Ozak:

For teka, http://www.teka.com/products/index/10#!prettyPhoto

choose the induction and vitroceramic hob (1 each) and compare them, the list will come out after you click on compare products.

Look for the maximum connection rating(W) in the electrical connection section. you can see whats the maximum rating for induction, vitroceramic. In the technical specs manual by teka, u need to look for the nominal power (W) listed, not the power rate per zone.

However, I can give another example of vitroceramic and induction hob in another website.

http://www.mayer.sg/index.php/products/hob...ic-641-b-detail  (Induction Hob)
http://www.mayer.sg/index.php/products/hob...c-641-db-detail (Vitroceramic Hob)

The induction hob states overall power of 7200W while the vitroceramic hob states 6600W

Atisha:

I've been using a 2 zone electric hob for a long time and I don't cook everyday, maybe 2-3 times a week and my electricity usage is pretty moderate for 2 pax (The bill never even exceeds 200 per month) If its for a family of 4 or 5 and need to cook 3-4 times a week, then the electricity bill may be about 400-500 per month on rough estimation? Induction hob have higher electrical power rating and the start up is slower than vitroceramic. Also, its safer than using gas because if you have old people living with you and they sometimes forget to turn off the gas, it can be a potential fire hazard in the long run.

BTW i thought induction and vitroceramic hobs fall under electric hob classification?

That site doesn't tell me the save/efficiency or anything compare to induction. Which 1 boiling a water is faster using same power. Or the watt change to amount of joule (energy).

7.2kw or 6.6kw is consider high for me. If base on calculation bill running at 7.2kw alternate cooking for 1hr is already RM36/mth. (0.334sen)

If talk about your usage bill for 2person is consider high. That is RM100 perperson. My average usage for 2person is RM75. I m using induction cooker.

Ozak: That is including the usage of other electrical appliances. i.e; computer, fan, tv, microwave oven with convection function. I only mention that the electricity bill does not exceed 200 per month for 2 pax usage but never mention the actual bill figure. 

On average, it is about 140-150 per month to be more precise and no change in the figures monthly either with either -/+ few dollars. I need to see how my new electricity bill will be like with my new hob and everything included when my new place is done with renovation.

Weikee:that's new to me. Usually I see energy efficient stickers on fridge,ovens and air cons but i've not really seen one that says an induction or vitroceramic hob is energy efficient unless my eyes have been looking elsewhere in the household appliance dept. 

Ozak: That is including the usage of other electrical appliances. i.e; computer, fan, tv, microwave oven with convection function. I only mention that the electricity bill does not exceed 200 per month for 2 pax usage but never mention the actual bill figure. 

On average, it is about 140-150 per month to be more precise and no change in the figures monthly either with either -/+ few dollars. I need to see how my new electricity bill will be like with my new hob and everything included when my new place is done with renovation.

Weikee:that's new to me. Usually I see energy efficient stickers on fridge,ovens and air cons but i've not really seen one that says an induction or vitroceramic hob is energy efficient unless my eyes have been looking elsewhere in the household appliance dept. 

The efficiency is induction  vs. Hotplate/vitro. They did many test. Electric hob is never energy saving, induction are more efficient when transfer/convert electric to heat.

Hotplate/Vitro is an indirect type of heat transfer. So some heat lost and efficiency is lower. They is also heat waste when you lift up your cooking ware and didn't switch OFF.

Induction is a direct heat transfer using your cooking ware. So no heat waste. Once you lift up your cooking ware, the hob is switch off and the conducting is off. That save the electricity somemore.

The main waste of heat is between the hob surface and the contact surface of the cooking ware. Another is the material that is not a good heat conductor. Example like claypot.

That is why a non direct heat transfer hob like hotplate, ceramic, infra etc never energy saving as good as induction.

Next year will be probably TNB increase the tariff rate. TNB can't bear anymore the subsidy of energy. Good luck for those looking for high power sucking hob.  --> https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3032372&hl=TNB

OMG tarrif rate increase next year  What's next other than the changes to be implemented in 2014?

True vitroceramic is not that energy efficient compared to induction in the varying ways as Ozak has pointed out but however appliances are never truly turned off unless the plug is off itself.

Ultimately, its up to us to conserve electricity on our own properly.

OMG tarrif rate increase next year  What's next other than the changes to be implemented in 2014?

True vitroceramic is not that energy efficient compared to induction in the varying ways as Ozak has pointed out but however appliances are never truly turned off unless the plug is off itself.

Ultimately, its up to us to conserve electricity on our own properly.

What I mean turn OFF is for example, when you want to temporary lift up the cooking ware to do something. Than putting back to continue cook. This is very common practice in cooking. And you won't turn the hob OFF just because for a while only. But even a minute not to turn OFF a blazing at 3000watt of heat will cost you. 

But for induction, once you lift up the cooking ware, the induction is OFF. That only left few watt to standby. Once you put back the cooking ware, the induction is continue. Without touching a single button.

Completely switch OFF is a good practice for any HOB.

I know what you mean  That's why I agreed with you that vitroceramic is not energy saving in the same ways as induction is, ozak  Just pointing out that conservation of electricity is up to us entirely.

Regardless of the pros & cons of the hob type, it's still a matter of preference, cost factors.

So to weikee and the others, for hobs 6000-7000W range, a 4mm wiring is prefered? I was thinking about the rewiring part as my hob will need 25AMP socket, then the closest would be 30AMP since the other AMP socket would be 20AMP but would it be an overload on the whole electricity load if I pull additional line? Please give advise as I am totally clueless in this?

Ozak, if I'm looking at pieno switches, then do i look out for this?

E82T15D45N
45A 250V Double Pole Switch with Neon + 13A Switched Socket with Neon

Weikee and Ozak, would it be better if I used 6mm than 4mm for 6000W use? I intend to have the main kitchen in the new back extension at my place so there's no wiring at the backyard for now except in the original kitchen space which will be converted into a dining area.

Ozak, if I'm looking at pieno switches, then do i look out for this?

E82T15D45N
45A 250V Double Pole Switch with Neon + 13A Switched Socket with Neon

Weikee and Ozak, would it be better if I used 6mm than 4mm for 6000W use? I intend to have the main kitchen in the new back extension at my place so there's no wiring at the backyard for now except in the original kitchen space which will be converted into a dining area.

Ozak, if I'm looking at pieno switches, then do i look out for this?

E82T15D45N
45A 250V Double Pole Switch with Neon + 13A Switched Socket with Neon

Weikee and Ozak, would it be better if I used 6mm than 4mm for 6000W use? I intend to have the main kitchen in the new back extension at my place so there's no wiring at the backyard for now except in the original kitchen space which will be converted into a dining area.

Yup. That is the 1.

If you completely make new extension and wiring, It is best to use 1 10mm wiring to the kitchen. Put a DB box at the kitchen. Than distribute what ever 3pin socket or switch you want.

Rather tarik many many wire to the kitchen.

Thank you weikee and ozak for advice. most appreciated.

weikee, house is not on 3 phase wiring as the house is an old house, should be on single phase I think? I wish tnb give discount on the 3 phase wiring cos I'm on a tight shoestring budget and can't afford to burst my set budget for reno alone 

ozak, just to ask, if the back extension wall is already up but yet to do wiring, then does the wiring need to be concealed within the wall?  The electrician has yet to come in because If my understanding goes like this from my dad, the electrician is not from my area.  I'm not usually around to supervise the works so my dad does the supervision daily.

Yup. That is the 1.

If you completely make new extension and wiring, It is best to use 1 10mm wiring to the kitchen. Put a DB box at the kitchen. Than distribute what ever 3pin socket or switch you want.

Rather tarik many many wire to the kitchen.