want to ask want to ask, after polishing the car (say, Meg Ulti Polish, hand applied), after i buff off the polish with MF cloth, do i need to somehow clean the paint surface with something (assume in the perfect world)? IPA?? If i don't have IPA, can i just directly go to apply wax?? (ULW, hand apply)

side question 1: IPA is the Isopropyl Alcohol. Where can i buy this kind of stuff actually? in what form? i've totally no clue
side question 2: talking about Ultimate polish and ultimate compound, is M205 & M105 the equivalent??? just a guess following reading some google search results. M105 is like super popular, then i guess that it is Ultimate Compound lols. As Meg consumer line usually have their Detailer line or Mirror Glaze equivalent. Same to Ultimate Polish equal M205, am i correct??

Ok ok. Then my next question is, what's the correct application method? Spray it onto the paint surface and wipe with MF? (Meaning same as how you would use QD?) Do i need dilution? I search the trade zone, found ppl got sell IPA, its at 99.7% pure IPA. Sounds very strong haha. I don't think i can hand carry it over the plane.. since it is flammable product.

Then another question regarding baking LSP under hot sun.. because i see most wax product just advise buff off after 5-10 mins of application. Is it that baking will make the LSP cure better/performs protection better, even if it will become difficult to buff off??

Here is my guess:
D111 Shampoo Plus aka NXT Car Wash OR Utimate Wash and Wax
M62 Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner aka Gold Class wash
D110 Hyper Wash aka ... maybe Deep Crystal Car Wash??

The above is just my guess. Need sifu to correct me if I'm wrong..

EDIT: looks like i got it all wrong..

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 14 2014, 03:54 PM

thanks for the IPA dilution info!

as for the baking LSP, i've always thought you guys means baking under the sun BEFORE buff off.. luckily i asked out again lols. so baking meaning: Apply LSP>buff off>Bake , and NOT Apply LSP>Bake>Buff off

yup that's what showed up in my google search as well. but he don't do mail delivery, and i think is very difficult also because its alcohol aka extremely flammable aka serious flight risk. Most courier won't accept i think? because you see, this IPA i need it in east malaysia..

what kind of store got sell this kind of thing?? those who supply cleaning products like those automated paper tower dispenser found at mall's toilet??

wohh good readings.. not yet gone through all yet. have bookmarked this page of this thread for my future reference

helped a friend to try to restore SHINNNEEEE to his wira. now, his wira's paint surface has formed an incredible think & coarse layer of sand dust / garnet dust, because the car is always parked in relative proximity to a sand blasting facilities. and the guy almost never wash there car. only occasionally send to car wash centre for basic wash, and ofcourse, the layer of hardened dust can't be washed away. when touching the surface, can almost say it felt like touching fine grade sand paper.

Picture showing before wash state. put up some close-up view dunno if you guys can see the hardened sand layer. It is most visually apparent on all the windows surface.


Step 1: so first step, naturally, wash the car first. wash with Meg UWW. when spraying the car with water, also took some photo for water beading check. as you can see, there's totally no water beading at all. the water in fact gathered on the paint surface. the gathered water is so thick that at distance, the car looks very shiny because the water is giving off the reflection. wash wash wash.


Step 2: after washing (and before drying), started to do the claying, using UWW shampoo mix & PG wonder clay No.2. yes yes i know you guys recommend me to use a shampoo only product and not wash & wax, but, that's what i only got at this moment so, just be it. Oh man, this stage is THE MOST TIRING stage! it is sooooo muscle intensive.. the sand layer is sooo difficult to remove. Me and the car owner is rubbing the surface with the clay like mad! the window is even more difficult to clay. once the sand layer has been removed slowly, can feel the clay glide on the surface easily. but a hell lot of effort is put into removing the sand layer.. spend about 2-3 hrs just to clay the whole car, by 2 ppl. but i know i need to do this stage properly as i feel that this is the MOST important part for today. my hand and arm is like super duper sour. took a picture on window showing clayed and un-clayed comparison.


Step 3: Wash again to remove the claying residue. after rinsing, took some photo again to check water beading. still no water beading even though it's UWW.

after that, drying with chamois (synthetic). the car already looks reasonably shine! not sure its my (and the car owner's) hard effort on claying, or because the UWW just make the car looks shiny after wash! even though not much water beading.


Step 4: Polishing with Meg Ultimate Polish. i actually not really sure how to apply this. for today i just apply it on a slightly damp applicator pad, and proceed to rub the surface. i say rub because i did put down some force in this stage. not sure if i induce more swirls in the process.. but anyway, most of the light scratches i unable to remove them. the only one i successfully remove a bit is the finger nail scratches at the door handle. i really think i need a DA and Ultimate compound here.. UP maybe too light/fine to do any correctional cutting and somemore, i only got my muscle, a already soured and cramped muscle from the claying stage.. and finally when buffing, i find it quite difficult to buff off the residue. when applying, i use quite little product and just try to don't let the paint surface too dry when polishing, not sure if i doing correct.

Step 5: finally, apply LSP with Meg ULW. hand application also. applying this is much more easier than the UP. and buffing off is easier also. the result (the shine) is quite good for me


Other Steps: windows cleaned/rubbed with Waxco glass polish & cleaner after claying. then, apply with PG DuraZ rain repellant. Tyre sprayed with KIT APC, rubbed with a shoe brush of somekind, rinsed. and at the end sprayed with PG tyre shine (my next target, Endurance Gel ). i was also planned for some slight interior cleaning ie rub the dash board and door sides with KIT APC, wipe-off a few times with damp/wet cloth, and finally apply with Meg Ultimate Protectant. but this step totally skipped due to time of the day is running out and ohh my arms, my hands, ohhh, just sour..

Summary: well.. i think i got about.. 70% satisfaction out from this session? because when touch the surface after waxing, still can feel some patches of paint still got those hardened sand layer feel. its much much less than before, but, still can feel with hands. but can't really help it at the same time because it is so tiring claying the car, so some parts get overlooked a bit lorr.. and also i did not attempted to look for swirl marks lol. so this car i would say need to be clayed again in near future, need to be polished with correctional power which is greater than hand applied UP. NOTE on that night, it rained and so can see that the water is beading good! here's the photo.


This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 16 2014, 08:03 AM

oh, my kahhcangggg

thanks thanks i'm still not familiar with which clay is aggressive or less aggressive. take for example PG clay, got no.1 (less aggressive), no.2 (medium aggressive), no.3 (more aggressive, and abrasive). should i pick up PG clay no.3? i quite scared because on the back label, No.3 is advertised as abrasive. i scare it will scratch and leave tiny swirls, because i don't have a DA yet to correct them later. anyone got experience with PG clay no.3?

maybe later i should try out osren's or TW claybar? as my current clay already looks and feel a bit saturated haha.

for UP, yea i did leave it on for a while before buffing similar to how i did with wax... ok ok next time i'll keep the MF nearby to buff off quickly after complete working the polish.. thanks for pointing this out

i really need to get that UC & DA...maybe get the UC first..hm..
i think i took about.. 5+ hours total?

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 16 2014, 08:11 PM

yep yep i also feel it dry up quite fast. i need to drag the applicator pad sometimes. when you work on UP (hand) did you use a lot of pressure??
i don't have a machine at the moment..

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 16 2014, 08:15 PM

You mean the ultramate DAS6 is quite heavy vibration? What if compared to those RB buffer machine? Which one vibrate more? Cause I've used a RO buffer machine and know the vibration level of that.

Thanks! the PG DuraZ rain repellent. Ok la, first applied, beads water very good. After 2 weeks, can feel it wear off a bit dy. In the 2 weeks i got use wiper occasionally lor, rain once or twice. I think 3rd week need to reapply if i want maximum water beading all the time! So far still happy with it.

ook, thanks for the info. will check Clay no.3 out. btw, if i'm going to buy just one a compounder product, between UC & swirlX, which has more cutting/correctional power? i feel like i want to buy UC, cause has been reading quite good reviews on Meg's forum & other places on M105. then also i would've 3 bottles of Ultimate haha.

you can eliminate swirls marks effectively?? for me i find it not easy to remove swirls. are you using machine application or hand application??

this RO buffer


planning to visit osren when got chance... wanna get their spray bottle and maybe checkout their clay bar & ultramate..

i got it from a AEON BIG (or ex-carrefour). i think best if you can go midvalley, if the Aeon big don't have there, can you try AEON/Jusco. if still don't have, can go Acehardware.. haha.

I got the same experience here. when's the next meg discount?? Wanna get UC liaw

wohh, so dahsyat. ok noted will definitely be more careful when using hand compound

just checked with osren, 6 bottle RM 60 or RM 15/bottle is for chemical resistance type. normal spray head only RM 4, which is even cheaper than daiso! will definitely visit osren when got chance. btw, D155 last touch no need use chemical resistance spray head i think?

that's why ppl always says UC should always/preferably followed by UP?

yup now i know got other brands out there, but before that, being a noobie, only knows Meg haha. now that already bought many megs, can't really go and try out other brands before this current megs runs out. or else going to end up storing lots of unfinished car care products at home. reminded me of sifu krismas's closet . i also remember while crawling abit v2 thread i think, saw Quazacolt bought a whole bunch of Sonax product also haha, not sure if he finished those.

hmmm, why nobody tried synthetic chamois cloth here for drying ? is it actually not good or not advisable? does waffle weave have better absorption power & at the same time safer for paint??

double post..

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 20 2014, 09:46 AM

opss my mistake thanks for pointing that out.

MUSCLE POWWAAAHHHH

omg, there's MF cloth, waffle weave, natural chamois, synt chamois, terry towel, polishing cotton cloth, glass cloth.. etc etc.. now there's the suede cloth??? i mean, its new to me haha

thanks for highlighting this~~!! anyone has visual confirmation already??