Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Inverter 1.0HP also not bad. Can auto left right and up down even for 1 hp.
Annual consumption of the SRK10YSL is only 12xxkWh besting 14xxkWh of MSY-GJ10VA

LOL, though I love the design I doubt it will make it to our shores. It's both cooling and heating. The 7th generation is on R32 (difluoromethane). Australia has allowed for its usage now that the gas tank regulators conformant to safety when handling them is in the market. R410a is 50% R32 and 50% which acts as a flame retardant.

You should take a photo of the NEA warning on R600 filled fridges and let the users in the forum know what a danger that gas poses.

Expand your choice from the above two to also include MHI SRK10YSL. It's EER is higher than MSY-GJ10VA. Also for a 1HP, you get auto left right in addition to up down plus impregnated tourmaline (Far Infra-red for negative ionizing fucntion) on the blowers meaning that the room get bathed in -ve ions 24 hours regardless whether AC is operating or not. Plus self clean.

Not that far off from MEC 1hp inverter. See jintex electronics website if you're in Klang Valley

Heads up: was informed by contractor friend whose friend in the trade shared something interesting about newer installations of AC. Some AC in particular require 4 wires over the traditional 3. The additional wire is an extra neutral from DB box to compressor.

Samsung AR triangle series is one prime example. If the fourth wire is not present, they start and after 5 minutes the following error flashes across the led display "E 01".

So for new renovation or if hacking out and fitting in new pipes, put in 4 wires. You never know when it's going to come in handy.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 29 2014, 11:38 AM

It all depends on brand and model. The older AC thread here way back in 2012 on pg 109 and pg 110 where Kelv and skng03 also talks about this. At least 4 wire some 5 for inverters. 3 core for LNE. Extra 1-2 wires perhaps for interconnect and advanced signaling.

If there's no need for it, all's hunky dorry. The problem is when it's required like the situation I was told about. The point is about future proofing. Most times it's not needed except when that odd situation arises because of a peculiar brand and model. In this case, it was for Samsung 1 and 1.5 HP inverter AR[09/12]HVSDBWKN. Both utilize 4 core wiring at the least which was a bit unusual as most other R410a inverters are only 3 core of the same HP.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Sep 29 2014, 06:11 PM

kimsim, when your hdb install ac, pls share how many core wiring needed for your model and system. it would be helpful for all of us to plan next time to accomodate and also being made aware of the wiring requirements. thks.

I can only comment on their inverter range.

I have used 1.0hp inverter with plasmacluster in my old place for kids room. Compressor still ok after 4 years.
I now use 2.0hp and 2.5hp inverter. The 2.0hp has comparatively lighter outdoor compressor (35kg) since it's made of Aluminium. Cooling wise ok and can track current wattage (in n.n kW) when cooling for both 2.0/2.5hp.

Positive points
a. Plasmacluster function in an AC
b. Gentle Cool (Coanda effect) mode - pushes air upwards 10-15 degrees above horizontal. Most competitors upward slat mode rarely go less than 10 degrees BELOW the horizontal which still makes the occupant feels to cold.
c. Clean mode - very low maintenance in terms of cleaning apart from filter. It dries the internal blower and drainage area preventing mould built-up in that area. Since day 1, my AC technician says it didn't need a chemical wash every time he comes for maintenance as I always use this mode after a night of sleep.
d. Price - it's slightly cheaper than the rest of the competitor's inverter pack.
e. Low wattage mode - 1.5/2.0/2.5hp has 2 step low wattage modes and 1.0hp has 1 step. Basically eco-mode.
f. Sleep mode - there's no button but it's activated when Off timer is set. Alternates on-off for comfortable cooling while sleeping. Rarely use since the longest sleeping occupant is my 1yo. But it works like other AC brand sleep modes.

Points a and b combined provides clean air envelope of cool without adversely affecting elderly and children too much. The 1.0hp I have used with great effect that combined with 1-2 speed ceiling fan and AC set to 28 degree Celsius on AUTO fan setting. This provides a comfortable cool envelope that is not too drying to the skin and more importantly the lungs -- too dry a room causes the lung to dehydrate faster and leads to asthma in a short period if not remediated esp for very small children and elderly adults.

In the dining area, Gentle Cool pushes air 10-15 degree above the horizontal so that the dishes don't go cold that fast, yet the occupants is cooled by the envelope.

There are other innovations which biomimics (adapts features from the animal or plant kingdom) esp seagull and dragonfly for which Sharp won awards for esp in terms of indoor air circulation efficiency and lower outdoor compressor RPM to achieve the same cooling range etc. Our mileage varies on that but to me the main five points above esp the first three is a win for me.

Negative points
a. Not as quiet - 2.0/2.5 about 30db or in that range when quiet but since I did not intend it for bedroom use I find it ok. 1.0hp is about 27dB when quiet or temp reach pre-set range and compressor cuts off. OK for my kids since street noise is higher so no diff.
b. 1.0-2.5hp inverter units have no left-right auto-swing. 1.0-1.5hp expected not to have but nowadays MHI and Samsung at the least differentiate from other 1.0hp by having left-right auto-swing in addition to up-down auto-swing. The surprise was to see that even 2.0 and 2.5hp doesn't have this feature. Not a deterrence to my usage as cooling zone spread is fixed.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 1 2014, 10:40 AM

Overall in 2010, Sharp tops my choice due to R410a class refrigerant topping even Daikin's R22 inverter. More crucially is its plasmacluster function. Trying forking out money to buy an inverter AC and a separate Plasmacluster air purifier granted that the latter can be placed any where. How to keep cool at night without falling sick at the same time? Simply value for money.

In 2014, for RM100-350 more depending on model and where to buy, MHI and Samsung is tempting due to their lower annual consumption. However, a new equation has come into play. Some building materials can dehumidify a room if one is willing to pay a small price but given its plus on pleasing aesthetics as well as functionality it affords. The AC becomes less of a necessity when even with a fan is cooling enough except during the hot and humid months. That's besides the point but nonetheless, keeping a room cool has to consider the whole building envelope.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 1 2014, 05:40 PM

There's about 6-8 possible swing configuration besides 3D auto. You can choose the desired one. Thanks for the feedback.

could be installation. My 3d autoswing no such vibration.

This is a rather large dwelling assuming it could be a super link, semi or bungalow.
Helpful questions:
1. Where are each room facing compass wise? Sun orientation influence on how much heat the building absorbs and re-releases into the night.
2. Is the house intermediate, end-lot or corner? Intermediate means got neighbour's house left and right to insulate from sun. Corner and endlot if west facing gonna have problem cooling without upsizing or shading technique.
3. How high is ceiling downstairs and what is the height after dropping plaster 3" below beam? If still 10' or higher can consider ceiling cassette. Otherwise don't.
4. What material is the roof using? Is it insulated with alu foil membrane sheet or rock wool battens (Coolbatts)? If got, then AC runs cooler upstairs. Otherwise may need to upsize.

Inverter saves in the long run at 50% running cost if you're ok with initial extra 50% cost over non-inverter. Assuming ceiling height to be 10ft upstairs and downstairs.

Assuming no insulation on roof top, heat load factor will be 70. Downstairs will be hlf=60.
1. Living room + dining room = 1000 * 60 = 60000BTU implies 3x2hp AC or 2x3hp AC
2. Family room upstairs = 600 * 70 = 42000 BTU = 2x2.5hp AC
3. Same as Family room
4. Bedroom 1 = 270 x 70 = 18900 BTU = 1x2.0hp or 1x2.5hp (2.0hp some models up to 18000BTU)
5. Bedroom 2 = 225 x 70 = 15750 BTU = 1x2.0hp (1.5hp insufficient as it's up to 13000BTU)

If roof has insulation, can bring hlf down to 60 and recalculate. Then downstairs can reduce hlf to 55. If corner, then all corner rooms on W and SW side needs to add 5 to hlf because of extensive baking by sun throughout the day.

Drilling the wall to hang the compressor mounting brackets should be ok. But hacking hole not easy to do on weekend. I would complain too but that's me.

I suggest separate cooling for dining and kitchen. High ceiling good to use suspended cassette unless you want to preserve characteristics of ceiling ie left untouched cos if plaster it would be lowered to lowest acceptable height. Hence the suggestion to separate otherwise it would be a waste not to use high ceiling just because plasterinzing it low to cover AC ducting and drain pipe. Alternatively use a wall split model for dining which allows retaining high ceiling feature.

Kitchen AC would be good to use Sharp with Plasmacluster. That helps traps oil and cooking fumes. Fotile has a hood which has this feature also. And an external filter like how kimsim uses it from Daiso prevents the filter from getting dirty so fast. Another AC would be Hitachi with UV fresh and stainless steel filter.

Info of pricing can get from forum. On compressor placement above or below blower, it doesn't matter if AC ledge is within 10ft. Most cases like this compressor normally below blower.

In some homes like semi D or bungalow, there are owners who insist uniform height of compressor for all floors for ease of maintenance. So some AC depending on which floor can be above and some below blower. Either way, each manufacturer's model has a maximum vertical height difference/limit. Then there are some like low rise private condo with no AC ledge at all. Compressor either on roof top or above where cars are parked. In this case, an AC compressor max vertical height difference/limit comes into play. Not common but so that you know why certain AC (esp 1hp) not cold and konk very fast vs others in this kind of situation. If more than 10ft height difference, it might need those Emerson Alco EK Filter drier.

However for the blower, it is more important is that drainage pipe must be placed lower than AC refrigerant pipes. This is a not-so common installation defect but it happens.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 13 2014, 11:23 AM

Yes split vs window type. The former has blower and compressor split whereas the latter is interlinked. I thought so too that you might still like the high ceiling. The volume above the ceiling needs not be cooled. What's more important is the air surrounding the room up to 8-9ft. That's where most occupants are and it's key that they feel the cooling.

If one AC place it on one side of the wall where it faces the kitchen. Here's where long throw blowers like Mitsubishi (Electric and Heavy Industries) and Samsung really comes to play. The long throw mode can reach the kitchen so long as the circulation path is not obstructed. Normally, installer would place it at 8-9ft high.

If two dedicated AC normally because room orientation and placement limitation, Sharp gull wing or Samsung triangle can consider. But Samsung needs 4 core wires vs the rest that needs 3.

Normally high humidity is not an issue if the temperature is cool like 27 degrees. Lower temp means wetter and most likely it beget mists as dew point is reached. 80-85% at 26-27 degrees, then it's pleasantly ok. But in a room that's already baking hot and it never goes down below 29 degrees is not healthy also. Have to consider one with the other.

Mostly, the surrounding environs come into play. Brick walls and glazed floor tiles normally has that coating that keeps moisture intrusion low or negligible. The excess humidity builds up and as temperature rises it feels very "kook". If the floor is marble (broken or tiled) and the wall uses venetian plaster (similar composition as Ipoh marble) then the excess moisture is wicked away. Even in hot afternoon outside, the house whose floor is marble and walls are using venetian plaster it will be surprisingly comfortable even at 30 degrees and 75% humidity.

To put it into context, humidity would not be an issue if we are surrounded with lots of overgrowth (trees) eg a house like the one in Sekeping Serendah. But in a concrete jungle, it all depends on what the dwelling type, floor and wall material's response to excess moisture and the surrounding. No doubt if a dwelling has lots of openings that it gets windy during the night, humidity is not an issue. The old kampung houses are best esp if they are surrounded by trees and raised on stilts. That's correct climate response and in Queensland, they old homes up til after WW2 are built like that. Louvered (Naco) windows are the best as it captures wind from any direction with up to 95% capture. Mosquito is an unwanted side effect but that's another story. Not to mention the deep set verendah/lanai which is missing here but now here that's a security liability/risk.

High rise properties different again because 1) it's easier to catch the wind at higher elevation and 2) the intrusion from ground heat that a landed property experiences is minimised except for penthouses. The raise on stilts part is why condo can easily capture wind hence cooler.

It's different story esp for landed. In my landed dwelling, that wasn't the case. The walls and roof baked my home kao kao. So how if I don't install roof insulation? Time the roof ceiling extractor fan to pull cool air in at 3am until 7am so that the house remains cool. Pull the air from the front inwards to the back so that the kitchen don't feel like an oven. This is one way for an existing dwelling to properly respond in this climate: Cross-ventilation and proper regular air exchange.

So why Ac works? Dehumidification. But the art and science is how much and how low in our climate? Actually not much. 26-27 degree ok already in day. 28 degree with 1 speed fan already ok in the night. Any lower is waste of electricity and unhelpful mis-adaption for our body as well as excess drying rate for the lungs of young chidren.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 14 2014, 12:02 PM

If you're in Klang Valley, check out jintex electronics.

Bro, yes if extrapolated that way. But in our context, here 28 degree at 80-85 is still quite uncomfortable and that's correct. Like you said not that low but still high humidity.

High rise building heat collector very perceptible at the penthouse or highest level and not so if any lower and in between. The mitigating factor is wind movement at that elevation.

Humidity in Malaysia varies from locale to locale but in urban dwelling esp inside landed homes the only constant factor is high humidity and high temperature without AC is uncomfortable. Unless one sleeps outside with mosquito netting different story. Normally windows closed because: 1) mosquitoes 2) noise intrusion from street but that's the side effect

Bro, sorry if I come off that way but that's the truth in some parts of KL and PJ it's a urban heat island where I live or used to live. No joke. Some places need them and in some not too much of it required. I'm sharing what I have experienced but that doesn't mean any of our points is not valid. No one is asking anyone to follow anybody here. Don't cloud the issue. Peace ok?