Guys, almost a month since i owned my D3200. Throughout last 3 weeks i have been learn alot of theory and trial and error shooting.

Last Sunday is 1st part of my wedding, the indoor lighting is bright but the colour is warm yellow. I handed my camera to my wife's bro for shooting. Before that i already fix all the setting to below:

1. A mode.
2. ISO set to 800, with ISO-A turn on, max ISO 1600, min shutter 1/8.
3. All photo without flash.
4. White balance (direct sun light)
5. LCD brightness turn down to -2 in order to match with actual output. Ori default brightness is too bright until mislead shooter feel the exposure is enough adi.
6. Center weighted metering.

So he just point and shoot without adjust anything.

Output:
1. Overall majority important shot was clear (although many of it also blur due to low shutter speed and movement),
2. I struggle with white balance, yesterday night when i back home, i saw all the picture are too yellowish, but luckily can be adjusted in LR.

So pro, i have feel questions need your help:
1. May i know should i use AWB for indoor shooting?? I don't know, i feel only the direct sun light can give me closest actual white balance most of the time, but not in restaurant lighting. Let say if at outdoor and fluorescent lighting indoor, direct sun light WB can give me accurate WB, why not inside the warm lighting? I just want my photo looks as natural as actual scene without too much WB correction.

2. Face is exposed correctly, the items on the dinner table was overexposed, although it can be corrected by lowering 'highlight' in LR. Does it means the focus point is wrong?

Anyway, after the wedding ceremony is end, i took over the camera and shoot myself, i pop up the flash, set flash option from TTL to manual full power, i use my glossy white Xperia phone to bounce the flash 45' to the ceiling, the outcome is much more nicer with correct WB. I think i will make a card with reflective material to bounce the flash to ceiling on upcoming Sunday ceremony. This time my own bro will be my camera men.

I will post some shot tonight if time permitted.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 3 2013, 11:29 AM

Thanks bro.

For upcoming event is hold in a hall, so the lighting is same throughout the hall, and i compare with the hall used in last Sunday, the lighting also same kind of yellow cast.

For solution 2:
Let say i using white A4 paper, where should i shoot the white paper for preset WB? At the hall on spot or under sun light?

May i know where could i get ExpoDisc? Camera shop got sell? And roughly how much for it?

I can alter WB in post processing, but as copperwire93 mentioned, sometimes it is not convenient to edit every single shot. Sometimes after the event even will forgot how the actual scene WB looks like.

Forgot to ask. Sunday morning when they took pic, suddenly the viewfinder looks blur, switch to liveview also same, it remained for around 10 minutes before resume back to normal. I guess is some mist inside the mirror. That day is rainy day and rained non stop since day before, but i put inside the camera bag. How can it happen? As the lens is close system right? Did you guy experience this before?

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 3 2013, 03:29 PM

Then nvm, i manipulate later in post processing...

I only shoot in RAW, RAW+Jpeg file size is too huge for D3200 as the pixel count is high. Now shoot in RAW alone 16GB memory card only can store around 500 photos only.

Just wonder LR will have the limitation if the WB is gone too far. Now i'm towards taking photo as close as what i saw rather than shots with creative effect. Is it just a dream for entry level cam + kitlens?

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 3 2013, 05:15 PM

Sad, today i found dust on the focus point area, i open up the lens the dust still remained, so i assume is inside the viewfinder. How can the dust enter that area? i din open the lens since i bought the cam, and store in drawer after used. i gooogle and seems this problem is common. What should i do now? send back to shop for warranty/cleaning? the dust is really irrritating, i can't accept even it won't affect the pic quality.

Bro, how much for the blower? can camera shop do it for me? i have no idea where should i blow.

There are 2 spots inside, something like fur rather than dust, really irritating. Yesterday night still no problem, today i bring it back from Johor to Ipoh, maybe along the highway the camera is shaking and the dust shake off from no where and stick inside the VF. Shit..i very particular on this issue, haiz...

may i know what it call for the glass in between focusing screen and prism? the glass hve focusing point and grid printed on that. The fiber that i mentioned yesterday is at the inner side of the glass.

Regarding the dust in my D3200 viewfinder, i made a huge mistake by dismantle the focusing screen and super imposed screen. I'm not sure about other models design, but D3200 design is separated focusing screen and super imposed screen (with focus grid).

The dust is inside the inner side of super imposed screen, which is the side facing prism. I wipe with micro fiber cloth and now the screen is full with many fine scratch. The focusing screen too. The expensive lesson for me.

Anyway, anyone here know how much for these 2 parts? I know the focusing screen is around 100+, just dun know how much for the super imposed screen.



This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 13 2013, 08:28 AM

Thanks bro, my wedding over already, and this happened before my wedding day, no effect on output quality.

Just that i dun know those glasses are so fragile, else i would wait after i bought the blower on next day.

Anyway, i think the warranty will be void once i send the camera back to shop that i bought, am i right?

Yes, bro, as bold part, super annoying, 2 fiber dusts stick inside the super imposed screen and just on top of the 2 focus points, everytime focus sure will see it. I can wait for next day to buy the blower, but due to my own decision, i dismantle myself and wipe using the micro fiber cloth that come with the camera. I'm too naive to expect those cloth provided should be scratch proof and dustless compare to normal fiber cloth. That was last Friday night, 2 days before my wedding.

Yesterday night i just did a final clean up using contact lens cleanser and flush with filtered water, after that blow off the water using rocket blower without wiping. But is too late, i use my handphone camera flash as the light source, direct to the reflex mirror and i observe at the viewfinder, alot of fine scratch in vertical and horizontal direction. Although not really obvious after i put back the lens, but it become an 'imperfection' inside my heart, although it won't affect the photo quality, but i still feel it will.

No pain no gain.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 13 2013, 02:07 PM

Guys, any close up filter for my Nikkor 18-55mm VR kitlens? I remembered that PF T.J. mentioned before close up filter more worth than ET...

Anyway, last Sunday i went to the camera shop to ask about the scratched focusing screen. He told me the scratches are very fine, no need to waste money for replacement, and it won't affect the operation and quality of the camera.

So i stay there and chat with the boss there. We tested out the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G ED lens, and also try reverse adapter for that lens. The macro effect is amazing (at least for me la ) due to its manual large aperture. The price not too expensive also, really tempting to get one.

End up i stay there for almost an hour and brought Nissin di622 mark ii back home. Now practicing in-door shooting using M mode.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 17 2013, 02:26 PM

Sorry, another question.

For my kitlens, 18-55mm, f1:3.5-5.6. The former spec is focal length, latter is max aperture size, which is variable depends on focal length.

Aperture size larger = more light can come in.

At FL 18mm, aperture size is 18/3.5 = 5.14
At FL 55mm, aperture size is 55/5.6 = 9.82

Is it means at max zoom, the light enter the lens to the sensor suppose is more than when FL = 18mm??

So no matter at which focal length, if the aperture no. is higher will auto means the aperture is smaller?

'The lens aperture is usually specified as an f-number, the ratio of focal length to effective aperture diameter.'
I thought is focal length/aperture no. = aperture diameter...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 17 2013, 02:53 PM

Thats the answer gave by Wikipedia when i search 'aperture'.

Ya, thats why i confuse. By right at max zoom, my kitlens should be darker than min zoom...i observed that too.

Guys, very tempting with prime lens right now.

Nikon AF 50mm/1.8D vs Nikon AF-S 50mm/1.8G.

RM4XX vs RM7XX

Motor vs no motor.

For my D3200.

Seems like u are one of the user huh, ur siggy...

Thanks alot for ur input, guys.

Ya, i saw AF-S 35mm/1.8G too.

May i know what's the main different between 35mm vs 50mm besides focal length?

Here i list down for what i know:
1. 35mm just need to stay closer to the object (compare 50mm).
2. DOF for 35mm if greater than 50mm, best for landscape.
3. Bokeh 50mm is better than 35mm, best for portrait.
4. ???

Anymore?? Kindly correct me if i'm wrong.
But anyway, if i'm not mistaken, 35mm is DX lens, 50mm i think is full frame, means 35mm effective FL is actually almost same as 50mm also?

Price wise, 35mm vs 50mm is almost same, am i right? I stay at JB, still sourcing the best price for lens. Any recommendation?

Thanks in advance.