Ah... even better.

most times either under/over spec or filter/blower dirty or gas leakage. other causes could br inferior quality gas pipes. even my old daikin r22 suffered from gas leak that it auto shut down. error code showed it as so and an inspection showed that it burst 1ft from compressor. those with compressors that can pump very high vertically esp 2hp and over should get very sturdy pipes.

ya agree on these points. if you're re-doing next round, check out Inaba Denko, Smartco or Armaflex. These are quite good. The first two marketed as Paircoil. Unless you have supplier contacts in O&G and can get better brands like Kflex cheap.

got good got bad. i have a fair share of those.

Not denying that these guys don't work hard but even the installers I had contracted before are of varying workmanship quality. Now I only stick to one. Only ask his opinion, buy the AC and he just install it for me. Only time will tell if handiwork or material is good or not. The good thing about SG is they are stringent and BCA/NEA can fine installers so they kiasi or kiachenghu. Pipe quality is consistently good too. Armaflex is mostly what I have seen but not denying there are other brands. In Thailand, there's another brand of piping that's using German coupling technique and it's mostly Alu. Simpler to use but need the right tools.

Also, the experienced installers esp in SG will always ask before hand about the compressor location, window type and size just to predict if compressors speced can go through it or not. Very crucial if using a multi-system.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 20 2014, 03:38 PM

The gas is the refrigerant (coolant) that exchange the heat from the room. As the heat is taken out the room temperature gradually lowers. Hence the air is "conditioned" (by reference to temperature and humidity). Electricity powers the compressor (change the phase of the coolant from gas to liquid) and pump. The pipe containing the coolant operates under pressure. Inverter (coolant type R410a) operates at 1.6-1.7 times the pressure of non-inverter (coolant type R22).

In the older days, window type is more common. Usually, this is placed below the window. The window type have the compressor and blower linked as if it's a single unit package. Then split units became popular because window type integrated package not practical in all situations (like dining room). In those days in Japan, the prevalent configuration of houses does not cater for AC ledge like what we see today in condos. The compressors may need to be placed on the ground or on the top floor (for clothes drying use). The pipes may need to be long running to reach the upper/lower floors. That means the pump are required to push the coolant very far.

Daikin, Fujitsu, Hitachi, Mitsubishi (Electric and Heavy Industries), National/Panasonic (of the old days) and Sanyo plus other lesser known Japanese brands have very strong pump in the compressor. These can pump 10-20metres depending upon the AC rated horse power. It is for these type of housing configuration that their pumps are specified.

In the older days before the late 1990s, AC pipes are quite consistent in quality. After that Made in China pipes prevailed in quantity. However with these China pipes also means inconsistent quality. Combine these strong pumps and poor quality pipes that can burst with passage of time, you get the picture. Sometimes it's also incorrect installation at the flaring nut (where the pipes connects at the compressor joint) that also cause the leak. I had two cases of poor pipe quality until a friend in M&E industry in SG taught me the basics. After that, I just made sure good spec pipes are used and it's been ok since.

See the concealed AC piping thread.

If same guy comes back the third time, think it's better to get someone else. Anyway, weikee did right by getting a second opinion and his contractor was at least honest. Also, can't expect everything to be gotten right the first time since everyone has different level of workmanship. Sometimes not the main guy but his worker not as good as his sifu.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 22 2014, 01:06 AM

Depends on which generation of Mr Slim though and on which aspect too. Mr Slim generally easier to clean and access blower by owner. But ME MSY-GE10VA more energy saving than MHI SRK10YL than ME MSY-GJ10VA.

that's a good start but only one part of the equation. Workmanship still counts though... how the pipe is bent, how the part that connects to the compressor is cut (smooth or jagged) and whether the flaring nut is tighten properly. But yes good pipes is a must.

Hear hear! Wah bro, seems like you'd gone through your fair share of pain in getting it right. Thanks for sharing that insight.

well as for ac, i benchmark mine differently though. Inverter would normally cost 30-50% higher than non-inverter model of same HP. The difference btw the inverter and non-inverter price is what I would get my ROI by the savings realized through the tarriff rates avoided. Means if non-inverter AC uses 240 units a month but inverter is half of that, I save the average monthly unit cost of 120 units. I could take the highest bracket just to cheat but averaging it is conservative. Don't know if that makes sense or pass your logic gate (ie my logic fail by your standards ) But wow how come the shop guy chose 21 degree? Cannot tahan if it's even at 26 at night. For that the hygrometer records about 60-65% humidity range bordering on dry range.

this is the Thai based company I mentioned - Pimatec

Makes plastic but diversified to water/AC pipes also.

Fittings in action
Installation method
Installation on site in Nichida Thani

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 22 2014, 02:20 AM