine factor. good engine tuning + good gearbox ratio = good performance; good engine tuning + sucks gear ratio = imperfection. Nothing is perfect and it always ties back to what you desired (torque? top speed? FC?)

i wonder perodua will treat their customer that nice. my bet will be the plugs are ordinary ones, iridium will be those that you need to fork out money to get from them. yea, iridium plug able to last "up to" 100k km, my myvi has it, running for more than 100k km (probably clocking 110k km since the plug installed), still going well, no misfiring, no knocking, no nothing, still doing a healthy 12.5 - 13km/l FC (1st batch manual).

once in a while high speed should be good as it facilitate the run in and bedding in of friction surfaces. Ofcoz you don't maintain it for long period.

fellas, anyone of you have the idea of the gearbox model for alza? i just done my 1st service and having chit chat with the P2 mechanics during service, they told me that the gearbox was different from the pre FL alza.

i see... so the old gearbox is bigger in size, or the new ones? about the gear ratio, probably they tweak the 1,2,3 gear ratio (maybe), as the rpm for 100km/h drive was still in the region of 2.5-3k rpm, which i presume it's still the old 2750rpm. Anyway, it's do look different from the myvi gearbox. If i not mistaken, old alza use the same gearbox as myvi's.

nothing much can complain on my alza, the noise level on 110km/h is bearable for me. can't expect much when you pay that kind of pricing. i haven't sit in a vios that drives 110km/h before but my gut feel is vios could be comparatively less noisy but still it's not the class (of low cabin noise) of altis or camry, it's all down to the amount of $ you pay mate.

agree to your statement bro. I tried my alza up to 140kph, though noisy (not as much as the roaring of Saga BLM) but the noise level is bearable for me. the car is design for normal use, the design and it's shape already told us.



yep, torque is meant for pickup (to bring the mass up to speed), i drove my alza into the region of 2.8 and 3.3k rpm, yep, it feels comparatively noisy when the rpm venture into this range, but it's still bearable. A bit OOT, If you do some reference to myvi 1.5 torque curve, i bet you will not go into any rpm between 3k-4k region, the torque is relatively flat during this region, i.e rpm goes up, torque doesn't go up. the tuning for p2 engine are quite emphasis on low - mid torque, as the expense of high speed output. Proton goes different way (compare to P2).

[quote=alexei,Jun 11 2014, 06:31 PM]
singk

My 2 cents.

agree to your statement bro, the iDSI engine achieves max torque at lower rpm by the dual spark plug and the swirl combustion chamber, higher compression ratio of 10.8:1 construction, while 3SZ-VE play around with valve timing, 16v dohc construction, in 16v engine, the powerband will far from perfect if you compare to the iDSi engine design (8 valves) due to the lower volumetric efficiency in low-mid rpm range. What Daihatsu did is, tweak the intake manifold and make it good performer in low-mid range at the expense of high rpm output (compare myvi 1.3 with iAFM 1.3 then you know the difference). I tried to look at the torque for both engine, relatively same torque level when both engine achieve max HP i.e around 120Nm hence both engine are quite well tuned (for a mass pro engine).

What i'm trying to bring out is "trying" (not prohibits) to avoid to step into the region of 3k-4k rpm as the torque is relatively flat at this region before it ram up to max on 4400rpm, hence the pick up wasn't that intense during this rpm range, rpm up, pick up no up = wasting fuel. You can see the pic.

P.S: maybe the torque curve a bit different on alza due to the presence of intake resonator while myvi doesn't has it.

yep, you got linear acceleration and due to the lack of torque growth (compare to lower rpm region that exhibits torque & HP growth), you feel less oomph.



i can say that is correct, driving at top gear @3k rpm yields you 110-120km/h, you go faster, the air resistance grows significantly i.e the air is pulling you back further, without additional torque, your engine need to work harder.
My own personal opinion is drive around 3k rpm will be sweet for fuel economy sake. Better still you drive around 80-90km/h, i found that most cars did pretty good FC during this speed range (like my myvi and my pop's Saga BLM)
If you are racing kaki, think no further, step your leg hard enough, let the engine roar, squeeze out higher torque and hp and fulfill your needs.

well, it's expected. it's good as it "helps" the automotive industries (coz you need to change parts or car when it worn off)

try maintain 2k rpm drive at top gear, even lagi sedap, more fuel saving, but you will feel sien because you will feel like you drive like an old man.

What's ur driving condition? Full city drive? If it's full city drive, then is allright. I'm getting about 8l/100km for mix driving cycle. Could be better if I drive more frugal.

Should be air cond condensate. Or exhaust vapor when you idle for too long.

Try reset your FC meter and observe the FC. Yea, try train the ECU to suit your driving style, I guess the ECU able to learn up ur style really fast, I drove my girlfriend's myvi just for a day, and tomorrow I'm getting her complain of her throttle feeling awkward,try drive more than 70 if you have chance, I observe that the gear will usually stays at 3rd gear if you go around or lower than 65kph.

perodua engine is design for low octane rating, RON 90 if i not mistaken. So 95 or 97, it shouldn't be any difference. I tried shell RON97 once, and the was the only 1 time i tried RON97, FC remains the same.

I do know some engine e.g Mazda skyactiv, volkswagen, insight hybrid does feel the difference as the engine is tuned to suit to RON95, hence giving it a RON97 should brings out the "hidden potential"of the engine by a bit.

is logical to have that number after reset, it takes some distance to get a more precise reading, i bet the number will increase if you trapped in jam especially, i was driving back from PG - Ipoh last week and i reset the FC meter while i'm cruising, guess what? 4.5L/100km! i knew it's bluffing for sure. In the end, when i reach Ipoh, the FC looks really good, 6.5L/100km, after 2 days of city drive, the 6.5 number wasn't there anymore, it goes up to 7.8 instead.

i went to service and have a chit chat with perodua techician, the alza FL is getting new gearbox (as we all knew it), and (he told me) the new gearbox is taking in more ATF, 2.9L(?), in the owner's manual, it states 2.2L, so i dunno which is correct. Anyhow, the dipstick reading shows the fluid level is OK (albeit is shifted to P and engine shut, but it should be representable as the car just put to a stop for like 7 minutes). Perhaps any sifu who is familiar with this new gearbox able to shed some light on this? Thanks.