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 Lowyat.Net Watercooling Club V7, Your WCed rigs, discussions, ideas & etc

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TSpristine
post Mar 12 2014, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(torino @ Mar 12 2014, 04:10 PM)
Guys, can you guys guide me on this;

i'm currently funding and buying wc parts by parts..
now im kinda confuse with pump selection..is ddc and mcp355 is the same? and what makes mcp35x better? is it just it has pwm features?

i'll give my current plan so you got the rough idea;
-single loop (tj08-e)
-120mm rad (XT45) with 180mm/200mm rad (currently looking for used unit)
-pump with top reservoir(my ODD bay kinda full with HDD so forget about any bay reservoir)
-will cool cpu + single gpu

your suggestions/comments are highly appreciated for my first custom wc experience... biggrin.gif
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DDC=355 series pumps
D5=655 series pumps

35X has an improved pump top which will take G1/4" barbs, and has better flow (new volute design). 35X also allows for PWM control.

180/200mm rads are great if you can find a used unit which will be hard. if you want you can join Lucasss frozencpu bulk now and grab one quick. phobya and magicool are the brands you'll want to check out

if you're worried about space in your rig, check out the swiftech apogee drive II. it's a pump waterblock combo.
TSpristine
post Mar 17 2014, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(AsTheCreatorZ @ Mar 17 2014, 10:25 PM)
I got question here..

Asus M6F got CrossChill...mostly said its anodized aluminium...so can this works with cooper? nickel block should be fine right? i think mostly rad using cooper...correct me if im wrong...

juz checking b4 buying smile.gif
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You actually can since anodising works to up corrosion resistance.

BUT

Anodising has various types and various thickness. Each anodising method is different.

ALSO

If the anodised layer in the M6F system is damaged/scratched deep enough to expose the aluminium, you can pretty much say hello to corrosion.

So, if you have the cash, just change out the M6F "water block". Otherwise, find corrosion inhibitor for your water loop. If you don't want to find water cooling specific corrosion inhibitors, you can substitute with car coolants which have corrosion inhibitor. Mix a ratio of the car coolant with distilled water.

Also, I think some water cooling coolants might have corrosion inhibitors in them.
TSpristine
post Mar 17 2014, 11:04 PM

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QUOTE(AsTheCreatorZ @ Mar 17 2014, 10:46 PM)
I see....thx Pristine smile.gif  notworthy.gif

Maybe later i will try to examine the block..if any scratches that cause corrossion..

can recommend coolant that have corrosion inhibitors?  hmm.gif
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The ones I'd recommend

Concentrates (250ml to make 1L):
Mayhems X1, Mayhems Pastel

Premix:
XSPC EC6 (1L)
TSpristine
post Mar 20 2014, 12:42 AM

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so... who has a R4BE?

user posted image
TSpristine
post Mar 20 2014, 12:37 PM

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QUOTE(killerkamote7 @ Mar 20 2014, 12:21 PM)
HNNGGGHHHHH!!

it covers both CPU and mobo?  rclxub.gif
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Yep. Full block
TSpristine
post Mar 25 2014, 08:53 PM

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QUOTE(Lucassss @ Mar 25 2014, 06:45 PM)
I'm so popular around here. pristine, you can retire already. tongue.gif
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yeah, retire from bulking already. haha.
TSpristine
post Mar 27 2014, 12:38 PM

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azilazwa I've requested for the photon to be brought into Malaysia. If you're not in a hurry, can wait. smile.gif
TSpristine
post Mar 27 2014, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(azilazwa @ Mar 27 2014, 12:40 PM)
great! and when is the eta and the expected price for it?
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Not sure.

But if you're looking for the photon pump combo, I don't think that's available yet. Only available in the kit.

Other option to consider would be from Primochill, but that's not out on the shelves either. lol
TSpristine
post Mar 29 2014, 12:01 AM

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QUOTE(yimingwuzere @ Mar 28 2014, 08:45 PM)
What do you guys think of full CPU/mobo blocks? Found a Bitspower full block for my P8Z77-I Deluxe but it seems to be out of stock everywhere. Are full blocks worth while for just moderate overclocks, or should I just go for an EK Supremacy block instead?
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If you're serious about getting a full block for the board, EK's version of the full block would probably do better in terms of performance.

Looks wise, go ahead and buy. tongue.gif

Whether the full block is worth the bother or not depends what you'll be messing with in terms of overclocking settings. Also, if your motherboard vrm sinks won't be getting any air flow in the case, going with a full block is a good idea.
TSpristine
post Mar 31 2014, 11:32 PM

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QUOTE(Zzorro @ Mar 31 2014, 09:23 PM)
oic btw can get this tool at local hardware shop?
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QUOTE(Lucassss @ Mar 31 2014, 10:00 PM)
I think you can. But not sure about this size though.
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Can get locally from shops that sell PVC tubings, Ace Hardware and the better stocked hardware stores. Size is universal.
TSpristine
post Apr 5 2014, 12:14 AM

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yimingwuzere

SGTs are still better in terms of reliability and static pressure. Acoustically more silent too.

I have the 2400rpm eloops. They are not worth the money unless you are after the design. lol.

ELoops do not work well on pull, they hum when operating in pull configuration.

Look for noiseblocker multiframes. They are amazing.

No one locally stocks eloops because of the price tag. You can ask APES if they still carry multiframes. They used to carry.

Also, the eloop 2400s are nearly like deltas at full speed.

Sentinel92 damn crazy la you recommend people eloops.
TSpristine
post Apr 5 2014, 12:52 AM

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QUOTE(gxthelord @ Apr 5 2014, 12:16 AM)
what about those Artic F12? I tot they performed quite decent and quite cheap as well?
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For the same amount of money, you're probably better off buying Swiftech Helix fans.

QUOTE(Sentinel92 @ Apr 5 2014, 12:23 AM)
Well, I did say it was expensive.  tongue.gif
Plus if sifu pristine uses it, it's good.  rclxms.gif
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LOL. Bought them more for how they looked rather than how they performed since my rads can take anything I throw at them. tongue.gif
TSpristine
post Apr 10 2014, 10:05 PM

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Check out Swiftech Helix as well
TSpristine
post Apr 10 2014, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(azilazwa @ Apr 10 2014, 10:22 PM)
i've bought a used pump n res recently. but this is my 1st time using this kind of pump, so i dont know which is in & out flow..  sweat.gif

is this correct?
user posted image
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Yep. The top port is the inlet.
TSpristine
post Apr 10 2014, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(azilazwa @ Apr 10 2014, 10:35 PM)
Ok. So, usually how is the loop connection?

1. pump-->res-->wb-->rad-->pump

or

2. res-->pump-->wb-->rad-->res
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Always res before pump so your pump will never run dry.
TSpristine
post Apr 10 2014, 10:58 PM

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QUOTE(azilazwa @ Apr 10 2014, 10:46 PM)
what is the function of the "top" actually? i thought we can use it to connect directly to res.. but it seems that it still need an adapter
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Improves the pump performance, also in the case of the ddc, allows for G1/4" threads.
TSpristine
post Apr 11 2014, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(yimingwuzere @ Apr 10 2014, 11:55 PM)
Does anyone know of a DDC pump that has a 1/4 inlet/outlet facing the same angle? Might have issues fitting a DDC Top pump in my build.
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See if you can get hold of Phobya or Aquacomputer pump tops. They have 2 inlets and 2 outlets.

No DDC pump has inlet/outlets at the same angle due to the design of the pump impeller and volute.
TSpristine
post Apr 11 2014, 02:21 PM

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QUOTE(yimingwuzere @ Apr 11 2014, 02:17 PM)
I mean something like the Swiftech MCP355.
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Same thing. 350/355/35X/DDC. Same pump design, just different specifications. None of which have G/14" ports at the same angle. Only the 35X comes standard with G1/4" ports one on the top, one on the side, the 350/355 has stock barbs, both on the side.

In order to get G1/4" ports at the same location (either top or side), you need to change the pump top. Only pump tops that have inlet and outlet G1/4" ports on the same side is Phobya and Aquacomputer.

This post has been edited by pristine: Apr 11 2014, 02:21 PM
TSpristine
post Apr 13 2014, 10:38 PM

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QUOTE(azilazwa @ Apr 13 2014, 07:39 AM)
a pump like this should be mount (screw the base) or i can just put it like that? normally, the how strong is the vibration?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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If you're going to screw it into your case, make sure you've got the right screws and you know which holes to use. Wrong holes and screws will lead to a different sort of headache.

You can use tape like everyone else is suggesting, but use FOAM tape or ACRYLIC tape and not typical double sided tape. Foam tape is green peel layer with white foam adhesive, acrylic is red peel layer with gel adhesive. Regular stationery double sided tape lacks the thickness to dampen vibrations and is too thin to stick properly or rough surfaces.
TSpristine
post Apr 18 2014, 09:48 AM

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Bitspower is slow to the party.

user posted image

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