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 Power Requirement for Electric Hobs, Induction & Ceramic

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ozak
post Nov 18 2013, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 17 2013, 10:20 PM)
I have a 4 zone cooking hob (haven't install yet), the nominal power on it is 6000W

so 6000W/230V = about 25 or 26amp if I calculate right. 

in this case, you need to read the specs of the electric hob, not just the advantage of the hob you are looking at.
Always ask the salesperson questions if you are really keen to get that hob, it will be easier to tell the electrician.
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What kind of hob that suck such a high power? Restaurant use?
ozak
post Nov 18 2013, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Nov 17 2013, 12:33 PM)
one is 4100 and another one 4500.. two hobs.. one for dry n one for wet
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And you need sparate set of wire and mcb for each. No sharing for your 2 hob.
ozak
post Nov 19 2013, 09:14 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 19 2013, 01:00 AM)
lol, which restaurant uses electric hob? Usually is gas hobs for restaurants and the only electric hobs are those 1 zone portable electric induction hob for steamboat and that alone won't consume that much power.

Its a teka vitroceramic hob with 4 zones.

Induction hobs with 4 zones have connection rating of 7200W/32AMP, apparently induction hobs consume more power than vitroceramic hobs based on comparisons of the W/AMP rate for induction and vitroceramic types and this would be only if u cook on all 4 zones simultaneously like gas hobs. Just read the technical specs and you can do the comparisons.
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Can you show me where is the consume/comparison tehnical spec? I go in the website. But only state roughly spec. Even the pdf brochure.

7.2kw is killing. Unless over hundred bill everymth is kacang putih. sweat.gif
ozak
post Nov 19 2013, 03:07 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 19 2013, 01:05 PM)
Ozak:

For teka, http://www.teka.com/products/index/10#!prettyPhoto

choose the induction and vitroceramic hob (1 each) and compare them, the list will come out after you click on compare products.

Look for the maximum connection rating(W) in the electrical connection section. you can see whats the maximum rating for induction, vitroceramic. In the technical specs manual by teka, u need to look for the nominal power (W) listed, not the power rate per zone.

However, I can give another example of vitroceramic and induction hob in another website.

http://www.mayer.sg/index.php/products/hob...ic-641-b-detail  (Induction Hob)
http://www.mayer.sg/index.php/products/hob...c-641-db-detail (Vitroceramic Hob)

The induction hob states overall power of 7200W while the vitroceramic hob states 6600W

Atisha:

I've been using a 2 zone electric hob for a long time and I don't cook everyday, maybe 2-3 times a week and my electricity usage is pretty moderate for 2 pax (The bill never even exceeds 200 per month) If its for a family of 4 or 5 and need to cook 3-4 times a week, then the electricity bill may be about 400-500 per month on rough estimation? Induction hob have higher electrical power rating and the start up is slower than vitroceramic. Also, its safer than using gas because if you have old people living with you and they sometimes forget to turn off the gas, it can be a potential fire hazard in the long run.

BTW i thought induction and vitroceramic hobs fall under electric hob classification?
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That site doesn't tell me the save/efficiency or anything compare to induction. Which 1 boiling a water is faster using same power. Or the watt change to amount of joule (energy).

7.2kw or 6.6kw is consider high for me. If base on calculation bill running at 7.2kw alternate cooking for 1hr is already RM36/mth. (0.334sen)

If talk about your usage bill for 2person is consider high. That is RM100 perperson. My average usage for 2person is RM75. I m using induction cooker.

ozak
post Nov 19 2013, 04:24 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 19 2013, 03:48 PM)
Ozak: That is including the usage of other electrical appliances. i.e; computer, fan, tv, microwave oven with convection function. I only mention that the electricity bill does not exceed 200 per month for 2 pax usage but never mention the actual bill figure.  tongue.gif

On average, it is about 140-150 per month to be more precise and no change in the figures monthly either with either -/+ few dollars. I need to see how my new electricity bill will be like with my new hob and everything included when my new place is done with renovation.

Weikee:that's new to me. Usually I see energy efficient stickers on fridge,ovens and air cons but i've not really seen one that says an induction or vitroceramic hob is energy efficient unless my eyes have been looking elsewhere in the household appliance dept.  hmm.gif
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If I can remember, I never pay a bill over RM140. My bill hovering around RM65-RM75 for over 6yrs now. Yesterday get my bill RM40.80. Is the lowest in 6yrs. (It actually overcharge me in anggaran.) sad.gif I m have all the appliances too. Even a server running 7/11.

I learn to buy electrical appliances that is save energy. Saving is always in my mind.
ozak
post Nov 20 2013, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 19 2013, 05:23 PM)
The efficiency is induction  vs. Hotplate/vitro. They did many test. Electric hob is never energy saving, induction are more efficient when transfer/convert electric to heat.
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Hotplate/Vitro is an indirect type of heat transfer. So some heat lost and efficiency is lower. They is also heat waste when you lift up your cooking ware and didn't switch OFF.

Induction is a direct heat transfer using your cooking ware. So no heat waste. Once you lift up your cooking ware, the hob is switch off and the conducting is off. That save the electricity somemore.

The main waste of heat is between the hob surface and the contact surface of the cooking ware. Another is the material that is not a good heat conductor. Example like claypot.

That is why a non direct heat transfer hob like hotplate, ceramic, infra etc never energy saving as good as induction.

Next year will be probably TNB increase the tariff rate. TNB can't bear anymore the subsidy of energy. Good luck for those looking for high power sucking hob. --> https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3032372&hl=TNB
ozak
post Nov 20 2013, 02:01 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 01:35 PM)
OMG tarrif rate increase next year  rclxub.gif What's next other than the changes to be implemented in 2014?

True vitroceramic is not that energy efficient compared to induction in the varying ways as Ozak has pointed out but however appliances are never truly turned off unless the plug is off itself.

Ultimately, its up to us to conserve electricity on our own properly.
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What I mean turn OFF is for example, when you want to temporary lift up the cooking ware to do something. Than putting back to continue cook. This is very common practice in cooking. And you won't turn the hob OFF just because for a while only. But even a minute not to turn OFF a blazing at 3000watt of heat will cost you. sweat.gif

But for induction, once you lift up the cooking ware, the induction is OFF. That only left few watt to standby. Once you put back the cooking ware, the induction is continue. Without touching a single button.

Completely switch OFF is a good practice for any HOB.
ozak
post Nov 20 2013, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 03:06 PM)
I know what you mean  tongue.gif That's why I agreed with you that vitroceramic is not energy saving in the same ways as induction is, ozak  biggrin.gif Just pointing out that conservation of electricity is up to us entirely.

Regardless of the pros & cons of the hob type, it's still a matter of preference, cost factors.

So to weikee and the others, for hobs 6000-7000W range, a 4mm wiring is prefered? I was thinking about the rewiring part as my hob will need 25AMP socket, then the closest would be 30AMP since the other AMP socket would be 20AMP but would it be an overload on the whole electricity load if I pull additional line? Please give advise as I am totally clueless in this?
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You need 4mm or bigger. And a 45A 250V connection Unit. Not an ordinary socket. The hob wire is direct connect into the switch connector.

Example --> Schneider ZENcelo 45A DP Switch and 13A Switched Socket
ozak
post Nov 20 2013, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 03:58 PM)
Ozak, if I'm looking at pieno switches, then do i look out for this?

E82T15D45N
45A 250V Double Pole Switch with Neon + 13A Switched Socket with Neon

Weikee and Ozak, would it be better if I used 6mm than 4mm for 6000W use? I intend to have the main kitchen in the new back extension at my place so there's no wiring at the backyard for now except in the original kitchen space which will be converted into a dining area.
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Yup. That is the 1.

If you completely make new extension and wiring, It is best to use 1 10mm wiring to the kitchen. Put a DB box at the kitchen. Than distribute what ever 3pin socket or switch you want.

Rather tarik many many wire to the kitchen.
ozak
post Nov 21 2013, 11:46 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 08:05 PM)
ozak, just to ask, if the back extension wall is already up but yet to do wiring, then does the wiring need to be concealed within the wall?  The electrician has yet to come in because If my understanding goes like this from my dad, the electrician is not from my area.  I'm not usually around to supervise the works so my dad does the supervision daily.
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I believe you like to concealed the wiring rather expose it with trunking. The contractor just need to chisel the wall for the trunking.
ozak
post Nov 21 2013, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(heowaihong @ Nov 21 2013, 10:28 AM)
Hi Ozak, please advise how to add another DB box at kitchen? Is it possible? Cost?

Thanks
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This 1 you need to ask the electrician.

Of course it is possible to have another DB box in kitchen or anywhere.

For the cost, you have to do the calculation. Many wire running to the kitchen vs 1bigger wire + DB cost.

This post has been edited by ozak: Nov 21 2013, 11:56 AM
ozak
post Nov 21 2013, 02:37 PM

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QUOTE(heowaihong @ Nov 21 2013, 01:54 PM)
If the cost not much diff, I would rather choose to hav another DB box at kitchen, no need to hack...
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Possible cheaper too. If the wire cost is different a lot. It is left the workmanship cost.

 

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