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 Power Requirement for Electric Hobs, Induction & Ceramic

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weikee
post Nov 17 2013, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Nov 17 2013, 11:30 AM)
I assume normal 15A is not enough?

Are those 4mm cable capable of 20A?

Please advise I am not exactly sure...
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What is hobs watt rating?

4mm² can handle 20amps no problem.
weikee
post Nov 17 2013, 10:50 PM

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There is thsi "IEE wiring regulation 2001", usually follow by UK, and most commonwealth.

If I recall, 4mm cable, is 25Amps, and with ambient temperature of 35c, we need to multiply the temperature correction factor of 0.94. So is about 23.5Amps.

Below updated guide, is a very good reference for "thos" claim as profession wireman, please refer.

http://www.rsb.gov.ae/uploads/ElecWiringRegs2007Rev01.pdf Page 155.
weikee
post Nov 17 2013, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Nov 17 2013, 12:33 PM)
one is 4100 and another one 4500.. two hobs.. one for dry n one for wet
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You need minimal 4mm
weikee
post Nov 19 2013, 10:48 AM

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QUOTE(petlu28 @ Nov 19 2013, 10:13 AM)
may i know is it check power comsuption? If 4600W share power means 2300W each side 20amp enough?
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Don't get what you mean.
weikee
post Nov 19 2013, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 19 2013, 01:05 PM)
Ozak:

For teka, http://www.teka.com/products/index/10#!prettyPhoto

choose the induction and vitroceramic hob (1 each) and compare them, the list will come out after you click on compare products.

Look for the maximum connection rating(W) in the electrical connection section. you can see whats the maximum rating for induction, vitroceramic. In the technical specs manual by teka, u need to look for the nominal power (W) listed, not the power rate per zone.

However, I can give another example of vitroceramic and induction hob in another website.

http://www.mayer.sg/index.php/products/hob...ic-641-b-detail   (Induction Hob)
http://www.mayer.sg/index.php/products/hob...c-641-db-detail (Vitroceramic Hob)

The induction hob states overall power of 7200W while the vitroceramic hob states 6600W

Atisha:

I've been using a 2 zone electric hob for a long time and I don't cook everyday, maybe 2-3 times a week and my electricity usage is pretty moderate for 2 pax (The bill never even exceeds 200 per month) If its for a family of 4 or 5 and need to cook 3-4 times a week, then the electricity bill may be about 400-500 per month on rough estimation? Induction hob have higher electrical power rating and the start up is slower than vitroceramic. Also, its safer than using gas because if you have old people living with you and they sometimes forget to turn off the gas, it can be a potential fire hazard in the long run.

BTW i thought induction and vitroceramic hobs fall under electric hob classification?
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Induction with such watt are very powerful. Not sure if you have use induction before. I use a hob version, and now the external. I also use vitroceramic before. If both set at 1000watt, I finish cooking the same instant noodle on induction cooker, and the water on vitroceramic cooker only start boiling. Vitroceramic need time to heat the utensile, if cooking and transfer heat via radiant. Induction heats up almost instantaneously.

Vitroceramic can use many more difference utensile, Induction utensile are growing. I even see now clay pot for induction.

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 19 2013, 02:04 PM
weikee
post Nov 19 2013, 03:01 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 19 2013, 02:43 PM)
Weikee:  I've been using a vitroceramic hob mostly so cooking time is not slow for me if i set to the max heat on my hob. Induction on the other hand is more child friendly as it will not heat anything else other than induction based cookware which is a plus point and the minus point is induction hobs are more expensive than vitroceramic hobs. So my rationale is if both types uses electricity, then the cost factor is either a minus or plus point in my decision in choosing which hob type. In this aspect, there is no prize given to why I use vitroceramic the 2nd time round again.

However I have not cooked on an induction hob except for the ones used for steamboat outside I guess? The heat up time is almost similar though that's why I have the impression induction hob has a slightly slower cooking time but I am not really sure about the heat time 100%
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Because the steamboat restaurant are using low power induction. Imagine all running 1000Watt, and the number of pots can go up to 100, and imagine everyone switch on and use, that is about 100,000 Watt. That shop can blow up. I seen one on the table with the watt rating, about 150watt only.

Is already study made by US gov Induction is 12% more saving compare to non induction electric hob.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooking

[According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the efficiency of energy transfer for an induction cooker is 84%, versus 74% for a smooth-top non-induction electrical unit, for an approximate 12% saving in energy for the same amount of heat transfer.]
weikee
post Nov 19 2013, 05:23 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 19 2013, 03:48 PM)
Ozak: That is including the usage of other electrical appliances. i.e; computer, fan, tv, microwave oven with convection function. I only mention that the electricity bill does not exceed 200 per month for 2 pax usage but never mention the actual bill figure.  tongue.gif

On average, it is about 140-150 per month to be more precise and no change in the figures monthly either with either -/+ few dollars. I need to see how my new electricity bill will be like with my new hob and everything included when my new place is done with renovation.

Weikee:that's new to me. Usually I see energy efficient stickers on fridge,ovens and air cons but i've not really seen one that says an induction or vitroceramic hob is energy efficient unless my eyes have been looking elsewhere in the household appliance dept.  hmm.gif
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The efficiency is induction vs. Hotplate/vitro. They did many test. Electric hob is never energy saving, induction are more efficient when transfer/convert electric to heat.
weikee
post Nov 20 2013, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 01:35 PM)
OMG tarrif rate increase next year  rclxub.gif What's next other than the changes to be implemented in 2014?

True vitroceramic is not that energy efficient compared to induction in the varying ways as Ozak has pointed out but however appliances are never truly turned off unless the plug is off itself.

Ultimately, its up to us to conserve electricity on our own properly.
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12 years car to be scrap:)
weikee
post Nov 20 2013, 03:27 PM

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For 7000 watt use 6mm or 4mm ring circuit. Only 4mm are running at threshold.
weikee
post Nov 20 2013, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 03:58 PM)
Ozak, if I'm looking at pieno switches, then do i look out for this?

E82T15D45N
45A 250V Double Pole Switch with Neon + 13A Switched Socket with Neon

Weikee and Ozak, would it be better if I used 6mm than 4mm for 6000W use? I intend to have the main kitchen in the new back extension at my place so there's no wiring at the backyard for now except in the original kitchen space which will be converted into a dining area.
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Bigger the better. 6mm is good
weikee
post Nov 20 2013, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 03:58 PM)
Ozak, if I'm looking at pieno switches, then do i look out for this?

E82T15D45N
45A 250V Double Pole Switch with Neon + 13A Switched Socket with Neon

Weikee and Ozak, would it be better if I used 6mm than 4mm for 6000W use? I intend to have the main kitchen in the new back extension at my place so there's no wiring at the backyard for now except in the original kitchen space which will be converted into a dining area.
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BTW you running 3phase right? If not you already drawing 60% of the single phase capacity.
weikee
post Nov 20 2013, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 08:05 PM)
Thank you weikee and ozak for advice. most appreciated.

weikee, house is not on 3 phase wiring as the house is an old house, should be on single phase I think? I wish tnb give discount on the 3 phase wiring cos I'm on a tight shoestring budget and can't afford to burst my set budget for reno alone  sweat.gif

ozak, just to ask, if the back extension wall is already up but yet to do wiring, then does the wiring need to be concealed within the wall?  The electrician has yet to come in because If my understanding goes like this from my dad, the electrician is not from my area.  I'm not usually around to supervise the works so my dad does the supervision daily.
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Why get such high power hob if you have tight budget? 6000watt is like 1/2 the single phase load. If you have few Ac switch on and water heater running + this hob isin max ppower. Your main fuse sure blow.
weikee
post Nov 21 2013, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Nov 20 2013, 10:32 PM)
According to sales guy,  the overall or maximum power of the hob is 6000W which means using all 4 cooking zones at the same time. However each zone has different power rate for heating. For eg, Heating Element 4Rings: 2 Rings Ø180mm 1.8kW, 2 Rings Ø145mm 1.2kW. That is my understanding that I may not necessarily utilize all 4 zones at the same time for cooking everyday either so the usage is not going to be 6000W if I'm only utilizing 2 cooking zones at a time? I seldom see people utilize all 4 rings on a gas hob as usually they would utilize min 2 rings when it comes to wok frying etc.
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If you don't use 4 all the time, why buy 4 zone. Buy 3 or 2 zones better. There are hob that are wider even with 2 zones.
weikee
post Nov 22 2013, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(heowaihong @ Nov 22 2013, 11:01 AM)
So, means that there will be one thicker wire run from the original DB box to the new DB box?
Or, else where shld the input for the new DB box? FYI, my house is using underground cables by TNB...
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You need two thick wires for live and neutral, one earth, and use 4mm for earth to reduce the resistance.
weikee
post Nov 22 2013, 11:00 PM

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QUOTE(heowaihong @ Nov 22 2013, 12:00 PM)
weikee,

then, the 4mm wire sufficient for kitchen usage?

i am planning to hav:
1) one induction hob (2600W max)
2) Fridge
3) Microwave oven (small scale like 17 lt)
4) Electric oven (small scale also)
5) Exhaust fan, lighting (T5 x 2)
6) Washing machine.
7) Rice cooker
8) Slow cooker
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Only one pair of 4mm, nope, better use at least 3 direct from fuse box, minimal 2.5mm is sufficient. Hob to be independent, the rest can evenly share out. Light & exhaust fan (unless you using industrial exhaust fan) are from another light mcb, not from the socket.
weikee
post Nov 24 2013, 10:48 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Nov 24 2013, 09:44 PM)
says now I ask the electrician to use 4mm cable for both my hobs... As these two are adjacent, one in wet and one in dry... How do I know if he really pulls 2 wires to it?

Testing by using circuit breaker?
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Yes, and hope he also pull two neutral.
weikee
post Nov 24 2013, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Nov 24 2013, 10:59 PM)
One neutral for each hob? How do I know if he pulls 2?

Anyway, one MCB is for one set of wiring of which all connected devices are wired to this set of wire?
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You won't know, have to trust him.

Yes, one MCB for one set, if you trip your MCB and 5 power socket got no power, that mean one MCB are loop to 5 power points.
weikee
post Nov 30 2013, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Nov 30 2013, 01:02 PM)
Hi Weikee, btw, what do you mean by pulling two neutral actually? Are you saying one hob/oven point require two wires to the neutral point?
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Every independent point need independent Live and Neutral. Ground can be share.
weikee
post Dec 1 2013, 08:56 AM

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Neutral cannot be share, all have to be tap from the DB box.

 

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