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 Car Care and Detailing [V3], LYN Automotive Detailing Thread

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scoutfai
post May 20 2014, 08:39 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ May 19 2014, 06:37 PM)
paging vx55
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I presume the gentleman you paging is Kah Wei?
Anyway thanks for the help.
scoutfai
post May 20 2014, 08:46 AM

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The Lake Country pads have the following aggressive level according to color:

Purple Foam Wool Pad
Yellow Cutting Pad
Orange Light Cutting Pad
Green Light Cutting/ Polishing Pad
White Polishing Pad
Black Finishing Pad
Blue Light Finishing Pad

Is it necessary to have all of them? Can we skip some level and only pick a few which still allow us to cover the whole spectrum?

BTW, I see LC has a lot of different technology pads.
May I ask the one carried by ShineCars.com.sg is what kind of LC pads? I knew the dimension as it is stated there but I frequently heard term like LC CCS flat pad, CCS curve, hydro foam, etc. I am not sure the pad carried by them is belong to which class of LC pad.

An example of the pic of the LC pad carried by this Singapore shop:
user posted image

and what are the differences, advantage and disadvantages of these different technology LC pads? make newbie like me so confused.
scoutfai
post May 20 2014, 12:45 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ May 20 2014, 12:24 PM)
CCS - got something like 'dimples', suppose to 'hold' polishes better and longer instead of being absorbed into the foam. Mainly meant for DA use.
Flat - normal foam
CCS curved - CCS but the face is curved/convex, can't remember what's the 'supposed' advantage.
Hydro - stiffer, denser than normal foam. Supposed to keep the polishes longer on the surface. Meant for the 'newer' water based polishes.

Personally, I'm not bothered with LC pads except for the normal flat ones. I have them all and haven't touched them for ages and ALL my CCS pads aren't usable anymore - crumbled and disintegrated....except for the flat ones...
*
shakehead.gif suddenly LC becomes such a lousy brand for pad.
so I suppose flat foam is the one carried by Shinecars.com.sg since the pad in the pic just looks completely flat.

In Singapore and Malaysia, other than the following shops, who else carry LC pads?

Malaysia: Osren, Duragloss Malaysia (webstore).
Singapore: Autorage, Shinecars


BTW bro KrisMas, any comment on whether it is necessary to have all different level of aggressiveness pads?

This post has been edited by scoutfai: May 20 2014, 12:46 PM
scoutfai
post May 20 2014, 03:42 PM

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QUOTE(GRexer @ May 20 2014, 01:00 PM)
Classis foam pads had always been flat. As with Krismas, most of my flat pads, even the oldest ones, are still working and most of my CCS had, well, gone to "other uses".

Depending on what machine you're settling on. I would say, for the same price and if you planned to have the RUPES later. Just get the RUPES pads, the price isn't too much difference from LC.

If you're are skimping, green and yellow would do. I have the full range. The Blue although feels like Scotch Brite, surprisingly the finishing isn't too bad.
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So all LC CCS pad must be used frequently in order to keep it "usable" , i mean increase its life span?
Once it settle down for too long it will start to deteriorate?

Not getting RUPES (at least not now), just traditional 8mm throw DA.

Since you have full range of LC flat foam pad, may I ask, if you only can have 3 pads (or maybe you have better minimum number to suggest), one for compounding, one for polishing, and one for LSP application (preferably no cutting power), which 3 colors of LC pad should choose?
Will these combination enough to cover the whole spectrum of buffing need?

This post has been edited by scoutfai: May 20 2014, 09:49 PM
scoutfai
post May 20 2014, 09:55 PM

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QUOTE(vx55 @ May 20 2014, 05:12 PM)
Hi,

I am not sure about LC DA Backing Plate, but the Notty version is the same that comes with the DA.
Come to think of it, I am looking to get the Mirka backing plate, the one with holes to help cool the backing plate and pads during work.
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Hi man. Smart, how u know I am getting my DA from them rclxms.gif
yah I kind of can guess that the default plate comes with the DA is this Notty brand, cause the sticker looks the same.

You can't drill some holes on the plate yourself?
Come to think of it, even though you have holes on the plate, but when you put a pad on it, all the holes covered up, still got ventilation function?
scoutfai
post May 20 2014, 10:02 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I have been writing quite some email inquiring regarding his product. But I didn't realize Jeremy is in the FB group.
Since it is business related so I try not make it so public thus I just email.

Following your advice, may I know which 3 colors of LC pad you will choose for the 3 levels of aggressiveness purpose?

BTW is the red pad in LC the lowest aggressiveness or the blue pad? Among black, blue, red, which one has no cutting power at all? As my purpose mainly to use for LSP application I need something that is zero cutting ability to be used often.

QUOTE
Megs on the right track for this one.

icon_rolleyes.gif Good to hear that for me as I plan to use Meguiar's W68DA backing plate + 3 of the Soft Buff 2.0 7" foam pad.
Plus some 5.5" LC pads with the default plate with the DA.
And another 3" LC plate + 3" LC pads. I believe should allow me to cover the whole car and all level of aggressiveness.


This post has been edited by scoutfai: May 20 2014, 10:07 PM
scoutfai
post May 21 2014, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(vx55 @ May 21 2014, 09:11 AM)
Haha I didn't know you are getting your DA from Jeremy!

I can drill the holes myself, but there's chance that I might compromise the structural integrity of the backing plate.
Yup, with the holes, heat can still escape from the back of the pad. DA machines tend to have more heat build up at the velcro area, and I manage to overheat and delaminate two pads with my Bigfoot 21 haha!
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That's not within warranty?
I remember last time Griot's Garage 6" DA polisher has a cooling fan design intergrated, but now I do not see such design DA anymore, even Griot's Garage took it out from their own machine.
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image

scoutfai
post May 21 2014, 11:40 AM

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Thanks for the advice. Then Orange, White, Black are what I going after.

One question, Rupes Bigfoot LHR21ES and LHR15ES used what size pad in term of inch?

I was informed by Rupes Italy the LHR21 backing plate cannot used on Bigfoot LHR15ES polisher
but the reverse is true however (LHR15 backing plate can be used on Bigfoot LHR21ES).
You somehow manage to find way to attach the LHR21 backing plate to your Bigfoot LHR15ES?
scoutfai
post May 21 2014, 08:16 PM

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Is it correct to interpret your reply as in order to avoid the heat build up, use the following product as shown in your collection laugh.gif

Back to the serious question, you mean Bigfoot LHR21ES on LHR21 plate or LHR15 plate will generate high heat?
scoutfai
post May 21 2014, 08:23 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ May 21 2014, 12:00 PM)
Rupes pads are cut at an angle at the side, but the face is 150mm/6" for LHR15 and 180mm/7" for LHR21.

Full descriptions here: http://www.buffdaddy.com/rupes/buffingpads

Hrrmmm....not sure what Rupes Italy meant by 'cannot use' but the backing plates are easily interchangeable and a perfect fit - just screw and unscrew. Maybe what they meant is using the LHR21 backing plate on LHR15 would upset the balance or something....
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I think they should mean the vibration and imbalance issue will not be within their design tolerance. But customer always outsmart the designer so if it can fit I also think no problem. It is just that I always in the impression that this cannot be done becuase Autogeek says like this, Rupes official reply says like this, and I never see any youtube showing this neither, I see a lot of youtube using LHR21ES polisher with the LHR15 backing plate though.


Bro KrisMas, I have a new headache now and wish to get your advice.
I do intend to invest into Rupes LHR21ES in future. So logically speaking for the sake of saving cost, I should buy 6.5" pads so that not only I can use on traditional DA, i also can use for Rupes LHR21ES later in future.
But I have read somewhere in Meguiar's forum that traditional DA best suits for 5.5" pads and any pad bigger than this tends to give too much load to the machine and prompt the pad to bog down, which is one of the reason Meguiar's recommends traditional DA user uses their 5" microfiber pad instead of the 6". The 6" according to them is designed for the Flex 3401 kind of machine user.

My question, will using 6.5" pads on a traditional DA bring adverse effect in term of cutting ability? Should I even bother about this? 6.5" 5.5" one inch difference sounds so little.
scoutfai
post May 22 2014, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(iamsobloodysick @ May 22 2014, 12:01 AM)
You Kenot use other backing plate but rupes on Bigfoot. The heat can hancur the pad.

5.5" pad is easier to use.

I find that 6.5" is not user friendly.
*
But other than the user friendliness, is there any drawback on cutting ability on a traditional DA?
What about likelihood of bogging down too?
(comparing 5.5" and 6.5" pad on a traditional DA)
scoutfai
post May 22 2014, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(iamsobloodysick @ May 21 2014, 11:55 PM)
I own LHR21 and have 2 different backing plate (150mm and 125mm).

Most of the time I use 125mm plate because it is easier and more stable to control the Bigfoot.
I believe LHR21 and LHR15 equally generate high heat on the backing plate because of the big throw.

I tried before by using LC pad, it delaminated after a few runs.

And for the Rupes pad, you cannot apply too much of pressure to the pad because it will gradually hancur by the heat caused by the pressure.
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If you were to have a chance to start all over again, will you go after the LHR15ES instead of the LHR21ES?

Or you prefer the 21mm throw given by the LHR21ES but smaller size pad given by the 125mm backing plate?
scoutfai
post May 22 2014, 03:54 PM

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Thanks Bro KrisMas for the detail explanation. Appreciate your time spent to write it.
I will get three 5.5" pads, forget about the 6.5" pads at the moment. Get what is best for the tool at hand first. Who knows after I play around with this sometime I will change my mind from planning to get LHR21ES to LHR15ES.
Even if I getting LHR21ES in future, the default 3 pads come with it should be enough for me to use for a while till I need to invest into new 6.5" pads again.
Suddenly feel like I am a shopaholic tongue.gif This hobby is poisonous to the wallet.

scoutfai
post May 23 2014, 01:05 PM

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Regarding serious rock chip damage, always have a thought to put up some filling putty first then only put touch up paint on top. Using touch up paint drops to fill it seem like taking forever to get it done nicely.
For this purpose, what kind of putty is best?

Something like this. It exists in the market but I just do not know what kind of putty used and what solution to wipe it away.





This post has been edited by scoutfai: May 23 2014, 01:07 PM
scoutfai
post May 27 2014, 07:47 AM

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This bucket from TESCO also can use the grit guard sold by bro KrisMas, or to be exact the grit guard from the USA grit guard.com
My typical washing routine items:
user posted image
Now using 4 buckets system, 2 for wheels 2 for body.
But I am interested with your bucket. Where do you get it? It looks like it was originally used to fill other chemical stuff like paint.
I was once searching for it but could not find it. Then I accidentally came across this tesco bucket, I even bring my grit guard to test.
The bucket from tesco 5 gallons, less than RM10 if I recall correctly.

This post has been edited by scoutfai: May 27 2014, 07:51 AM
scoutfai
post May 27 2014, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(ikan_semilang @ May 27 2014, 08:03 AM)
Osren got selling, RM20 per unit...

user posted image
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But your black color one is not from OSREN right?
scoutfai
post May 27 2014, 12:45 PM

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QUOTE(g88 @ May 27 2014, 11:45 AM)
Where do you get the long blue colour brush ? how much is it ?
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From Autobacs Klang Sentral.
Price not so remember as I bought it quite sometime ago but I think should not be less than RM20.
scoutfai
post May 27 2014, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(kww @ May 27 2014, 02:38 PM)
[attachmentid=3988891]
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Eiyoh I am not alone mah tongue.gif

I am sure got more OCD person here biggrin.gif
scoutfai
post May 28 2014, 12:29 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ May 28 2014, 11:40 AM)
As far as I know that's just about true. But my version of the story is that it's not 2 versions...it's more like it was previously from Japan but the new ones are now from China. The Japan one has M16 thread and the China one has M14 thread. Mine is the 'old' one and says Made in Japan....I can't remember whether the new one got the 'Made in China' on the label or not.
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M16 or M14, which one more convenient in Malaysia? I mean in term of getting the right backing plate.

The Dewalt one is what thread size?
scoutfai
post May 28 2014, 09:05 PM

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@jchue73
I have no pressure washer (not yet, will be soon). But even if I have one I will still use grit guard whenever I need to use bucket to wash (if that needs arise, not 100% sure it will arise or not after got the PW).

I do think the grit guard works. Do I have proof? No. But so far my experience haven tell me the otherwise, or it has not disappoint me yet.
Do I think that it prevents 100% any dirt from getting up again?
Definitely no, as soon as one creates a vortex spiral it probably will suck up with the flow (at least I believe that way). But having said that, nothing in this world is foolproof (at least not in the detailing world) and there is always a procedure that yield better assurance than the others.
In this case if logic already tell us vortex could bring back the dirt up, then simply do not spin the water in the bucket (with grit guard) like a 5 years old kid, then solve the issue, even not 100%, bring it to the maximum assurance one can achieve with the current technology and resources.

I do think that there are other washing methods that can give swirl free result without the use of grit guard. One way being your way, after all the purpose of grit guard is to prevent particles from sticking back onto the mitt, this objective is achievable by other means.

Nevertheless, I think given the cost and level of safety assurance it can give, I still think grit guard is a very cost effective way. It is especially useful to those without convenient access to free flow water source like apartment, though I do not live in apartment.

PW using the method you mention, would requires the frequent stop and go of the pump, no matter how tough a machine is designed to, a machine used in a stop and go manners will always not last as long as a machine which used in a continuous operating manner. Of course if the life span is reduced to say, 5 years only, but user already throw it away at 3rd year then completely no need to worry about this.

One of the forum member here taught me the PW uses less water, forgotten is it you laugh.gif I buy this idea. which is why i will get one icon_rolleyes.gif

Another reason is of course bro @KrisMas selling cheap so I see no harm getting more brows.gif


hmm.gif I think after I got the PW, I most likely will blow the mitt with PW like you suggested, then I still dip in to grit guard pail LOL.

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