nice one..now i can see all eyes of spider..which lense did u use?

i really wondering how close you guys put ur camera to the object

This are today's "macro"

Itsy-bitsy spider by NurAzam, on Flickr

Unknown by NurAzam, on Flickr

I hate spiders XD...but they look very nice

Thanks, I love to see how the spider was tangling its web onto the flower.

Thank you man!
Jumping Spiders (Salticids) have some of the cutest eyes, which is why many love to photograph them XD
Other creepier spiders can have 6-8 eyes, where members of different families might show different eye arrangements! Very interesting~

Shot taken with Mark III baby XD

Awesome shots bro~
#1:
Dayumm that is one very fat Lynx Spider haha, look at mine T___T On diet:


#2:
This kind of flies are some of the hardest to photograph, especially with flash, since they always managed to fly away even after you press the shutter button
I've not got a shot from the front yet Tough one hehe, though some sifus say it might be easier to land a shot early in the morning

With Mark III, it has to be quite close, perhaps around 5 inchs between the subject and the end of the lens. It will be even closer when Raynox or lenses of shorter (<105mm) focal lengths are used. Some insects will run away if you get to close, so have to learn from experience which ones are sensitive, then change your macro lenses accordingly.

For instance, dragonflies and damselflies are usually very alert, and are often perching at areas you cannot reach, so it might be better to just remove the extension tubes/Raynox, and shoot directly using the 90/100/105mm macro lens

Jumping Spiders are cute, though I can't say the same for the other types of spiders haha XD

Look at them eyes

Just realized something while I was checking out the new cams at Nikon BTS today

The D5300 is the first Nikon DSLR to use a 3:2 aspect ratio screen like Canon.

Photos show up fullscreen without black bars, makes even the FF 3.2 inch screens look tiny in comparison.

Guys, almost a month since i owned my D3200. Throughout last 3 weeks i have been learn alot of theory and trial and error shooting.

Last Sunday is 1st part of my wedding, the indoor lighting is bright but the colour is warm yellow. I handed my camera to my wife's bro for shooting. Before that i already fix all the setting to below:

1. A mode.
2. ISO set to 800, with ISO-A turn on, max ISO 1600, min shutter 1/8.
3. All photo without flash.
4. White balance (direct sun light)
5. LCD brightness turn down to -2 in order to match with actual output. Ori default brightness is too bright until mislead shooter feel the exposure is enough adi.
6. Center weighted metering.

So he just point and shoot without adjust anything.

Output:
1. Overall majority important shot was clear (although many of it also blur due to low shutter speed and movement),
2. I struggle with white balance, yesterday night when i back home, i saw all the picture are too yellowish, but luckily can be adjusted in LR.

So pro, i have feel questions need your help:
1. May i know should i use AWB for indoor shooting?? I don't know, i feel only the direct sun light can give me closest actual white balance most of the time, but not in restaurant lighting. Let say if at outdoor and fluorescent lighting indoor, direct sun light WB can give me accurate WB, why not inside the warm lighting? I just want my photo looks as natural as actual scene without too much WB correction.

2. Face is exposed correctly, the items on the dinner table was overexposed, although it can be corrected by lowering 'highlight' in LR. Does it means the focus point is wrong?

Anyway, after the wedding ceremony is end, i took over the camera and shoot myself, i pop up the flash, set flash option from TTL to manual full power, i use my glossy white Xperia phone to bounce the flash 45' to the ceiling, the outcome is much more nicer with correct WB. I think i will make a card with reflective material to bounce the flash to ceiling on upcoming Sunday ceremony. This time my own bro will be my camera men.

I will post some shot tonight if time permitted.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 3 2013, 11:29 AM

Le fly~

Artificial lighting will always have a certain color cast (some lights are daylight balanced and work with daylight WB setting however), but we don't notice it because our brain compensates for this shift. However the camera does not do this and has to shift color balance away from normal to correct for this.

Carrying this theory to what you're doing, the daylight setting matches the color cast of sunlight, but not fluorescent lights (green cast) or tungsten lights (warm cast), plus the fact that fluorescent lights have many different variations in color temperature. So you'll see weird colors show if you continue using daylight balance indoors.

Two ways to compensate for this:

1) For varied lighting, where you are moving from room to room under different kinds of lighting, best bet is to use AWB+RAW and fix the color balance in post.

2) For fixed lighting, where more or less you're not moving or every room is using the same kind of lights, You can preset WB using a white object (paper, wall, etc)

This post has been edited by gunzerdude: Dec 3 2013, 12:45 PM

Like bro Gunzerdude,
Past experience of me shooting an event in a hall, I use custom white balance by using white paper as standard measurement. Also used RAW+Jpeg mode. If the white balance fail, I can use the raw to recover the white balance, if the photo has alright white balance, than I stick to the JPEG. Too lazy to retouch every photos.

For face stuff, I usually make use of radial filter or brush tool to balance the exposure. Not sure if it's right thing to do, but most of the time it works.


Ate that fly already.

Lunch time! by NurAzam, on Flickr

Thanks bro.

For upcoming event is hold in a hall, so the lighting is same throughout the hall, and i compare with the hall used in last Sunday, the lighting also same kind of yellow cast.

For solution 2:
Let say i using white A4 paper, where should i shoot the white paper for preset WB? At the hall on spot or under sun light?

A white paper would not be a good option..

Because it is thin/transparent, unless it is a pure white cardboard than that would be a better options..

If you are so concerned about WB, maybe you can get an EXPO Disc which would give u accurate WB at the same time convenient! You'll save plenty of time that way

I would normally shoot in Auto WB in events and all and manipulate later in post processing!

Here's a link for more information on EXPO Disc!

http://www.expoimaging.com/product-overview.php?cat_id=1

Cheers!

I have been gone for to long! So many macro shots!

Recent event I shot last weekend! Met many new friends! Ranging from photographers, drivers and models


Untitled by Calvin Seak, on Flickr


Untitled by Calvin Seak, on Flickr

Car or Girls?



This post has been edited by Calvin Seak: Dec 3 2013, 02:31 PM

Omg... Why are the photos untitled -.-"

I remembered that I actually gave them titles 1 by 1..

Grrr flickr!

title or description?

Title -

Now I need to manually add them 1 by 1 later on lol..

Carr!!! So dramatic with the rain! More car action!

see the thread description, NatGeo thread already